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Brake Line Replacement - Front Upper

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  • Brake Line Replacement - Front Upper

    First, I saw this topic mentioned during handlebar replacement but didn't see the specifics I'm looking for.

    I have a 2012 Silverado S - bought it new in 2013 (or 2014?) and have put around 12,000 miles on it. I'm just now looking at making my first mods as I've recently started doing longer trips (~1,500 miles or so a trip) and have noticed a few shortcomings for me as a taller rider (6' 5").

    I'm looking to install the factory Yamaha handlebar risers. When I mounted the new risers and went to put the stock handlebars into the riser grooves the front brake line was pulled so tight I couldn't actually get the bars in place and rotated downwards so they'd be in final riding position. I pulled it back apart and put the stock risers back on to try again another day.

    I'm expecting I need to replace the top brake line with one that's a few inches longer. I've never replaced a brake line and don't understand the process and how to select the right parts to do the job. Reading other threads it seems people have been successful at this and it's not too difficult a job. I'd appreciate pointers on how to find the correct brake line replacement (+4 inches to stock?) and how to disconnect it from the master cylinder and front splitter without spilling fluid everywhere.

    Thanks in advance,
    GFunk

  • #2
    Did you try rerouting it behind the triple trees?

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    • #3
      By the way from Sturgis Mi

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      • #4
        Thanks Jlb! The current routing is from the grip, to in front of the handlebar, to between the triple clamp and the windscreen (left of the right fork), to the front splitter.

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        • #5
          I just realized - you're asking if I tried routing it from the front of the forks to behind them. No, I didn't. From the first glance it looked most efficient to keep the current path since the splitter is mounted in front of the forks. Does it work to gain an inch or two just by rerouting?

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          • 2time
            2time commented
            Editing a comment
            I have used the same risers with stock bars and rerouting the brake line behind the triple tree worked for me. It’s worth a try.

        • #6
          Ok, I went out this evening and I think I see what you are saying about rerouting. Is it easiest to disconnect the brake line, reroute, then reconnect - or remove the brake handle/master cylinder, reroute, then remount?

          If the best is to disconnect the line - what's the best method and what can I expect?

          Thanks again,
          GFunk

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          • #7
            Easiest is to remove the upper tree, reroute the line, then replace the upper tree. That way you don’t have to disconnect hour upper line, and bleed your brakes because nothing was opened up to allow air into the lines
            owning a motorcycle is not a matter of life or death, it is much more important than that

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            • #8
              Got it! Thanks for the tips, guys.

              I ended up removing the brake handle from the bars (removed the brake light switch from the lever assembly since I couldn't figure out how to unplug the connector), unscrewing the right mirror from the brake lever assembly, then took the lever assembly with hose attached through the front of the front forks and back up by the tank to bring the hose to the tank side of the triple tree. This gave me the extra inch or so of hose to install the risers. Note - I had to pull the headlights assembly forward to give me enough gap to get the lever assembly through.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	Brake line reroute.jpg
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              Once installed, I noticed the clutch and throttle cables stretched too tight during full right or left lock on the handlebars, so I ended up disconnecting the cables and routing them through the forks the same way. The throttle cables I fought with to disconnect/reconnect at the grip assembly but the clutch cable was easy once I popped off the spring loaded part down by the actual clutch housing. That gave me plenty of cable slack to make it easy work up by the grip.

              Risers installed but before I rerouted the clutch/throttle cables:

              Click image for larger version

Name:	After risers installed.jpg
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ID:	79632

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