Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

NEW AMSOIL PRODUCT AT NAPA 20-50W high zinc formula motorcycle compatible.

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #21
    Originally posted by Shores View Post
    I suspect it’s just a repackaging of the current V-Twin 20-50. What indicates it is wet clutch compatible?
    I would not be surprised if your right on the money thinking its re-pkg'd with new label,but you never know,maybe they did tweak
    that oils formula to include more zddp protection.

    When they tested Amsoil v-twin syn oil a few yrs back it had a good solid 1500ppm zddp(Zinc & Phos) lvl in it with no friction mods and was jaso rated too.

    M! v-twin showed approx 1700ppm zddp when tested @ the same tim as the M1 was.

    M1 20w-50 syn for v-twins used to state it was jaso certified on the container but was removed some yrs ago,why is a good question.

    M1 still advertises it's engineered/formuulated for wet clutch apps and i have used it for yrs in wet clutch apps with no issues on my R*'s,frend uses that oil in his 05 R* since he got the bike new and the weak stock original oem clutch spring lasted till approx 45-50k miles before clutch just started to slip.

    Then i sold him a Yamaha star hi perf clutch spring with 20-25% additional clamping force that he installed while retaining all the original stock oem fiber clutch plates,spacer plates and release bearing too (i'd change it if it were my bike) & the clutch is still working just fine with no slippage with now over 70k miles on the bike still running the M! v-twin 20w-50 syn oil.

    The M1 v-twin oil go's on sale at autozone & advanced auto a couple times for only $8.99qt vs reg price $10.99.

    And remember,some yrs back when oil testing was done on approx 17-18 motorcycle specific oils with Amsoil coming in 1st place and M1 V-Twin coming in a close 2nd place so you can't go wrong using either oil.

    I tried the amsoil in my R* & HD too and went back to the M1 v-twin (at times i also use Spectro semi syn or full syn 20-50 bike oil) because the motors on both bikes ran a bit quieter,HD held bit better oil pressure when hot & trans seems to shift a bit better/smoother with the M1,same went for the Spectro vs Amsoil in my 2 bikes.

    Bottom line was there wasn't a significant diff between the amsoil & the M! & Spectro bikes oils,but like i stated above there was a suttle diff that maybe not everyone would notice or pick up it like i did having almost 50yrs 1st hand experience wrenching bikes & cars under my belt giving me the experience to do so.

    Happy motoring!

    Scott

    Comment


    • #22
      Originally posted by Duke View Post
      Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_1858.JPG Views:	1 Size:	93.7 KB ID:	46243Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_1851.JPG Views:	1 Size:	153.8 KB ID:	46244

      I've been using a this blend for over 4 years now and has been working for me.
      Good to know about Amsoil.
      FYI,i tested valvolines VR1 oil & it had approx 1500ppm zddp.which is good for R* FT cams/lifters,BUT,i would not be surprised at all if the VR1 your using/mixing has friction mods in it that are not good for wet clutch apps.

      No disrespect intended but with all the proper motorcycle specific oils avail on the market these days why are you still mixing oils?

      Today there is no good reason to mix oils like your doing & in fact mixing 2 diff oils will more then likely reduce the effectiveness of both oils additive pkg's which is never a good thing not to mention wasting time doing it when there is no good reason or benefit to doing it.

      Will mixing the oil cause your bike to blow up!

      Absolutely not!

      Is mixing the oils the right thing to do with all the proper motorcycle specific oils avail on the market these days?

      No.

      Happy Motoring!

      Scott

      Comment


      • Duke
        Duke commented
        Editing a comment
        I agree Scott, and know what your saying. When I used this mixture 4 years ago, I did notice smother gear changing, less engine noise, and plus 5# of oil pressure when hot, so I've stuck with what has worked in my 2 RS. So far, I haven't had any clutch slipping yet. Last time I checked the cams and lifters in both bikes they showed no wear and in great shape.
        I use to use M1 before I switched to the blend and I do feel M1 and Amsoil are some of the best oils for our bikes. Although I wouldn't rule out Lucas oil.

    • #23
      Just thinking about how many oils threads, not to mention opinions there are on the web with all the forums out there motors motors and tranny's. It has to be staggering.

      Thinking about trying "LubeForLife" oil .and filters It's expensive up front at about $300.00 a quart. But, put it in your engine along with the filter and you will never have to change either ever again.
      I saw it a Wally World on the shelf right next to "WearForever" tires. These 2 items have the potential to dry up oil/tire threads for good.

      Comment


      • #24
        Here's what I found with Lucas oils.
        https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf

        Comment


        • #25
          Thanks Duke. These look like Amsoil's regular MC oils due to their low zinc PPM count. Personally, I wouldn't use any from that list below, on my R*. Minimum zinc PPM should be in the 1400 range. I'd go with the one Brianmac first posted above if you wanted to stick with Amsoil.

          To follow on Grubsie's post, he makes a good point. We've had countless threads, and even some heated discussions, on the old site regarding oil [and tires]. And yes, the internet is littered oil discussions, but there are a lot of new members here and this is useful information. Especially when there's a new product on the market.

          FWIW, I'm sure there are plenty of non-MC or low zinc oils out there, that if someone didn't know any better, would swear works great for their R*. There might even be some that are quieter, or smoother... Initially... But they're likely experiencing unknown internal wear that may not show itself for some time. But the life of that motor will be significantly shortened. If they don't ride a lot, or ride very hard, or keep their R* long, it may never rear it's ugly head... For them... But someone, someday, will find out the hard way.

          For example, I recently discovered the rocker arm shafts on my 32k mile R* were worn. So much so I could feel the grooves on them. Was it due to the previous owner using wrong oil, or setting the idle too low? Or both? I'll never know for certain, but either way, it's an easy enough thing to prevent that we might as well use precaution... And don't anyone fool themselves into thinking, "Well I change the oil every 2,000 miles, so I can use any old oil". Cuz that couldn't be farther from the truth,

          Personally, I don't get hung up on brands, ***as long as they meet the spec***. Best rule of thumb: don't cheap out or cut corners when it comes to oil in your R*. Make sure it's a motorcycle specific oil, designed for a *wet clutch* and has at least 1400 PPM of zinc.

          From Duke's posted list of Amsoil products. The number on the right is zinc PPM [or Parts Per Million]
          Click image for larger version  Name:	Screen Shot 2018-11-10 at 10.54.23 AM.png Views:	1 Size:	72.5 KB ID:	46587
          Amsoil does have other oils on that list, with much higher zinc levels, but they would have issues if used on a wet clutch. Not only clutch slippage, but there's also the potential for prematurely breaking down the oil due to the friction and heat generated by the clutch. Again, best to use the right spec oil for the job.
          Last edited by Doc_V; 4 weeks ago.

          Comment


          • Duke
            Duke commented
            Editing a comment
            I agree with what you and Scott are saying. Very good points.
            I think we all agree, that OIL IS THE LIFE BLOOD OF OUR ENGINES, no doubt about it.

        • #26
          Okay I've got totally confused after reading all of this. I used to use Mobil 1 20 50 V-Twin then I went to amsoil 2050 V-Twin are those two still okay to use and do they have the proper zinc levels. Or has something changed?

          Comment


          • Doc_V
            Doc_V commented
            Editing a comment
            Both are good.. Just stick with a 20w50 *V-twin* oil and you're fine.

        • #27
          Originally posted by NCB View Post
          Okay I've got totally confused after reading all of this. I used to use Mobil 1 20 50 V-Twin then I went to amsoil 2050 V-Twin are those two still okay to use and do they have the proper zinc levels. Or has something changed?
          Yes, both are great to use.
          “The West is the Best" - Jim Morrison

          Comment


          • #28
            The m1 v-twin has approx 1700ppm zddp & amsoil mcv has approx 1400ppm zddp both being full syn oil specifically designed & formulated for lrg disp air cooled v-twin motors requiring max protection from excessive heat,etc.

            Spectro 20w-50 motorcycle oil in semi blend & full syn that has approx 1500ppm zddp is also a good quality oil specifically designed & formulated for lrg dist air cooled v-twins & or transmissions too,it's avail @ Spectro's online oil store.

            I run the Spectro in my HD because it held bit better oil pressure when hot along with also keeping the hyd roller lifters a bit quieter when hot too vs when i tried the Amsoil & M1 v-twin oil i mentioned above,the amsoil resulted in lower oil pressure & a noticeably noisier motor & valvetrain in the HD,the M1 did better all around in the HD then the Amsoil did but the M1 was just a tad off vs Spectro in the HD.

            I spoke to an oil engineer working @ Spectro and he indicated (kinda reading between the lines) that Spectro buys high quality base stock oil and or syn products from Mobil oil co. and then formulates their own high quality more robust additive pkg to their specific specs that according to him can better protect our motorcycle motors.

            Maybe that was the diff i noticed when testing all 3 of the oils i ref here in my HD,i have tested amsoil in both R*'s i have owned vs m1 v-twin and the m1 v-tein did muich better in all areas esp when it came to motor & or valve train noise where the amsoil fresh in bike was not good.

            But i have yet to try the Spectro in my newer 2012 R* i bought earlier this yr though i would think would do well in the R* since it did so well my HD.

            Scott

            Comment


            • Doc_V
              Doc_V commented
              Editing a comment
              "Spectro buys high quality base stock oil and or syn products from Mobil oil co. and then formulates their own..."

              That's pretty common. Now try that Spectro in your R* and let us know what it's like...

          • #29
            --

            By the way, you can go here and get 1 gallon of T6 for $12.97 (after rebate before the end of 2018) if you are interested:

            https://www.amazon.com/Rotella-55004...7E5OLQ67NVPFZA

            Rebate up to 4 gallons.

            --

            Comment


            • #30
              --

              I ran across this done in 2008, which has some info on Rotella T6 which might answer some questions on the "new" formula:


              Eight 4oz oil samples (four brands of oil and four different additives) were sent to Blackstone Laboratories, 415 E. Pettit Ave, Fort Wayne In, Ph 260 744 2380, www.blackstone-labs.com
              1. First, to establish a base line, I started with a1980s vintage "Pennzoil" 10W/40 it contained 547 PPM Phosphorus and 716 PPM Zinc. This was one of the popular oils widely available and used in the 80s. It had adequate ZDDP content for flat tappet engines. View Report (PDF)
              2. The next oil checked was the older version of "Shell Rotella" T, 15W/40; it contained 1133 PPM Phosphorus and 1276 PPM Zinc. Double the amount of the 1980s Pennzoil. View Report (PDF)
              3. Next was the current "Shell Rotella" T, 15W/40. It contained 944 PPM Phosphorus and 1133 PPM Zinc. You can see that the ZDDP content has been slightly reduced, but not enough to worry about because it is still almost double the 1980s vintage oil. View Report (PDF)
              4. Next was "Red Line" racing oil, 10W/40 it contained 1968 PPM Phosphorus and 1180 PPM Zinc. Again close to double the 1980s vintage oil. Very good oil for older engines. View Report (PDF)
              --

              Comment


              • Doc_V
                Doc_V commented
                Editing a comment
                From what I recall, the desired minimum ZDDP PPM is 1350. I could be wrong, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. Just my $.02

            • #31
              those reports are from 2008, the point of this thread is the feds are forcing change so products are changing, this is not an thread for opinions on oil.

              Comment


              • #32
                The old "white paper" we've referred to a hundred times in the Clinic, and even in this thread, came from, if I remember correctly, '09, now nearly 10 years ago. That was all on, as was said, bike oils. The Amsoil and Mobil 1 did stand out, and some were actually quite poor. No doubt, some formulations have been changed since then, too. My point only being, in this, is that Amsoil still makes the very oil spec'd by Yami for the R*. Many here speak of 20-50, but nowhere have I ever seen or heard that Yami calls for 20-50 for the R*. If they do, please share that with us. The capability of 10-40 is supposed to take in the heat extremes you guys down south are willing to ride in, according to heat range charts I've ever seen. Amsoil makes what they call a 10w-40 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil that specifically references "cruising," is Jaso wet-clutch compatible, and has the high ZDDP our flat-tappet V-twins require. Bought as a 4-gal case lot thru the local dealer I use, it has worked out to $8.25 a qt. in the past. Like some have said... and I share... for the love of God, fellas, don't try to cheap out on your oil! Unless you can lead-pipe cinch certify that you are running a Jaso approved, purposely high ZDDP content additive package for old-style cams and lifters, as we have in our bikes... You're just rollin' the dice and takin' yer chances. Why would anyone do that?!?!? I've gotten very leery and cautious when checking out older R*s for sale anymore... I ask what oil's been used, and if the seller doesn't know, or speaks of anything other than a v-twin specific bike oil... I walk.

                Comment


                • #33
                  Originally posted by Questcap
                  , Many here speak of 20-50, but nowhere have I ever seen or heard that Yami calls for 20-50 for the R*. If they do, please share that with us.
                  That’s strange. I had to look no further than the owners manual that came with the bike, under Specifications, to find your request. I fall in the SAE 20W-50 catagory down here in SE Texas where it’s hot as hell.

                  I just don’t use Yamalube. I’m a Mobil 1 V-Twin oil guy.



                  Comment


                  • Questcap
                    Questcap commented
                    Editing a comment
                    What can I say... I got my own out, and it didn't have that chart, nor did it specify 20w-50.... what year manual is that out of?

                  • Bikerron
                    Bikerron commented
                    Editing a comment
                    2009. Just researched the carb model manuals and that chart wasn’t in them, but your original inquiry was that you have never seen where Yamaha suggested using 20W-50 oil, so that’s what I did.

                    Hope that helps.

                  • Bikerron
                    Bikerron commented
                    Editing a comment
                    You’re correct about the chart temperature ranges.

                • #34
                  Originally posted by Questcap View Post
                  I've gotten very leery and cautious when checking out older R*s for sale anymore... I ask what oil's been used, and if the seller doesn't know, or speaks of anything other than a v-twin specific bike oil... I walk.
                  That's a real good point, I've thought of it myself after I discovered my rocker shafts were worn... The other is the low idle that some like. IIRC, anything below 800 RPMs and you're not getting full pressure to the top end. But that's another story.

                  Comment


                  • #35
                    Originally posted by Questcap View Post
                    The old "white paper" we've referred to a hundred times in the Clinic, and even in this thread, came from, if I remember correctly, '09, now nearly 10 years ago. That was all on, as was said, bike oils. The Amsoil and Mobil 1 did stand out, and some were actually quite poor. No doubt, some formulations have been changed since then, too. My point only being, in this, is that Amsoil still makes the very oil spec'd by Yami for the R*. Many here speak of 20-50, but nowhere have I ever seen or heard that Yami calls for 20-50 for the R*. If they do, please share that with us. The capability of 10-40 is supposed to take in the heat extremes you guys down south are willing to ride in, according to heat range charts I've ever seen. Amsoil makes what they call a 10w-40 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil that specifically references "cruising," is Jaso wet-clutch compatible, and has the high ZDDP our flat-tappet V-twins require. Bought as a 4-gal case lot thru the local dealer I use, it has worked out to $8.25 a qt. in the past. Like some have said... and I share... for the love of God, fellas, don't try to cheap out on your oil! Unless you can lead-pipe cinch certify that you are running a Jaso approved, purposely high ZDDP content additive package for old-style cams and lifters, as we have in our bikes... You're just rollin' the dice and takin' yer chances. Why would anyone do that?!?!? I've gotten very leery and cautious when checking out older R*s for sale anymore... I ask what oil's been used, and if the seller doesn't know, or speaks of anything other than a v-twin specific bike oil... I walk.
                    --

                    I don't doubt your sincerity about using a good quality oil. The thing is, for some folks, like me, will be changing oil such that I will use about 28 quarts of oil in this next season. That's just on my motorcycles. I don't know how you get the $8.25 per quart, the best I can see is as a preferred customer at about $10.15 per quart plus tax and nothing for shipping. That total will come to around $300. for oil alone. Just trying to say one can see how dropping the cost down can be very enticing.

                    That said, and considering the all round benefits vs. potential harm, I will be using Amsoil anyway for the bikes. Note that my new Yamaha Star Eluder takes 6 quarts. Damn.

                    --

                    Comment


                    • Questcap
                      Questcap commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Like I said... through my local dealer. He gave me a special wholesale discount price, and I've offered it here several years in a row, and there may have been 1 taker only, but I had expected a lot of you would have contacted Ernie in Woonsocket, RI, but when I asked him... I think only 1 ever did.

                  • #36
                    --

                    Questcap,

                    You'll be happy to know that I just emailed your dealer and requested a case of the Amsoil. So your recommendations have not been in vain.

                    --

                    Comment


                    • Questcap
                      Questcap commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Was that Ernie in Woonsocket?

                  • #37
                    on the above temp chart, it is most important to observe the temperature range, specifically the lower end. for 20-50, that would be 50 degrees F. any thing less, u should be using 10w-40. which is good down to 10 deg F, am i right?

                    in FL, we rarely get <50 F, thankfully.

                    Comment


                    • #38
                      Originally posted by RonK View Post
                      --

                      Questcap,

                      You'll be happy to know that I just emailed your dealer and requested a case of the Amsoil. So your recommendations have not been in vain.

                      --
                      --

                      Q,

                      It was to an Earnest Joyal at synalt@aol.com.

                      --

                      Comment


                      • Questcap
                        Questcap commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Yeh, that's the one... don't hesitate to use my name, and let us know what the current price is to your door.

                    • #39
                      Originally posted by brianmac View Post
                      on the above temp chart, it is most important to observe the temperature range, specifically the lower end. for 20-50, that would be 50 degrees F. any thing less, u should be using 10w-40. which is good down to 10 deg F, am i right?

                      in FL, we rarely get <50 F, thankfully.
                      LOL!!

                      At 63 yrs old & riding motorcycles for now approx 50yrs i dont ride unless it's approx 50-55deg F or higher so 20w-50 works for me here in upstate NY where
                      it can get chilly & snowy!

                      But one thing thats often overlooked on this subject is the fact most oil visc vs temp rec charts avail show for dino/conventional oil and these days they need to have 2 seperate visc vs temp rec charts to properly reflect the much better cold flow properties of full syn motor which isnt reflected in any temp vs visc rec charts i have yet to see.

                      So since std dino 20w-50 show as being ok for use down to 50deg f i would think full syn 20-50 oil that by design cold flows better would maybe ok to use as low as approx 40-45 deg f which is just an est on my part & not fact.

                      If someone found a temp vs visc charts specifically stated as being just for newer full syn motor oils please post a link to it here.

                      Scott

                      Comment


                      • #40
                        Originally posted by Doc_V View Post

                        That's a real good point, I've thought of it myself after I discovered my rocker shafts were worn... The other is the low idle that some like. IIRC, anything below 800 RPMs and you're not getting full pressure to the top end. But that's another story.
                        Very true and when a R* motor is hot @ lower idle lower idle speed lowering oil pressure & oil flow that results in reduced oil flow
                        & pressure to the flat tappet cams & lifters,the bottom end bearings,top end rockers & their shafts,pushrods,etc reducing cooling a bit when sitting still at traffic lights
                        too.

                        Short term lower idle wouldnt be a big deal but having a low idle speed below 900-950rpm minimum all the time over enough time & miles could be a factor leading to a major engine failure and or repair bill like for example prematurely worn out FT cams & lifters esp is running an oil with lower then optimal zddp lvl too.

                        Thats why as soon as i bougth my 2012 R* with 1,250 original miles on it the 1st thing i did was to change the oil & filter (M1 -V-twin 20w-50) & at the same time install a Jagg oil cooler with a thermostatically controlled elec cooling fan to help reduce oil/engine temp a bit esp for when in summer heat cond's in slow moving traffic and or when at stoplights.

                        Doing anything to keep the oil/engine temps on our R*'s a bit cooler at all times in warmer riding cond's is always a good thing for increasing engine longjevity & overall perf along with also improving rider comfort a bit due to reduced engine temp too.

                        I chose to spend the $400 i did for the benefits of the Jagg fan assist oil cooler vs installing aftermarket pipes for $500,$600,$800 .

                        But when talking oil coolers keep in mind their efficiency is significantly reduced (almost useless) without cooling fans when you are in stop/go traffic @ stoplights with no airflow thru the oil cooler and also when at slow road speeds where there's little to no airflow thru the cooler core too.

                        Si if your considering installing an oil cooler spend the extra bucks to get a fan assist oil cooler that will do the job when at cruise and when sitting still in traffic too when your motor needs it most when it's generating excessive heat that a fan assist oil cooler can help reduce.

                        Also looking at modding love jugs new mitey Mite twin elec cooling fans that would mount on left side of motor directing/blowing cool air on upper portion of cyls & heads
                        to make a 2 parts max cooling system for the r*.

                        I did the same thing to my 09 HD (fan assist oil cooler & Love jugs type mitey mite cooling fans) which reduced overall oil temp in summer heat a whopping 50deg f
                        resulting in 6-7 major improvements in engine perf & overall rider comfort right off the bat post installing them.

                        * NO MORE DETONATION IN HOT TEMP

                        * OIL PRESSURE IS 8-10SPI MORE @ IDLE & CRUISE
                        * VALVES/LIFTERS NO REMAIN QUIET

                        * NOW RETAINS CRIS THROTTLE RESPONSE BECAUSE MOTOR NOW RETAINS MOST OF THE PWR/TRQ IT USED TO ALWAYS LOOSE IN WARMER TEMP

                        * HOT STARTS LIKE FOR EXAMPLE POST FUELING UP IN HOT TEMP ARE EASIER/FASTER
                        DUE TO BATTERY & MOTOR BEING LESS HEAT SOAKED.

                        * IMPROVED RIDER COMFORT DUE TO LESS ENGINE HEAT ALONG WITH MOTOR RETAINING CRISP THROTTLE RESPONSE AND LESS
                        ENGINE/VALVE TRAIN NOISE AND SEEING MOTORS HOLDING 8-10PSI HIGHER OIL PRESSURE TOO.

                        Bottom when talking lrg disp air cooled v-twin bikes is any money you spend installing mods that significantly reduce oil/engine temp every mintwe/mile your riding in warmer cond's will benefit you and the bike for it's complete srv'c life.

                        Another benefit to oil/engine running cooler is its easier on all electronics close to or in the motor like the stator in motor side case,ign coils mounted on frame on top opf heads between fuel tank and motor etc along with also extending srv'c life of all gaskets,seals (esp Valve Seals!) etc associated with the motor too.

                        Scott

                        Comment

                        Latest Posts

                        Collapse

                        Topics Statistics Last Post
                        Started by divewelder, 13 hours ago
                        13 responses
                        126 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post davej
                        by davej
                         
                        Started by zingpow, 1 week ago
                        32 responses
                        359 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post zingpow
                        by zingpow
                         
                        Started by zingpow, 1 day ago
                        19 responses
                        159 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post zingpow
                        by zingpow
                         
                        Started by roadiemort, 03-05-2018, 08:01 PM
                        2,795 responses
                        23,695 views
                        3 likes
                        Last Post roadiemort  
                        Started by jd750ace, 1 day ago
                        26 responses
                        227 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post RonK
                        by RonK
                         
                        Started by davej, 16 hours ago
                        4 responses
                        85 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post Bikerron  
                        Started by cike, 20 hours ago
                        5 responses
                        115 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post LDofDC
                        by LDofDC
                         
                        Started by scottw, 3 days ago
                        9 responses
                        134 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post scottw
                        by scottw
                         
                        Started by brianmac, 4 weeks ago
                        68 responses
                        777 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post scottw
                        by scottw
                         
                        Started by grubsie, 2 days ago
                        7 responses
                        123 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post RonZee
                        by RonZee
                         
                        Started by JoeBloShmo, 20 hours ago
                        4 responses
                        57 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post Bikerron  
                        Started by J89k, 1 day ago
                        8 responses
                        94 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post Flashback  
                        Started by Jed Milhorne, 2 weeks ago
                        46 responses
                        773 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post BSeward
                        by BSeward
                         
                        Started by Chksbak, 1 day ago
                        20 responses
                        115 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post Txulrich  
                        Started by BubbaKahuna, 2 days ago
                        10 responses
                        196 views
                        1 like
                        Last Post Doc_V
                        by Doc_V
                         
                        Started by Shores, 1 week ago
                        26 responses
                        395 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post Shores
                        by Shores
                         
                        Started by J89k, 1 day ago
                        4 responses
                        79 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post davej
                        by davej
                         
                        Started by BBB, 2 days ago
                        13 responses
                        123 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post davej
                        by davej
                         
                        Started by brianmac, 4 weeks ago
                        13 responses
                        231 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post davej
                        by davej
                         
                        Started by cjm, 5 days ago
                        18 responses
                        201 views
                        0 likes
                        Last Post brianmac  
                        Working...
                        X