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HELP! 2006 Roadstar 1700 won’t start!

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  • HELP! 2006 Roadstar 1700 won’t start!

    I’ve been a member here since I got my Roadstar but haven’t been very active do to a very busy work schedule. I’m sure you guys here can help me out with your creative and extensive Roadstar knowledge. Last weekend I took my bike on a 3 hour 150 mile ride and it did just fine except for once when the negative terminal screw vibrated loose, pulled over and this was a quick fix though, back on the road in less than 2 minutes. Fast forward to yesterday, I was some what of a bad boy and left the bike out uncovered and it got rained on quite a bit. Later in the evening I go out to start the bike and it cranks like once and then nothing. Tried jumping it off my truck and nothing checked for corrosion on battery connections nothing. The battery reads 12.66 volts which I know isn’t a load test but even still the bike should have cranked when on the jumper cables right? Anyway I took the cover off of what I believe is the solenoid on the bottom right near the footboard. I can see it pushing out and engaging but the starter isn’t rotating. I took the starter out yesterday and took it apart and reassembled it. It was all in good shape. Used volt meter to check power to the starter (when trying to start) and had none. I’m at a loss but I also am not very mechanically inclined when it comes to bikes. Could this be related to the starter clutch?

  • #2
    Pull the 2 outside sparkplugs and try to crank it over. If it sat in the rain and got water into the cylinders thru the air filter and carb you could be hydro locked. IMO that is what is happening. With the plugs pulled out any water in the cylinders will be expelled thru the open spark plug holes. Check the plugs for wetness then clean and dry them with a torch or heat source of some kind.

    Comment


    • #3
      no juice at the starter but the solenoid is switching when the start button is pushed? could be the solenoid is bad..how bout the fuse? and be sure your in neutral ..........
      not all those who wander are lost......

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by davej View Post
        Pull the 2 outside sparkplugs and try to crank it over. If it sat in the rain and got water into the cylinders thru the air filter and carb you could be hydro locked. IMO that is what is happening. With the plugs pulled out any water in the cylinders will be expelled thru the open spark plug holes. Check the plugs for wetness then clean and dry them with a torch or heat source of some kind.
        Would it be hydrolock if starter isn’t getting current though?
        I will check the plugs when I get home just to be sure.

        Comment


        • davej
          davej commented
          Editing a comment
          If the starter isn't getting power then you have to find out why and the starter relay would be the place to start with electrical test.. Your post said it turned over once and stopped. That makes it sound as if the power to the starter isn't the issue. It is easy enough to test with a meter or test light before pulling the plugs.

      • #5
        Originally posted by Flashback View Post
        no juice at the starter but the solenoid is switching when the start button is pushed? could be the solenoid is bad..how bout the fuse? and be sure your in neutral ..........


        If the solenoid is bad would it be moving through it’s travel. I have never seen a solenoid setup like this where it is on the side far from the starter. I checked my ignition fuse it is good I’m trying to get the solenoid off to check for proper current to the solenoid. Power doesn’t come from the solenoid to the starter though.

        Comment


        • davej
          davej commented
          Editing a comment
          he is talking about the starter relay under the left side cover. The solenoid you checked is the decompression solenoid and not the starter relay.

      • #6
        davej I think you have just hit the nail on the head. That’s what I will check when I get home. I couldn’t figure out why that decompression solenoid was engaging but the starter was t getting current. It makes sense if they are seperate entities that one would have current and the other would not. I was trying to check the relay last night but it’s kind of tucked behind the fuse box/ under the seat and I didn’t want to pull it out and figured if the solenoid had current it was obviously coming out of the relay. Could you maybe explain what that funny little decompression solenoid does? It looked like it engaged a lever that went into the crankcase where I am assuming the starter clutch is?

        Comment


        • Lucky
          Lucky commented
          Editing a comment
          If you remove the decompression solenoid cover (2 bolts) and press on
          the little silver metal spoon while it turns over, many times it will start.

      • #7
        The decomp solenoid opens an exhaust valve slightly thru the cam for just a split second to let the engine turn over past a compression stroke. (The simple explanation)

        Comment


        • #8
          So I used a voltmeter to check the two large red wires coming from the starter relay. The both read just slightly under 12v. When I press the starter button they both fall slightly, about .2v does this indicate anything about the starter relay. Is there another way to see if it is good/bad?

          Comment


          • #9
            Yes there is but make double sure the bike is in NEUTRAL. Take an old screwdriver and bridge across those two terminals on the relay. If the starter is okay it'll turn the engine over. Once again make sure the bike is in neutral.

            Also, under 12 volts indicates a discharged battery. Fully charged is 12.8 volts. You ought to bring the battery up to a full charge before trying anything.
            Scott B.

            Comment


            • #10
              texasscott1 just to verify you are referring to the two terminals with bolts in them one coming from the battery and the other running to the starter?

              Comment


              • #11
                Yes those are the ones. Bridging those will send battery current directly to the starter. That's the reason I said to make double sure it's in neutral because if it's in gear the starter will propel the bike forward. You can even disconnect the wire plug and fuses for safety.
                Scott B.

                Comment


                • WTHill5
                  WTHill5 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Alright tried that a couple times to verify I got good connection between the two and just got a nasty arc no starter happenings or anything really. Could I have missed something when I disassembled the starter? Is there anything else between the starter and the relay? The brushes were in good shape and I polished the commutator and reassembled.

              • #12
                Now remove the sparkplugs like I suggested in my first post and blow the water out of the cylinders

                Comment


                • WTHill5
                  WTHill5 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I will try this as soon as I get home, as interesting as it sounds I don’t think it is the problem in my situation otherwise my starter would be groaning against the starter clutch when I bypass the starter relay. But I will try it I promise!

              • #13
                If you have one of those open air filters it's possible for water to collect in the intake and be sucked in when the engine is cranked.
                Scott B.

                Comment


                • #14
                  texasscott1 s Is the winner! I came back home after class and decided to pull the starter and ground it using a jumper cable then use the starter relay bypass test that Texas told me. Starter spun right up it may have been in a bind where I had installed it last time. I reinstalled the starter and verified again that the starter would spin and attempt to start the engine and it did! Time to order a new relay. I know with cars the El Cheapos online tend to be junk. Does anyone have experience with Chinese knockoff relays for the Roadstar? Also big thanks to all you guys for helping me out this is a major win!

                  Comment


                  • Spydr
                    Spydr commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Please don't make the mistake of trying the chinese knock offs (as I did).

                    If you Really want to find out what a mistake that is, I'll send you a Brand New one (you pay shipping).
                    Or you could PM me and I'll tell you a funny/embarrassing story.

                • #15
                  from Solon, IA

                  The conventional wisdom here on the clinic is that's not an area to skimp. OEM is probably the preferred replacement. There may also be a tech article about replacing it with a Ford style relay as I believe that may be a mod some have done as well.

                  Comment


                  • #16
                    Another RSC happy ending.

                    Comment


                    • #17
                      One more thing.... A 12V battery is not really 12 volts. Each of the 6 cells can be 2.3-2.8 volts X 6 cells.
                      So a charged up 12V battery should be 13.8 volts on average. When the engine is charging the battery the voltage goes even higher to 14-16 volts. Also check that with the headlight on.

                      Comment


                      • Bikerron
                        Bikerron commented
                        Editing a comment
                        No more than 2.2 volts per cell right after a full charge and around 2.1 volts per cell after resting for 12-24 hours for a healthy battery.

                        I’d never accept a charge rate more than 14.0-14.2 volts~max.

                        16 volts?! That’ll cook ‘em dry for sure.

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