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Cheap doesn't mean good

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  • Cheap doesn't mean good

    So i bought this 2008 Roadstar about a year ago now for $1,200 bucks it only had 3600 miles on it. The bike was in bad shape but had tons of potential. After getting the bike home from a 8 hour drive towing it. I started to pull everything apart and really go over the bike. It had so many issues from wiring, exhaust leaks, hard starts, no starts, lights not working, and now i cant go past quarter throttle before the engine chokes out. I took the tank off pulled the fuel pump and tried to clean the tank but it has so much rust in it. It ran good for about 2 days before the fuel pump was clogged again. So i need a tank it looks like and hopefully not a fuel pump too.

  • #2

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    • #3
      Cheap doesn't mean bad. I bought a one owner 28k me 2000 Roadstar with tons of good parts/mods from the original owner. No dents/scrapes..never been down...perfect shape just dirty and speedo didn't work. All service records etc. Ran vin check came back fine. Got it for $1500...cleaned it up and did All the maintenance and riding it right now.

      price has little to do with "good" I would never ever NEVER buy a basket cas old metric bike for so much as $1. Would not waste time with a bike that needed wiring of ANY kind...serious mechanical issues...or significant cosmetic issues. After you done fucking around with fixing what needs done you have a slightly better looking/running basket case that is worth $2-3k if it has a clean title and nothing shows on vin check.

      Roadstars are the absolute best valie for a big Vtwin cruiser...m when they are stockish and not messed with too much. I wouldn't dream of spending my time and thousands of $ fixing a bike I couldn't sell for more than. $3k....not when you can buy a NICE bike for $1500-3000.

      my .02. It's a good lesson.....don't try to polish a turd and don't spend time/money repairing a bike when you can get a great running bike cheap.

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      • Smalls
        Smalls commented
        Editing a comment
        That is the problem now

      • Smalls
        Smalls commented
        Editing a comment
        Roadiemort I thought about the liner but wasn’t sure if it would work since I have to take the fuel pump out and it won’t be able to hold liquid

      • Brian Schenk
        Brian Schenk commented
        Editing a comment
        I have to say that would depend on your motivation and what you enjoy doing. I have bought basket bikes just for the enjoyment of building it from the ground up. There is a lot of satisfaction in doing it yourself and getting it right.

    • #4
      Rust is a real killer in fuel systems.

      There are a couple of ways to clean the rust out of the tank. I restore old metric bikes from the 1960's and older and have cleaned many a tank. Seeing that you have a 2008, although the tank may be quite rusty, it is no where as bad as some the tanks I have dealt with so my options should work quite well.

      1st try Metal Rescue. This stuff is amazing. It is environmentally safe and safe on your skin. It doesn't hurt paint or rubber or plastic. You can put it in your tank while leaving your fuel pump in. Not cheap, about $25.00 a gallon but worth it. I would suggest that you get 3 gallons so that you can put the tank in all kinds of positions so it all soaks. Good thing is that it is reusable. I drain it out in a bucket with cloth over the top to filter out the crap, then rinse the tank out with a hose and inspect. If needed, I pour the use filtered metal rescue back in for another soak session.

      Once the inside of the tank looks good, I would pull the filter/pump out and soak it it the metal rescue and clean it well. In the mean time, since you can't fill the tank with fresh gas to stop the rust flash, you can pour some oil in the tank and swish it around so that all the inside gets an oil covering. Once the filter/pump is cleaned , you can rinse the oil out of the tank with some gas to clean the oil coating out.

      If that doesn't do the trick, the next thing you can try is muriatic acid. This is a last resort and should only be done with extreme care! We can come back and visit this option if all else fails.

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      • Smalls
        Smalls commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you for the advice your a real MVP

    • #5
      Also, the plastic fuel pump housing can be taken apart to get to the fuel strainer within.

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      • #6
        hii i have the same bike and i have to tow it so which trailer size is best for this? also can will i able to use that trailer for roadside service near me?

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        • #7
          Back when I had no money I would just wash them good with vinegar to get the gas out and put a couple hand's full of bb's and shake the snot out of it. It really cleaned them out pretty good. I always used NAPA gas tank sealer. It is one step and have used coated tanks for years with no peeling or chipping.

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          • #8
            So this is what I got out of the fuel tank after the first 2 cleans. After I put everything back together it runs worse then before. I can’t give it any throttle now. I ordered a quatom fuel pump. Waiting for that to arrive and hopefully it solves all my issues. The tank looks good on the inside now thanks grubsie
            Attached Files

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            • #9
              If u replace the fuel pump....use OEM Yamaha or you will likely have pump problems quickly....like it dying after a month
              ....

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              • #10
                I have seen bikes run with worst tanks than that. A good liner will work best on rough surfaces. A guy on another forum has just recently had this similar problem. He had smooth surfaces and the liner peeled off those areas.

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                • #11
                  Took apart the fuel pump assembly. The pump works great the strainer was clogged up and the rest of the assembly was clogged up. I ordered the fump gasket and 3 new strainers should be here any day. I cleaned the strainer the best i could just to see if the bike would fire and ride. The idle was rough but i figured it would be. The bike was suprisingly fast and handled the throttle no choking or cutting out. I think the issue is fixed. When i get the new gasket and strainers i will put those on and repaint the tank and hopefully get to enjoy the bike.

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                  • #12
                    Does anyone have a list of what the error codes are. I have error code 37 showing. The bike is idling high and backfiring on low rpm’s

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                    • #13
                      So code 37 is the ISC that would be why my bike idles so fast. Anyone come across this or have a fix without replacing the throttle body

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                      • Spydr
                        Spydr commented
                        Editing a comment
                        For the benefit of us guys that are still running carburetors... What's an ISC?

                    • #14
                      Idle speed control

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                      • Spydr
                        Spydr commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Oh. Thank you.
                        Eventually I may get one with FI, so I try to get a bit familiar with the differences.

                    • #15
                      Carb 4 life...lol

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                      • #16
                        Originally posted by Smalls View Post
                        So this is what I got out of the fuel tank after the first 2 cleans. After I put everything back together it runs worse then before. I can’t give it any throttle now. I ordered a quatom fuel pump. Waiting for that to arrive and hopefully it solves all my issues. The tank looks good on the inside now thanks grubsie
                        Just be sure to keep the tank topped off everyday for at least a month so the gas permeates the entire inner surface to keep the rust from coming back.

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