Rear brake

[6175biker]

I've noticed the rear brake on my Roadie is getting soft, pedal travel has increased and I doubt you could lock up the rear wheel even if you wanted to. The first thing I'm going to check is the rear pads and the caliper, brake fluid level is good and there aren't any leaks. If the caliper and pads check OK, then I'm moving on to the master cylinder. Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and what the fix was...

[Doc_V]

Time to flush the old fluid and bleed. Even if you're pads were worn to metal, you should still be able to lock up the rear brake; in fact it'd be even easier. Brake fluid is "hygroscopic" which means it sucks moisture out of the air. Your fluid is tired and you likely have water and air bubbles in the line. And because water boils at a much lower temp than brake fluid, it expands and turns to steam, creating bubbles. No need to mess with the master cylinder. If your pads are worn past the wear mark, then replace them too.

[6175biker]

OK thanks, I'll give it a try and see what happens...

[Jclevesque]

+1 on Doc’s suggestion. Start with a flush and take it from there. I rebuilt my entire front and rear calipers along with new stainless braided lines. I did not have to fiddle with master cylinders.

Piece of cake. Simply take an old plastic bottle punch a hole in the cap and run a 5/16” line from the bleed screw to the bottle. Empty you master cylinder and I have used a large clean syringe to get the old fluid out. Replace with new dot 4 and build up pressure on pedal and keep there. While keeping pressure crack bleed screw to push old fluid out. Then tighten bleed screw and release pedal. Repeat until clear new fluid comes out and keep and eye to make sure you top up fluid in the reservoir at all times. Hope this helps out. I do this alone but you can have someone help you applying pressure on brake.

[Questcap]

I've experienced some amazing results just changing out some guys' brake fluids front and rear... It can get nasty, and braking can seriously suffer for it. Do a fluid change first... might just be all it needs!

[Shores]

Did mine two days ago and it made a big difference. It was probably only a year old.

[Jclevesque]

It sure does stink up the garage too!

[Lug Nut]

I flush out my brake fluid every 2 years and use Prestone Synthetic DOT 4.....

[6175biker]

Thanks for all the input, I flushed out the old fluid and bled the rear brake and it did improve but still didn't feel quite right. I ended up adjusting the pedal height which meant I also had to adjust the brake light switch, all this combined got me the pedal feel and stopping power I was looking for....

[Chromepony]

I love it when a plan comes together.

[Doc_V]

Glad to hear it worked out.

[Jaybo]

The old rubber lines get soft too, braided lines will really make a difference. It was one of my very first mods.

[Picacho1]

Gents, suggestions on brake pads...need to change mine out. Not a fan of amazon or ebay...

[Brian Schenk]

I just redid my rear brake and used ceramic pads. I don't like them. will give them a little longer to break in but think i will go back to sintered steel or semi metallic. They will wear the rotor faster but stop better in all conditions, wet or cold weather I think the pedal is firmer with metallic to. I use organic on the front as I don't use front brake that much mostly holding on hills. First bikes didn't have front brakes so got used to not using it.

[Jclevesque]

I had recently rebuilt my entire front and rear brakes with new stainless lines and went with organic pads. The p.o. had HH pads it chewed up the rear rotor. I use both brakes and like them so far. Only issue is more dust now but it is cheaper than rotors.

[Brian Schenk]

I had a stainless line let go on the HD It was maybe 11 years old and I could not see it had cracks in it because of the mesh. Other than that I think they are the way to go.

[Jclevesque]

The lines are new OEM / Russel not too worried about it.

[Duke]

I use the front brakes way more than the back brakes. Never have changed the front pad, but had to replace the rear pads once in 40k miles. For me, organic pads are the way to go with these cruisers. If I were to speed thru the corners and on the brakes a lot, then I'd be thinking about sinister brake pads.
Thats just me and the way I ride.

[MikeyC]

Wow, I use way to much brake, front pads every 10k , I'm pretty light on the rear. Ask my Daughter, she will give you the honest truth on my braking habits. It's come up a time or two.

[Doc_V]

I use the front brakes way more than the back brakes. Never have changed the front pad, but had to replace the rear pads once in 40k miles. For me, organic pads are the way to go with these cruisers. If I were to speed thru the corners and on the brakes a lot, then I'd be thinking about sinister brake pads.
Thats just me and the way I ride.

I do speed through corners and I'm on the brakes a *lot* in the hills and mountains. Was just carving up a twisty mountain road near my home yesterday, and it felt great. I prefer organic for it's linear feel, semi sintered is good too, but I'll never run HH sintered pads again, they chew up rotors WAY too fast, and them rotors ain't cheap. But more importantly they lock up even easier and that's dangerous. I locked up my rear in a parking lot yesterday, because of an unmarked speed bump, and I was only going 10 MPH. It left about a five foot skid mark too.

Assuming you've flushed and bled your brakes, if the organic pads aren't stopping you well enough, it's better to invest in some advanced riding courses and buy yourself one of those hand exercisers. Also, Brian, you *really* need to be using your front brakes way more. Otherwise is way too easy to lock up your rear in a panic stop and loose control. The rear only provides about 40% or the total braking, The fronts do all the heavy lifting with 60%. In emergency situations you should be using both.



P.S. Because these bikes weigh so damn much, it's good to invest in some racing brake fluid, with a higher boiling point, because if you ever find yourself riding down a big mountain road, you will eventually boil your brakes and get brake fade, which can be pretty unnerving.

[Picacho1]

THANKS Guys, good intel is key to winning. Appreciate your tips. RJ

[Horsehammerr]

Was having NO PRESSURE to my rear brakes. So I changed the Master Cylinder . Now I can't get rid of Spongy Brake and not able to Lockup my rear brake. HELP !!! Calipers Bled out very clean , but I still have very Spongy peddle . Replacement Master was Dry inside .

[Billdozer]

you need to bench bleed the master cylinder. even though yo do not see it at the caliper its still trapped in the master.

[Homerjfong]

I would recommend getting a vacuum bleeder. It makes the job much easier and you can do it yourself. They're like $25 off Amazon or harbor freight. You will, of course, need an air compressor. Plus you can use it on your car(s) as well.

[roadiemort]

Was having NO PRESSURE to my rear brakes. So I changed the Master Cylinder . Now I can't get rid of Spongy Brake and not able to Lockup my rear brake. HELP !!! Calipers Bled out very clean , but I still have very Spongy peddle . Replacement Master was Dry inside .

Check that your brake line hose hasn't collapsed from the exhaust heat over time Chuck.