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  • Static test my reg/rec

    Got back from a flawless 1300 mile ride, pulled into the drive and shut the bike off, went out 5 minutes later to start the bike and the battery was dead. 11.4 volts, wouldn't take a charge over night. Put good battery in and tested while running., 13-13.5 volts at idle, 15 volts at about 3000 rpm. Had just spent about 8 hours at 80 mph. 1300 miles actually. did I just fry the battery by over charging?
    Pulled the reg/rec and did diode test. Red test lead on black wire black test lead on each of three white wires. 5.3 is it ohms? on all three wires with red test lead and 0 on all three with black lead. Also tested the red wire and got the same readings. Does that sound normal?

    Thank you
    It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

  • #2
    If you need a good working rectifier from a 1600nlet me know.... Upgrading my buddies to a 2005 unit for his stereo
    LET'S RIDE

    Comment


    • MikeyC
      MikeyC commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you much! Very nice offer but I ordered one already just to be ready.

  • #3
    I am going to static check my stator tonight. Manual just says check everything else and if all is good just replace the reg/rec but I'm not sure it wasn't just time for the battery to die a natural death.
    We were running hard all week end and the wife had her heated gear plugged in and on high coming home. It was 100 degrees going down on Thursday and 50 degrees coming home on Sunday, Quite the jolt.
    It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

    Comment


    • #4
      Do you have the stock 1600 generator and rectifier Mikey? If it is stock, then it's rated at 21 amps max for 100% use. A good rule of thumb, is to keep the duty uses at less then 80% which would be about 16 amps.
      The newer bikes generator is approx. 30 amps for 100%. 80% would be 24 amps on a newer set up. When running it at it's limits, the rectifier can get extremely hot, and can burn up the regulator.
      Just curious what the watts rating of the heated gear is?

      Comment


      • MikeyC
        MikeyC commented
        Editing a comment
        I will have to check that out. Good information.

    • #5
      https://www.gerbing.com/battery-harness-installation

      Comment


      • Duke
        Duke commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks Mort, that's good information.

      • MikeyC
        MikeyC commented
        Editing a comment
        Wow, nice info. Thanks mort. So wife is the only one with heated gear and she said she only runs the vest. So pulling 4.5 amps

      • roadiemort
        roadiemort commented
        Editing a comment
        Your Welcome, key words make searches fruitful.

    • #6
      I tested the stator last night and it ohms out o.k.
      It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

      Comment


      • #7
        That's good that the stator checks out Mike. I'm not sure if a person can up date just the rectifier and running the old style stater. I have the old style stater and a later stater in my box of parts, and by looking at the windings, the conductors, "wire gauge", they seem to be the same. Checking the ohms on them, the ohms are almost the same numbers too.
        Anyways, the newer rectifier are able to handle the higher amps, and is just a though that if I ever have to replace my rectifier, I will be going with the newer style rectifier. I know the connector is different, but that's not a big deal.

        Comment


        • MikeyC
          MikeyC commented
          Editing a comment
          Ya, If the stator ever goes tits up then I will up grade to the newer charging system.

      • #8
        When I ohmed my reg/rec it came out at .530 Some info I found says it should be between .300 and .500. I wasn't sure it that was close enough but the book says at 5000rpm it should be putting out 14.7 volts. I was getting 15 v at about 3000 rpm and 16+ at higher rpm. So I will probably replace the reg/rec. I probably cooked the battery but it wasn't expanded like you would expect.
        It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

        Comment


        • davej
          davej commented
          Editing a comment
          At 16+ volt you are safe to assume the reg/rec is bad. IMO no more testing is needed

        • MikeyC
          MikeyC commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you, I didn't think it should ever hit 16v but wasn't sure at high rpm. I guess that little .03 makes a big difference.

      • #9
        https://web.archive.org/web/20180223...t/view/18/103/

        Comment


        • davej
          davej commented
          Editing a comment
          Now I overlook some of the things that have been written in some of the tech article. Here is a good example of total wrong
          information. The voltages that are quoted here are total BS.


          "With meter still attached, Start your engine and read voltage. You should be reading between 13.5VDC and 14VDC If this is true then your charge system is OK. If your charge rate is higher than 14VDC you have a possible bad regulator and your battery is in danger of being damaged from overcharging. If voltage is lower than 13.5VDC then go to step #"

        • MikeyC
          MikeyC commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes, I thought 14.7 was the norm. I thought bouncing it up to 16v was a little abby normal

        • Bikerron
          Bikerron commented
          Editing a comment
          14.7 volts is considered a bit high for me.

          At that rate the battery begins to boil off its contents.

          14.0 - 14.2 volts has always put me at ease for longevity of bulbs and battery.

      • #10
        Granted, those numbers are a bit low, but the author didn’t mention revving the engine to get a more accurate charge reading. A low idle will reflect a less than optimal reading to charge a decent battery.

        The factory service manual specifies 5000 RPM (that’s rotor speed, not crankshaft BTW -it’s geared 2:1 off the crank, so 2,500) to take a charge rate reading.

        Comment


        • MikeyC
          MikeyC commented
          Editing a comment
          Oh! Well thank you for that info on rotor vs chankshaft. I wasn't going to try for 5000 rpm

      • #11
        Thank you for a wealth of good information here, clarified several questions I was bouncing around.
        It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

        Comment


        • Duke
          Duke commented
          Editing a comment
          It shouldn't be to much longer and Mr Fusion will be taking care of all our electrical needs. Lol......

      • #12
        So, put the new reg/rec on tonight. Ohmed it first. Ohms out at 4.5 to 5.0. Engine running it shows 14.5v no matter what RPM
        It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

        Comment


        • Duke
          Duke commented
          Editing a comment
          Your good Mike!

      • #13
        sounds like a good solid charging system. Good Job!!!

        Comment


        • #14
          MickeyC posted, “Oh! Well thank you for that info on rotor vs chankshaft. I wasn't going to try for 5000 rpm

          Big gear on the crank shaft turns the smaller gear on rotor shaft at double the speed to keep the the charge rate higher since (most of) these motors spend a lot of the their time loafing along in the 2000-2500 rpm range.
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #15
            I went thru this last summer Mike and was a ground out stator on my bike so you got lucky. I purchased a good used oem reg/rec and keep in my saddlebag just in case. Would trust a good used oem over any new aftermarket unit.

            Comment


            • MikeyC
              MikeyC commented
              Editing a comment
              I thought about having an extra to take to star fest but I think the reg/recs changed in '03 or '05 and are not interchangeable.

            • Jclevesque
              Jclevesque commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes that is correct. 99-04 are the same. 05 and up are the better output ones.

            • MikeyC
              MikeyC commented
              Editing a comment
              Thank you, I thought so but didn't know when

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