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  • Removing front wheel bearings

    Hey all, what's up? I just got back from hiking the Himalayas, where I volunteered at an orphanage and taught children how to ride and service their Roadstars. Now that I'm back and I'm getting an early start on some spring maintenance. I'm trying to replace my front wheel bearings but having a heck of a time removing the old ones. I first tried a long punch from the backside, but couldn't get purchase on the bearing lip. Next I got a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer from the local Autozone tool loaner program, but it just slips out. I've tried using a box wrench to tighten the adjuster while holding the tool with my other hand, would it make much difference if I used another wrench to hold the tool while tightening or is it just the wrong tool? I've also thought about using a propane torch to warm up the wheel and hopefully expand it some. Any other thoughts or suggestions? Do I need to order a special tool? I'm sure there's got to be a simple way to do it, I just haven't figured it out.

    Thx for the input.

    Doc_V


  • #2
    On my bearing remover/slide hammer tool I have to use two wrenches to tighten enough to yank. That being said I can oly get my swing arm bearing about 1/3 inch up out of tube...so I ordered a 24 inch cold chisel. Tired of yanking...gonna get to pounding.
    "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

    Comment


    • Jaybo
      Jaybo commented
      Editing a comment
      Good plan!!

  • #3
    Welcome back Doc. Sorry no advice on the wheel bearings! Ps dont forget to checkin on the scavenger hunt.

    Comment


    • Doc_V
      Doc_V commented
      Editing a comment
      Thx JoBlowShmo!

  • #4
    Welcome back. We need to talk.Sounds like your experience was great sorry no idea about your wheel bearing.

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    • Doc_V
      Doc_V commented
      Editing a comment
      Thx Ken, PM Sent.

  • #5
    Welcome back

    Comment


    • Doc_V
      Doc_V commented
      Editing a comment
      Thx brainmac!

  • #6
    Propane torch may help facilitate this. So, what's the correct jetting for a Roadstar at 8000' elevation? Is this one of those, "Well, it should need bearings at X amount of miles?" or did it actually need them? With your luck working on shit you'll probably need an entire front wheel before it's all over with. May be best to defer to a specialist before it gets to that point.

    P.S. You were missed. There was even a thread started questioning your absence. Many guesses were proffered, but I think I came the closest. I said you were hiking the Andes searching for The Abominable Snowman.

    Comment


    • #7
      Thx LugNut, the tool doesn't look like it was designed for two wrenches and I don't want to break the damn thing. Guess I'll have to be extra gentle.

      FatherPB, since parts are hard to come by, and the UPS services is spotty as best up there, we had to make due and keep it simple. I taught them my "fuel line over the Baron's PMS knob" trick. They brazed a nipple onto the stock PMS, then slipped some dried yak urethra over it. That way they can reach down while riding, and enrichen or lean out the fuel mixture, depending on if they're ascending or descending the mountains.

      As for the rest, thanks guys, I'll shoot you a PM in next day or so.

      BTW, whats with the image limit? Says I've used 47gig and I'm 8 megs over the limit when trying to post a photo?

      Comment


      • Father Pobasturd
        Father Pobasturd commented
        Editing a comment
        Hey, you didn't happen to bring back any of that dried Yak urethra, did you? I have heard it can be used as a pain reducer for strangulated testicles.

      • Doc_V
        Doc_V commented
        Editing a comment
        Sorry FP, we got caught in an avalanche on the way back down the mountain. Fortunately we were able to duck behind a big bolder before it hit and that left us a tiny pocket just big enough that I could reach for my pack. We were stuck there for a week so I ate the remaining dried yak urethra for sustenance. ...I'll get you next time.

    • #8
      Welcome back Doc. It might be worth looking into Imgur to host your photos. Then no worry about size or limits. It's what several of us have started using in the Scavenger Hunt thread.

      Comment


      • Doc_V
        Doc_V commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks Brad, good to know. In the mean time, I'll look into the image limit issue.

    • #9
      Doc. You were greatly missed.
      I will not apologize for being white, being straight or for loving this country.

      Comment


      • #10
        Originally posted by Doc_V View Post
        Thx LugNut, the tool doesn't look like it was designed for two wrenches and I don't want to break the damn thing. Guess I'll have to be extra ?
        sure there is not two flat spots on te puller where you could slide a crescent wrench or open end wrench on to tighten down?

        "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

        Comment


        • #11
          Beat mine out with a long punch. Have to keep moving point of contact around the bearing with each blow. Beating one spot will jam it. Used large socket to put new ones in after starting with a piece of 1x4.

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          • #12
            Throw the new bearings in the freezer and they will will go in much easier!
            2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

            Comment


            • Doc_V
              Doc_V commented
              Editing a comment
              Yep, that one makes life a bit easier. Always a good tip.

          • #13
            The trick is to cock the spacer as much as possible i put a long pry bar inside the spacer and cock it to one side then use a drift with a good flat end on it, file it if you have to, then cock the spacer to the other side and keep cocking the spacer to opposite sides and smacking the bearing. once you get it out the other one is easy, the spacer will move quite a bit if you really lever it, there is more than enough room to get a drift on the edge

            Comment


            • #14
              Hey Doc! Welcome back. Removing wheel bearings. get a grade 8 pan head bolt where the head is just to large to slip thru the center of the bearing. grind it back keeping the angle on the head so it will just make it thru the hole. Hacksaw a slot down thru the head and part way down the shaft (maybe 1/4 inch) Slide it thru the bearing head first and from the other side use something that resembles a flat screwdriver and put it in the slot. Try to get it right at the edge of the bearing and drive away. Had a bearing froze into a rear wheel and damaged a blind hole bearing pulling tool, tried a slide hammer to no avail, but the bolt and drive method took it right out with 3 to 5 good blows.
              Life is short, eat dessert first----Unknown

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              • #15
                by the way. 2020 NW Starfest is in Sweet Home, Oregon. You missed a really good one last year.
                Life is short, eat dessert first----Unknown

                Comment


                • Doc_V
                  Doc_V commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Hell Mikey, my bike *still* hasn't been the same ever since last time!

              • #16
                Glad to see you back Doc, you were greatly missed here on the forum. Just as i'm sure you are greatly missed now by the people in the Himalayas...
                2012 Road Star Silverado S

                Comment


                • Doc_V
                  Doc_V commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Thanks D-Fresh!

              • #17
                Originally posted by Lug Nut View Post
                . . . Tired of yanking...gonna get to pounding.
                That's what she said.

                (I'm immature, I get it. Couldn't resist. )

                Just a dude, playing a dude, disguised as another dude.

                Comment


                • #18
                  Doc
                  Thought you were lost.

                  Comment


                  • Doc_V
                    Doc_V commented
                    Editing a comment
                    ​Ha... Thanks Duke. I'm never lost; from time to time I just unexpectedly find myself in new places. ​

                • #19
                  So I ended up using a pair of pliers to gently hold the bearing puller tool in place while tightening it with an open end wrench to get it good and snug; but before that, I used a propane torch to heat up the hub and that combo did the trick.

                  Once I got a good pull and moved the bearing a little, I could finally move the spacer to one side and that gave me a much better lip to get a grip on. From that point on it was pretty easy and the other side came right out without the spacer in the way. [I used a torch on that side as well.] And yes, I did put the new bearings in the freezer before hand, they went in smoothly using a loaner bearing press tool from my local Autozone.

                  As always, the right tools make all the difference.

                  Rides safe.

                  Doc_V

                  Comment


                  • #20
                    Originally posted by Doc_V View Post

                    As always, the right tools make all the difference.

                    Doc_V
                    That's what she said!
                    2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

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