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Smooth handlebars with oem clamps?

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  • Smooth handlebars with oem clamps?

    Are you able to put smooth handlebars on a Roadie. I've only ever replaced the handlebars with other knurled handlebars. Will the OEM handlebar clamps tighten down enough on smooth (non-knurled) handlebars to keep them from moving?

  • #2
    Are they tall handlebars?

    Comment


    • 4thRoadstar
      4thRoadstar commented
      Editing a comment
      They are 12 inch Apes

  • #3
    I have drilled a hole thru the bar and into the base of the riser and installed a split pin thru the hole to stabilize the bars to the riser put the top back on the riser and it will never move. Just drill the hole the correct size for the split pin.

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    • #4
      Taller bars put more leverage on them, making it easier for unwanted movement, knurled or not. Here's the test: Get the bars on there and cranked down as tight as you dare (without stripping the risers). Sit in the seat with both feet on the ground, grab the bars where your hands would normally be, and pull towards you. If you can move them, they ain't tight enough. Think about the force exerted on them in a panic stop, inertia plus all your body weight. That's a lot of force, and you damn sure don't want them moving forward on you in a panic stop situation. I have seen it happen and things can get ugly real quick. Ape hangers look really cool, but they have some disadvantages that may or may not outweigh your decision to run them. Besides the aforementioned, if you do a lot of cold weather riding with them, your armpits will get really cold. Then, there's the cost: Often, the price of extended cables and brake lines will exceed the price of the handlebars. You'll probably need new grips too. You can spend as little as $10 on those, or as much as $100's. It all comes down to how bad you want them and what compromises you are willing to make to run them. davej's idea will help but does possibly damage the structural integrity of the bars, plus you better make damn sure you have them at the angle you want before you drill that hole. Typically, the rise of the bars should be the same angle as the fork tubes. I know a lot of guys like to run them pushed way forward, they may think that looks cool (I don't), plus it gives inertia a "head start" if you get into a panic stop situation.

      Some things to think about before you commit to this. Good luck.

      Comment


      • #5
        Use a cold chisel on the bars to put a whole crap load of raised cuts that will add friction.

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