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  • Barnett upgrade

    Just installed the Barnett clutch spring upgrade and have a simple question. Does freeplay or any adjustment needed at cable or lever after the install? It is raining here and wondering if it would need adjusting? Looking forward to riding with it to see how it grabs. One thing I never noticed is when I drained the oil in 2 windshield washer jugs it had near exact the same amount from draining the tank and one with the engine oil...never noticed before. Bike sat for 24hrs before i drained.

    Friction plates all checked out good. Between 2.98 to 3.12mm which are within specs. Bearing was like new in the old pressure plate. Nothin was out of line or smelled burnt or nothing. Only thing was that friggin son of a gun old gasket on the cover. Near nothing was left on the engine case but the chrome cover was such a pain in the balls even using rolok disks. It has small lines in running from inside to outside seemed rough. But got it all an hour later. 3hr job with cleanup.

  • #2
    Service manual has the initial setup for the clutch pull arm so it’s clocked correctly on the shaft splines before installing the clutch cable.

    With your thumb, rotate the pull arm counterclockwise (arrow) until you feel resistance and measure the gap (a). By doing so, you’re removing the free play in the linkage. Should be 1 1/4”. If it is incorrect, re clock the arm on the splines.

    Then set your free play with the cable adjuster.
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      What Ron said, and, bottom out the lever adjuster first, and do as much cable take up at the center adjuster as you can.


      Wherever you go in life, ride there if at all possible.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Ron and JD. I will check out this evening. I have been adjusting my clutch this way with lever adjuster backed all the way to the lever and adjusting with adjuster along the frame. Similar to my XS 650 with fine tuning at the end with lever adjuster.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Jclevesque View Post
          Just installed the Barnett clutch spring upgrade and have a simple question. Does freeplay or any adjustment needed at cable or lever after the install? It is raining here and wondering if it would need adjusting? Looking forward to riding with it to see how it grabs. One thing I never noticed is when I drained the oil in 2 windshield washer jugs it had near exact the same amount from draining the tank and one with the engine oil...never noticed before. Bike sat for 24hrs before i drained.

          Friction plates all checked out good. Between 2.98 to 3.12mm which are within specs. Bearing was like new in the old pressure plate. Nothin was out of line or smelled burnt or nothing. Only thing was that friggin son of a gun old gasket on the cover. Near nothing was left on the engine case but the chrome cover was such a pain in the balls even using rolok disks. It has small lines in running from inside to outside seemed rough. But got it all an hour later. 3hr job with cleanup.
          Thanks for the pics, i always appreciate when people do that so those of us that haven't done those repairs yet get a look at what they are getting into. You may want to try a better brand of beer though...



          2012 Road Star Silverado S

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          • #6
            A note to add for the real high milage clutches is to examine the clutch basket for worn grooves from the clutch plates. They can be dressed up with a file. Sure makes for finding neutral hard when the plates won’t spread (clutch drag) and release when they’re stuck in those valleys. Same for the inner clutch boss.

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            • #7
              Thanks D-Fresh it is an easy upgrade. Was tricky trying to get the cover off. Had to remove the floor board and wiggle around the exhaust header. I am gonna stick to that beer low on carbs lol.

              Ron I did not see any grooves or there were very minimal on the basket. I have never had problems finding neutral always a light tap and in neutral. Dont have a pic with the basket empty sorry.

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              • Bikerron
                Bikerron commented
                Editing a comment
                Was just a comment for anyone following that’s never been in there.

              • Jclevesque
                Jclevesque commented
                Editing a comment
                For sure Ron i agree. It would of stuck out at me if something would of been there. I checked all plates at 5 spots on each. Was surprised to see still a fair bit of material on some. My bike has 93000kms...58000 miles. I was also looking at the oem pressure plate bearing....looked fine and I didnt see a need to replace Barnett bearing as some have suggested. I will post a pic of it below.

            • #8
              Pic of OEM assembly removed.

              Comment


              • #9
                I’ve never compared the pull shaft bearing of a Barnett and OEM, but the OEM appears to be sporting more bearings.

                Comment


                • Doc_V
                  Doc_V commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Damn, that bearing has seen better days. I guess this is what Shores was talking about. he's right, I think I'd replace the Barnett bearing before installing too, or have they since rectified this with a better bearing?

              • #10
                I thought i counted 10 balls in both units. Is that busted on old? Maybe they upgraded.

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                • #11
                  I have done some searching. First pic is the plate stamped SR-2 from Venture riders has 9 balls. Second pic from RS Warriors site
                  has 10 balls. Must of been changed along the way. I am not concerned on what I have installed.

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    Here is a pic of mine from the install. The bearing looks like it has a sealed end cap or something on it vs other pics above.

                    Comment


                    • Doc_V
                      Doc_V commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I sure hope they'd use a sealed bearings. Hardened ball bearings bouncing around inside your motor and transmission would make one hell of a mess if it ever failed like the one above.

                    • Bikerron
                      Bikerron commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Did you happen to notice if the bearing had a shield on both sides? I’m thinking the clutch side was left open to allow oil in to lubricate, otherwise, if it’s sealed on both sides, you’re left to what ever amount of grease was packed in it during manufacturing.

                    • Jclevesque
                      Jclevesque commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Ron it is not a dust seal similar to wheel bearings from what I saw. Oil can still get in. I didnt notice on the other side. Geez should of taken more pics....not much of a shutterbug lol

                  • #13
                    I took it out for an hour last night and works great! Tried out in fifth full throttle up hill and no slip. Nice and smooth and almost feels happier really...i know sounds weird but hey maybe it was just me lol.

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      I just did mine a couple of weeks ago as well, rides like a new bike and pulls really hard now when I shift to second. Used to slip there pretty bad.

                      Comment

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