I've been working things out with a set of 1700 jugs that were sleeved to the 100mm bore, and a set of JE pistons. I'm using the 1600 heads, modified combustion chambers, with change-over guide pins I had machined. I've been checking everything over and over before I do the full assembly.
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98ci to a 108ci
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98ci to a 108ci
Anyone have experience going with the 108ci?
I've been working things out with a set of 1700 jugs that were sleeved to the 100mm bore, and a set of JE pistons. I'm using the 1600 heads, modified combustion chambers, with change-over guide pins I had machined. I've been checking everything over and over before I do the full assembly.5 PhotosTags: None
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Mine is a 110 Big Bore. I think Jay is correct but I'm also not positive. I would talk to Nigil Patrick at Patrick Racing to confirm.
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Going for displacement. I'm going to run the stock cams and trying to have a little more torque, keeping the RPMs low. The valves are 3 angel cut and pocket ported, and for now, I'm staying with the stock valve sizes.
The heads should work with the stepped guide pins and running the 100mm gaskets. With all the measurements and inspection I've checked out, I'm hoping that the 1600 heads work. If anyone knows something about this set up, please chime in. Maybe davej will have some information?
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Duke I have the 110 cu in. I had a concern about the heat displacement of the 108 so I went with the sleeved 110. JMO but I think the cyl would be to thin to displace heat. I love the power of the 110. I added cams about a year after the initial Big Bore install. I ported/polished my own heads along with port matching. I also installed Heavy Duty valve springs from Orient Express. They work as good as the expensive (over priced) springs from PR and were only $65 for the set.
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Dave, that's good to know, thanks. Is your 110 built from a 1700 or the 1600? The cooling fins on the 1700 are longer and I cut down the sides a little, (approximately 1/4" on the left sides), to match the 1600 heads. I will have to run the 1700 oil lines to clear the jugs.
Do you think the stock cams will work for good torque?
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mine is built from a 07 1700. The stock cams worked OK but the PR cams really woke it up. Night and day difference and a must even if you don't do them right away. Good thing is they are in a different part of the engine so you really don't have to redo much of anything to install them later. If you do the cams you also will want to get the collapsible push rod tubes.
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I finally put together the 108ci engine and it works great so far. Definitely more torque and hp, along with good fuel mileage. I’m running the modified stock carburetor and stock ECU for now. I’ll be adding the Dyna 3000 ignition soon. The jugs are the 1700 cylinders that have been sleeved. I had to use stepped guide pins between the heads and cylinders.
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Originally posted by Duke View Post​
I finally put together the 108ci engine and it works great so far. Definitely more torque and hp, along with good fuel mileage. I’m running the modified stock carburetor and stock ECU for now. I’ll be adding the Dyna 3000 ignition soon. The jugs are the 1700 cylinders that have been sleeved. I had to use stepped guide pins between the heads and cylinders.
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The RoadStar 'crate' engine? Might be a fun enterprise!
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Just called Patrick Racing, and they quoted me a price of $1495. for the 110ci big bore kit. Kit comes with cylinder sleeves, pistons, rings, head gaskets, and machine work to sleeve your jugs.
Patrick Racing said that the prices of everything they get to make up the kits, have gone up tremendously.
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Would love to see the torque increase with the stock cams versus aftermarket cams. It's very cool you can maintain good gas mileage and get that extra torque and usable RPM rangeLET'S RIDE
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On mine
Big Bore stock cam ,self ported heads stock size valves =75hp, 106Tq
Big Bore Self port and stock valves, PR cam= 82hp 109tq
Big Bore PR cam, Pro 1 Racing custom hand ported heads and 2mm oversize valves w/multi angle grind = 94hp, 114tq
Stock 1700 63hp and I think 96TQ
so the increase from stock is pretty nice.
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LOL twisting the throttle will get me down in the 20's mpg. But sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. You should consider getting a AFR meter for tuning. If you don't have a fairing to mount it just mount it in a tach bracket or make it a portable tool just for tuning by rigging a sniffer tube to stuff into the tail pipe like they use on a Dyno machine. I found that the afr gauge saved me hundreds of $$ in the long run over dyno tuning. I only had dynos don't after the tuning was done or after mods were made and tuning adjusted.
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Originally posted by davej View PostOn mine
Big Bore stock cam ,self ported heads stock size valves =75hp, 106Tq
Big Bore Self port and stock valves, PR cam= 82hp 109tq
Big Bore PR cam, Pro 1 Racing custom hand ported heads and 2mm oversize valves w/multi angle grind = 94hp, 114tq
Stock 1700 63hp and I think 96TQ
so the increase from stock is pretty nice.
Guy local to me now does 137 cube 1900 motor for Liner/Raider...mintereated to see the numbers that puts downLET'S RIDE
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The guy I sent my heads to has been hand porting for over 50 years. He has worked with Nigil from PR also. My hand port was really more of a port cleaning up than a true port job.I knew I was eventually gonna send them for professional porting and didn't want to open anything up to much in the wrong place and screw things up.IMO his hand porting is better than CBC porting because he flows them and makes whatever correction is needed instead of CNC 1 size fits all. All castings are not exactly the same but CNC cuts them as if they were and can leave dead spots in the ports. Google Pro 1 racing heads or "Shortblock Charlie" He has video's online with a lot of explanation of what needs to be done to properly port and flow heads. He does a lot of Harley stuff. When he seen the R* heads he said that it looked like HD used Yamaha design on the M-8 heads.
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I’ve been thinking about adding a AFR meter. No doubt about it, it would surly help for tuning through out the rpm ranges.
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