Voltage drop when accelerating?

[Darkwingduck]

Hey guys, gonna clean the carb out, Still getting pops on accel, with slight hesitation.
Seems little sluggish at times as well.
I'm suspicious that my polyurethane foam air filter, had degraded, and gotten into the intake. I flushed it out and seemed to help somewhat, but still there.
Going to break down and do an overhaul on the carb.

I decided to run thru an electrical check before doing so.
(Had a short in the stator wiring, at the harness connection last month, which I Repaired the Wires)
I then had gotten Dielectric grease all over the threads of my spark plugs and connectors in the boots. (Don't ask. It was a Noob move.. Didn't see that the grease was di electric..)
Cleaned all that off and got new plugs. Ever since these problems, I've got this popping when I try to get up on her..

Voltage at Idle holds at 14.13, but drops to 14.11 when at 2-5000ish rpms. What could be causing the resistance?
Battery is new, Charging seems good, doesn't overcharge. Just the a slight drop in volts.
Did my new stator get damaged from the short that I found in the wiring?
Would any of this cause these symptoms?

Could damage to the stator or and or, R/R be causing the misfiring too??

[Tcontrol]

quote…”Voltage at Idle holds at 14.13, but drops to 14.11”……

You are seriously worried about a difference of 0.02 volts….. ???

[Darkwingduck]

Well yeah since it would climb to 4.35v under load before..

[Darkwingduck]

So I figured something wasn't right??

[Darkwingduck]

Or should I not worry about that?

[Darkwingduck]

I guess I am a little worried that I may have damaged the system when the harness to the stator melted..

[Darkwingduck]

Resistance on the stator was all under 1ohm. Ground and continuity test passed.
I know temps very for resistance tests, and its really hot here at VA Bch..
All tests were still within the good zone, which I was told under (1.0) ohm was acceptable?.. I had (.24) to (.34) on that test after the repair to the wires. (No Harness now) R/R would hold at (14.18) Idle (14.37) under load.

[Darkwingduck]

Anyone else have any input? Helpful maybe?

[MidnightRide]

Someone familiar with your issue will check in. Probably out riding!

[Darkwingduck]

Yeah.. Rub it it why don't ya! lol

[davej]

don't worry about it. It's fine.

[Darkwingduck]

Thanks!
I also figured out that I had put a washer on the needle improperly.
Didn't see it fall off when I cleaned it out so wasn't 100% sure where it went...
Put it at the top instead of at the plastic spacer.
Gonna fix that, and then this time, disassemble and clean the jets.
Cleaned the plugs, and did a spark check too.
All looks good so far, I will check back when I finish the carb overhaul and see how she's running.

[davej]

putting the washer on top of the clip instead of under the clip where it belongs would change the needle setting by 1/2 groove making it lean. That will make a bit of difference in the performance of the bike.

[Tcontrol]

You are measuring voltage of a battery and trying to determine charging status of the system…
the charging system provides current to charge a battery… the regulator limits the current to prevent overcharging the battery…

a fully charged lead acid battery will usually measure about 13.6 volts when charge method is disconnected… add a load to the battery and measure voltage to determine how effective a battery holds charge while providing current..

“most” engine charging systems are limited to about 14.6 - 15.4 volts charge voltage with various regulators rated for different current values… a battery with a low charge may show the 14.6 - 15.4 volts applied charge… as the battery nears full charge capacity… the voltage readings may reduce slightly since the charging current is reduced… this is normal for a battery in good shape…

an old lead acid battery which has developed reduced capacity (sulfation) of the plates would reach capacity at a slightly lower charging voltage… in other words… it cannot accept more charging current due to this sulfation of the lead plates… hence batteries get old and defective… a bad cell is what occers when the sulfation shorts out the lead plates in a battery cell…

short a good battery… arc weld wire together due to high capacity current…

short a bad battery… very little current and measured voltage drops rapidly…

the voltage check of a charging system is a rough check of the engine charging system capability… a bad stator field or bad regulator will show up quite readily as a less than 13.6 volt charge at the battery while engine is running… it really doesn’t tell you anything about charging current… thats where a properly sized amp meter can be effective…

simplified explanation of course…. I figure that should be sufficient for most mechanics…

[Darkwingduck]

Ok.. Went by the shop I had the Jetting done at a couple years ago. Any one familiar with Dynojet? I also look'd over my notes and I back'd out 3.5 as the jetting instructions, and manual also says.. So I'm hoping a simple adjustment at intervals will get me back on the road.. notes say I was 2.5<>3.0 turns out, before all my backfiring issues not 3.5. Black smoke, and flashes out the pipes. occasional back thru carb if pushed.

[Darkwingduck]

Ok! that's positive.. better with the backfire and smoke out the pipes. Sound and seems to be starving on the top end of the throttle while doing the adjustments. I did put the washer on the under side of the needle tab. (Earlier I started I had not seen where it came off at. on one washer. Its a Dynojet kit if that helps. I only noticed one washer, which is currently under the clip with the plastic spacer.

[davej]

what groove is the clip in?

[Darkwingduck]

I believe its 4th I can check.

[Darkwingduck]

Counting from the top, 4th.

[Darkwingduck]

Oh yeah The washer is on the top side of clip now, not the spacer side.

[Darkwingduck]

That's where it was during the test. I will wait for a reply before I put it back.