Vibration at the front wheel

[NCB]

This vibration is driving me nuts! It is a vibration that is not constant. It happens for approx. 2 secs and then goes away for about the same amount of time and then does it again. the vibration only happens at around 30-40 mph at 45 mph it stops? When I was riding the other day and it was happening I leaned over as far as I could and felt the left shock and could not feel a vibration, did the same to the right side and there was a vibration? The vibration stops when applying the brakes.


So, I took the pads out of the right side caliper and put the caliper back on the bike. Rode around the block using only the back brake (that is hard as Shi! to do, not grabbing the front brake). The vibration was gone without the pads? I pushed out the pistons to where they were nice and shiny and cleaned the hell out of them! Installed the pads and put the caliper back on and rode around the block, the damn vibration is back again!
So, my question now is, these are floating rotors (I'm not really sure how the floating rotors should work?). Could the rotor be the problem?
Does anyone have a rotor that they know is good and would part with? My bike is a 2007.

[Shores]

My 2008 does not have floating rotors front or rear. Floating rotors are identified by six small steel rings between the inner rotor hub and the outer rotor plate which makes contact with the caliper pads. Have you done the flop test on your front steering head? How old are your tires and what brand are they? What is the psi? Did you use caliper Grease between your caliper pistons and the pads? If you haven't already, I would remove any lead balancing weights and install RideOn.

[NCB]

I do have floating rotors, I have already check to make sure the rings are not frozen and will move.

Flop test has always failed on my bike since I have had it. Have had the bike for four years. Bought it with 3,800 mile on it, now had 49k. One time I had a wobble at the handle bars around 40 mph and tightened the steering nut and that fixed it. There is no play in the steering bearing when on the jack.

Tire on the back has 2k on it and the front around 500 miles on it. 40 psi in the rear 38 front. Michelin Commander III's

Yes grease on back of pads and on slide pin. As stated above I cleaned the hell out of the caliper, all piston were working freely.

When the tire was mounted they removed the weights and installed beads. The same thing with the rear. I just took the wheel back to the place that mounted it on Tuesday and they recheck the balance on the tire, all is good there!

That is why I'm thinking it is the rotor???

[Tcontrol]

I will save myself the trouble of offering any advise and just go ahead and…

i validate you…..!!

[NCB]

Your point is??

[Tcontrol]

Your prior post…..
you have informed what you have done… flop test, calipers, rotors, forks, tires….etc…

you are not looking for help….. you are looking for validation….
therefore….
”i validate you”….

that is the point of your post…. Is it not?…

[Tcontrol]

If your looking for help…. Try disassembling and cleaning the inside of the fork tubes…change the fork oil… examine for tire cupping… etc… etc…

[NCB]

That's the kind of advise I was looking for, not validation. I first stated what I had done to try and locate the issue, then I answered shores questions.

What you should do is stay off the topic if you have nothing constructive to say! Take that shit to FB!!!

[Tcontrol]

Then i shall ask one question ….

the first thing any body will suggest is replace the triple tree bearings…. You have already dismissed that by your “flop test” and “excess play” while on a jack stand diagnosis….

question…. Would you dis-assemble the triple tree and the forks to actually examine the parts for deterioration and wear if somebody actually suggested it..?

or have you already decided your rotor is warped even though you never mentioned that the problem only occurs when front brake is depressed…. Your posting alluded to this diagnosis and decision… you wrote it….. try reading what you wrote….

hence…. “take that shit to FB”….!!!

[NCB]

I stated that the vibration stopped when applying the brakes. Take your own advise. Stop assuming what advise someone would take.
No response needed on your part, have a nice night!

[Tcontrol]

A testy response from you and yet…

you did not even answer the question…. You responded that i assumed what advise you would take…

so would you take the forks and triple tree apart to examine the bearings/ parts for wear..?

[roadiemort]

Lol, even if he just hammered the nuts down to take up any slack he would find out eventually if the bearing is shot from the grinding and jerky steering.

[Tcontrol]

Eventually………

[NCB]

Once more, read the dam post!
I said the vibration stops when I removed the brake pads!

[roadiemort]

Exactly, you need the friction of the pads to move the front end in the head.

[NCB]

Go troll another post! You're the only one I've ever seen on this forum that has nothing constructive to say about the post.

[roadiemort]

Can you be more specific as to whom your calling names child?

[Tcontrol]

so would you take the forks and triple tree apart to examine the bearings/ parts for wear..?

Troll…????

i asked a simple question…. One that you still haven’t answered….. you have already decided what your problem is… hence… i validated you…. Exactly what you desired for your troubleshooting…

now you are angry and calling me names…. If you are not willing to examine steering head bearings or internal fork components…. That is your decision…

you have a 14 year old bike with about 50,000 miles that has failed the “flop” test since you bought it 3 years ago with 3800 miles… you tightened the nut because it “wobbled” at 40,000 miles…. You can do whatever you want to do…. It’s your bike… it’s your problem…. I asked if you are willing to dis-assemble the forks and the triple tree and examine some wear items…

you know…. Bearings, slide bushings, seals, fork springs, fork oil… etc… but you have decided it is something else…. You do not want help…. You want validation of what your troubleshooting entailed…

once again… you mentioned the caliper and vibration stopping when brake pads removed… so if thats what you think it is…. Address it…. If your not willing to dis-assemble and check the forks and head bearings …. Well…. I guess thats on you….

and i guess i would be a troll for having the audacity to suggest an inspection of front end components that you are convinced have no bearing on a vibration issue with the front end of your bike…


So let me validate you once again….

i am a troll….. are you happy now…?????

[roadiemort]

Lol, you have more R* knowledge than a lot of folks on here including me, thanks for the time you share for others here, sadly folks are so thin skinned sometimes it is hard to stay focused to the task at hand.

[Tcontrol]

Roadiemort….
You have just made my day…. I have been reading on this clinic for many years now.(2006)… i have learned many things and have tried to advise in a limited capacity…. Sharing knowledge is a passion…. Of course it can be frustrating as hell trying to advise people who require validation instead of assistance…. If i remember correctly…. you pointed that fact out a couple of weeks ago…. You are a wise man..
I think the world of many of my fellow gear heads…. My knowledge is acquired from reading my fellow clinic guru’s and tinkering with cars, boats, and bikes. I sure do not consider myself nearly as knowlegable as you and many of these other clinic members… so ….
THANK YOU for the compliment…!!!

[Chooch]

Do you have or can you get a caliper, dial indicator, and/or micrometer? The manual has specific procedures for checking brake rotors. Once you have confirmed the condition of the rotors you can find replacements if they are bad or continue with your diagnosis.

[NCB]

Checked the tolerance on the rotor, it's ok there.
IM going to have the rotor checked to make sure it's not warped. Thanks for the help.

[Tcontrol]

If your rotor was warped… you would feel it when you apply the front brake…. By your prior post the vibration disappears when you apply the brake…

what you are feeling is “usually” caused by a triple tree steering head bearing… if you have not serviced your front forks in 50,000 miles… you should at least change the fork oil… there are slide bearings internal to the forks that are considered a wear item as well… while you are sevicing the fork tubes… removal of the triple tree is just a small additional step…

you may think the bearings are good due to your testing on the jack but i assure you… the symptoms you are experiencing point directly to the steering tree bearings… the only way you can be confirm is by dis-assembly and inspection… you will most likely find corrosion and lack of lubrication… especially if the bike spends time outside in the elements….

[NCB]

I appreciate the advice! I will start with changing the fork fluid. Wanted to do that for awhile. I will inspect the forks and steering bearing at that time.

[NCB]

Checked the rotor with a dial indicator. It was fine.
Ordered fork rebuild kit and steering bearings.
All parts from All Balls.
Will see if that takes care of this vibration?

[Father Pobasturd]

This is a great post! Reminds me of the Old RSC (before the move) when insults and insolence ran rampant through the threads. Back then, I was considered a Troll for my outspoken views and calling people pussies for whining about what their wives wouldn't do. I know you long-time RSC guys remember. 80% of the members hated my guts, 20% were faithful followers. I think those numbers have reversed since I got ordained. I'm a kinder, gentler Father Pobasturd now. Admittedly, it's not as entertaining this way.

[NCB]

If we were all alike, the world would be a boring place!

[NCB]

If you have a problem like I was having, I would first start with the tire and wheel before anything else. Then work your way through the brakes, rotors, forks and steering.
See the warning commander 3 post. The tire was my problem!