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  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    The plugs are new ngk (whatever was recommended in clymers) gapped at 0.34 they were a bit dark still better than they were lol. Come to think Of it tho the first time I put it together I went 3.5 turns out the last time I went 2.5 out and it did seem to lesson the bog. I thought that was idle mixture I didn’t realize it would effect the afr but thinking about it now I guess it would. I’ll give it a shot thanks

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  • Shotround
    replied
    are new plugs black? pms oring, washer and spring in correct order?

    i suggest 2 +-0.25 turns on pms. work it up from there. i had no issues in the garage but on the road it behaved as you described. after a month or so of trying everything suggested, it was going two turns that got it stabilized for me. then i tweaked it for about two weeks. finally installed an afr guage. then i tried all the jets again to see how it behaved. then tried to reach 40mpg while doing 75mph+. then found out i was supposed to adjust for temps. now im wondering if im can return the favor with what little knowledge ive gained.

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    oh someone was asking about my old cdi. the cdi was last years drama my current one is fine. ive adjusted the float level to 5 mm above, level with the seem and below it. ive jetted it at 167.5 172.5 and 175. it does exactly the same thing every time. deleted the pump installed 3.0 seat pulled the screen etc. i dont know what jet was in it before because you cant read it but it is larger than 175. (obviously different needle and ran rich) checked by how far down it will slide on a straight pick

    Leave a comment:


  • Lug Nut
    replied
    Originally posted by Yesthatmat
    Yeah I have the grizzly needle and seat 3.0 I’ve adjusted the float height at clymer spec I’ve tried higher and lower. Sadly the stock cdi was trash
    5mm above seam for float level
    howndonyou know cdi was bad?

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    Yeah I have the grizzly needle and seat 3.0 I’ve adjusted the float height at clymer spec I’ve tried higher and lower. Sadly the stock cdi was trash

    Leave a comment:


  • brianmac
    replied
    float ht, ck, and did u replace the needle and seat fuel inlet valve in carb? you wanna sell a stock 1700 ecu/cdi/ignitor?

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    Pulls hair out. Bout to start over from the beginning

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    Yes I bought the kit. The tps was off a little (590 ohm between yellow and black closed and 3200 at wot) the bowl looked to be wet when I took it off so I’m waiting for an oem o ring to get here.

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    commented on 's reply
    What do you mean by " I may have removed the tps"? You either did or you didn't. I'm not sure why you would to change the jetting.

  • davej
    replied
    where are you getting " varying info on what the needle stack should be" If the pic above is the stack it is correct and the same as everyone here has on there bike with a Barons jet kit. If you have a different brand jet kit it could be different depending on what brand kit you have. A Speedstar kit would be clip in the 5th groove and a dyna kit it could go in either 3rd or 4th groove depending on washer stack. Are you sure you have a Barons jet kit?

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    ill check it again when i put it back together (waiting on pump delete parts) i keep getting varying info on what the needle stack should be this is headed down the "holly terminator custon fuel injection turbo" route if it keeps this shit up lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Lug Nut
    replied
    Aoundsike your float level is off....shoyldnt have fuel in the spots you mentioned.

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    Also I may have removed the tps so I need to reset that with a multimeter apparently

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    Random side note. Should the cover side of the coast enricher diaphragm be covered in fuel? Like take the cover off and the inside has fuel in it but only on the cover side

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    So that’s the stack my instructions came with. I noticed however the intake manifold is drenched in fuel. I cut the bike off at like noon it’s 530pm

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    I’m going to go tear it apart now and take pics

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    With everything back as it should be it does the same thing. I can do a few mid range full throttle pulls and it’s fine. If I wind it up it dies off if I do too many mid range full throttle pulls it doesn’t it in the mid range unless I chill for a minute or two. It feels like it’s sucking the bowl dry. Maybe the pump is weak I don’t really know. And I took it back apart 3rd time now the stack is as barons says in the very tiny picture.

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    I'm sure the air filter isn't the issue I'm saying until you get everything in order the way it is supposed to be, that trying to diagnose an issue is worthless. You can't introduce new issues and expect to get good results. He should bring it home, take it back apart very carefully and inspect everything as it comes apart..

    Leave a comment:


  • Dr. D
    replied
    Just in case the filter isn't the issue - are you sure you put the bushing/washer stack back on the Baron's needle correctly? Only mentioning because it is something I double checked.

    Leave a comment:


  • Yesthatmat
    replied
    I’m going to pull my air box back off for the ride home (air filter should be there this evening) and see if it is something to do with that tho I did ride it once without a filter because the original 2005 unit that was on it when I bought it (3kmiles) was falling apart. And it behaved fine. But it wasn’t modded

    Leave a comment:

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