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  • #21
    You mention hooking the pump to the old battery? What does that mean? Did you find a way to direct wire the pump to the battery? Looking through the service manual there appears mention of a fuse for the fuel injection system along with a relay. Have you been able to locate and test those parts? It's possible a fuel pump could have died but those are $$$ so don't want to just start throwing parts at it. Especially if you were able to get it to work.

    Looking back over the earlier part of the thread (sorry, should have done that earlier) there is talk this bike may have been damaged at some point in it's life. Does the wiring all look factory or has someone cut/fixed/replaced anything in the harness? Just trying to better understand everything or spark other ideas.


    • #22
      If the fuel pump does not come on, disconnect the fuel pump's plug next to the pump, stick a test light into the plug that is not connected to the pump.

      If it lights up when you turn the key, the pump is the problem. If not, the relay or fuse is the problem.. If the fuse is ok, the relay is bad.


      • Brad_G
        Brad_G commented
        Editing a comment
        Somewhere along the line there must be a pressure switch. When I turn the key on I wait for the pump to quit running before I hit the start button. So there has to be something in there that's measuring the fuel pressure to trigger that relay. But that's just a theoretical concept. Not sure if that switch would be in the pump or external. It's been a couple years since I had the tank off so don't remember what the connector to the pump looks like (how many wires).

    • #23
      So I did one disconnected the tank and took out the fuel pump, because my initial thought was that. Also I had to clean the tank. When I had the pump out I hooked gayer clips to it and the old battery and it worked. So I figured the pump was good.

      All the wiring is factory. I only have a power commander attached and I might just take that off once I get this running.


      • #24
        I checked the fuse and it is good and I connected the pump to the old battery again and i heard it kick on. I'm not to sure where the relay for it is tho.


        • Brad_G
          Brad_G commented
          Editing a comment
          I'm not entirely certain. There are a couple under the left cover. On the right is the starter relay but I think you mentioned that you checked everything there. The service manual just kind of gives general locations (center of bike, headlight, etc. which isn't terribly helpful).

      • #25
        Yea so the inner one I believe is the relay however the service manual I have, it says check ohms, does not match for what I have
        I'll add a photo so show. Not to sure if it's the wrong manual or not.
        Attached Files


        • #26
          See photos here


          • #27
            love this site

            go to the picture in the last post reply for the service manual picture of the fuses:


            the fuse box is under the left cover. The main and fuel fuses are under the right cover


            • #28
              Thank you but I checked them all both sides and the fuses are all good. I think it may be the relay and I was trying to troubleshoot it but the schematic and plug do not match. Any oñe have ideas on this before I order the relay and it doesn't fix it?


              • #29
                knock yourself out:


                Edit: the beauty of the Fuelies is that we have the ECU. You got it started with carb cleaner. The ECU should have thrown a code for the fuel system, recognizing it wasn't providing the fuel - that's how it's supposed to work anyway. Did you happen to get a code?

                Edit #2: above link will stop working 10/13 12P, so if you want a copy, catch it before it disappears


                • Ciccone1234
                  Ciccone1234 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Missed it but I tried getting to the diagnostic page on the gage and couldn't get the bike to get me there.

              • #30
                This is totally grasping at straws, but as EnergyGuy said above, like most modern cars it should throw a code if something is off. On cars they can have "pending" codes which are stored but don't actually trip the CEL (check engine light). For giggles I'd follow the service manual and put it in diagnostic mode and see if it happens to show something. Not out much to look.


                • #31
                  I couldn't get to the diagnostic page on the bike (hold up arrow and reset and turn bike on... Wait 8 sec) did not work. Any other ways to get there or maybe like I said earlier I may have the wrong book...


                  • Brad_G
                    Brad_G commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Well that's the same thing my service manual says. The kill switch needs to be in off position. It also mentions unplugging the fuel pump.

                • #32
                  I'll check that. Thank you. I'm going to run through all the wires. As of right now I checked the relay and it shot good, the diapers I have to check and then ohm the wires. Hopefully it is as easy as a wire under the tank


                  • Brad_G
                    Brad_G commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Good luck. Wiring/electrical issues can drive a person to drink (or at least I'll use that as my excuse). But I'd also suggest stepping away from time to time. Sometimes we get overly focused on what we think is the problem and completely miss what is really broken. Sometimes we need to remember the KISS rules.

                    Speaking of KISS. I believe EnergyGuy verified that the fuel pump will not run if the kill switch is off. Of course it won't crank either. But just keep in mind there are a few safety switches along the way that also come into play.

                • #33
                  Alright guys so I ran another diagnostic and I have some photos. I also checked the relays and all went well. All safety switched work as they should but some of the diagnostic I either could not do/not figure out or don't have what is needed to test.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  • #34
                    d:70 - hell if I know. service manual only references control numbers for that diagnostic code and I don't have a list of those.

                    d:62 Malfunction history code erasure
                    • No history 0 —
                    • History exists • Displays the total number of
                    malfunctions, including the
                    current malfunction, that
                    have occurred since the
                    history was last erased.
                    (For example, if there have
                    been three malfunctions,
                    “03” is displayed.)
                    To erase the history, set the
                    engine stop switch from
                    “ stop” to “run ”.

                    d:55 Decompression solenoid:
                    open circuit detected.
                    • Open circuit in wire harness.
                    • Defective decompression solenoid.
                    • Malfunction in ECU.
                    • Improperly installed decompression solenoid

                    d:09 Fuel system voltage
                    (battery voltage)
                    Approximately 12.0 Set the engine stop switch
                    to “run ”, and then compare
                    with the actually measured
                    battery voltage. (If the battery
                    voltage is lower, perform

                    d:04 Intake air pressure Displays the intake air pressure.
                    Set the engine stop switch
                    to “run ”, and then push the
                    start switch “start ”. (If the display
                    value changes, the
                    performance is OK.)


                    • #35
                      I have the service manual and I see what it says but when checking relays and wires everything is good. Even ohming sensors are good. Also not sure why the battery isn't reading in the test. Any thoughts on that?


                      • Boots
                        Boots commented
                        Editing a comment
                        On the battery test (d:09), did you place the stop switch in the run position? And, if it was already in the run position, did you move it to stop and then back to run?
                        Also, there are two fuses ON the starter relay; one of those is needed for the fuel system. Did you check those two fuses?
                        2) Have you disconnected and reconnected the cables to the starter relay?

                    • #36
                      Does your fuel pump prime when you turn on the key? That's what that is reading is the voltage to your fuel pump, and it's indicating 0v. if you are getting voltage to your fuel pump, it would seem to me that the ECU is not reading that, and that is where your issue is.


                      • #37
                        The pump does not prime. Also when diagnostic mode you unplug it. Should I plug it back once in diagnostic mode? The thing is I don't want to shotgun a ECU or fuel pump. They r both stupid money.

                        Don't know if this is common but also noticed when cranking the bike the main cables to the batter and starter relay smoke? Probably time to upgrade them.


                        • EnergyGuy
                          EnergyGuy commented
                          Editing a comment
                          I'm not sure how it's reading the voltage for that circuit, but I would assume that the fuel pump doesn't need to be plugged in for that to work correctly since that's what the book tells you. You say that your fuel pump fuse is good and that the relay tests good. Do you have battery voltage coming out of the fuel pump plug? If you do, your ECU is not reading it - take that road. If you don't then the ECU is reading correctly and there's a short/broken wire from the relay connection out to the fuel pump plug and there's no voltage getting to the fuel pump. if you can find out where the ECU reads that voltage then that cuts your problem area down to between the relay and that connection.

                      • #38
                        Yeah I'd be apprehensive of deviating from the service manual. As you say, don't want to toast high $$ parts and create more uncertainty than what you have.

                        Cables should not smoke. Many here have upgraded to heavier cables with better cranking speed.


                        • #39
                          I tested the wires to the fuel pump to the relay and ground. They were good. I verified the relay multiple times and it is good. The pump wires has very low volts coming off when u start the bike I would say it is the ECU but I do not have anything to troubleshoot the ECU besides the wire diagram and that really isn't much help to troubleshoot a computer I don't think.


                          • #40
                            Where are you located? Anyone you know with a similar bike?

                            I know on cars the ECU has to be programmed to the vehicle but I'm not sure if bikes follow that trend. If you knew of someone with a similar bike you could put your ECU in their bike and see if the pump primes etc. I'd be hesitant to throw a good ECU in your bike in case there is something else that caused the issue in the first place. At least you wouldn't be throwing $$ at it.

                            You mentioned testing the fuses in a previous post. There are a couple at the starter relay. Have you checked the voltage at those fuses? Just wondering as you talked about smoke at the battery wire if the starter relay is providing power to the fuel pump circuit (sorry if you've already tested this and I missed it).


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