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Help no power!?!?

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  • Help no power!?!?

    So I road up the way about 55 miles to a pool hall to have a couple cold ones with my Marine brothers on our 244th birthday last Sunday. When leaving I insert key, turn and nothing. No lights, no dash, absolutely nothing. Had to trailer it home.

    Check the battery and it’s sitting at 12.7 volts.
    Checked fuses all are good
    Checked wiring for loose connections and wear, none found.

    Any other ideas?

    2004 R* no major electrical mods just shaved turn signals and extended wires for 16” apes.
    Die Living

  • #2
    I know you said all fuses good but it sounds like a bad main fuse. That would be the 30 amp fuse.1 of them is the main fuse and the other is a spare.

    Comment


    • ColorBlind
      ColorBlind commented
      Editing a comment
      I checked both 30 amp fuses but both are good.

    • Spydr
      Spydr commented
      Editing a comment
      How about your battery cables?
      Are they Clean & Tight?

  • #3
    Ground cable from battery where it attaches to the top of the oil tank just below the dip stick?

    Comment


    • ColorBlind
      ColorBlind commented
      Editing a comment
      Haven’t checked that location. But, all other battery connections are tight and clean. I went through the headlight bucket, under the dash/speedometer under the gas tank, connections at the hand controls, rear break. It’s in Neutral so the kickstand shouldn’t be an issue. But most of these shouldn’t stop power when you turn the ignition key.

    • Spydr
      Spydr commented
      Editing a comment
      Damn Man... This is a Head Scratcher!

    • Bikerron
      Bikerron commented
      Editing a comment
      Worth a look on the ground.

      You’re right. Should power up the standard stuff when you turn the key on.

      Time to break out the volt meter.

  • #4
    Kill Switch? Usual culprit. Ether off ( I took a bike all apart before I noticed someone had walked by and hit the kill switch) or the kill switch is shorted, had that too.
    It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

    Comment


    • davej
      davej commented
      Editing a comment
      He should still have power to everything except the starter with the kill switch pushed. I went out to the garage and checked mine to make sure.lol

    • MikeyC
      MikeyC commented
      Editing a comment
      Oh, I guess I could have done that. I thought it cut all power, my drifter did.

  • #5
    What’s the possibility of the ignition going bad and not making the connection? Anyone ever had that happen?
    Die Living

    Comment


    • davej
      davej commented
      Editing a comment
      Remember that all power goes into the starter relay and is distributed from there. Follow the power from there and see where it stops.

  • #6
    I bought a Starter solenoid/relay on E-bay a while back and installed the cheap Chinese piece of junk.. Turned the switch on and everything was dead. I disassembled it and everything in it was loose and did not fit up properly... I threw it away and got an OEM. Like Dave said start at the relay and chase it down.

    Comment


    • Bikerron
      Bikerron commented
      Editing a comment
      Good luck finding an OEM now. EVERYONE has them on back order. Even Partzilla keeps pushing the date back every other day for availability. This has been going on since late October and I’m dead in the water.

  • #7
    How old is bat tree

    Comment


    • ColorBlind
      ColorBlind commented
      Editing a comment
      I’ll take a stab and say... the bat tree is 40yrs old. Lol

  • #8
    Originally posted by brianmac View Post
    How old is bat tree
    lol

    Comment


    • #9
      Just buy a used oem one on ebay if you are stuck.

      Comment


      • #10
        voltage is not a good indicator of bat tree condiion, cranking voltage is tho. a dead bat tree will always show voltage. have u tried jumping it? you said u extended wires for 16 in apers, theres a lot of mfin wires in there, one short or wrong is all u need. it was a real PIA to get all that inside my 16 in apes without damaging wires, i used western union, staggered, soldered, heat shranked splices in mine. took a LOT of hours
        splice types:
        https://www.electricneutron.com/wiri...uctor-splices/

        Comment


        • #11
          https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Rel...ss!95125!US!-1 This one is not a chinese.. I replaced with one of these.

          Comment


          • #12
            I found the culprit is was a frayed wire to the main fuse that I guess finally broke. How it broke is beyond me. All is good now but, dammmmmn.

            Brianmac- I did the same with my apes back in 2009. It’s was a long a laborious process. Silicon spray helped a little. I cheeped out and got Flanders 1” bars. Next time I’m getting 1-1/4” at least.
            Die Living

            Comment


            • #13
              It’s been awhile since I had been in here. Glad to see some of the same names and same help from before the transfer.

              thanks L&R
              Die Living

              Comment


              • #14
                Glad to see you found it. Electrical issues can be hard to help with over a forum when it is more than a simple fuse issue. I take it you either just looked at the fuse or you checked continuity thru the fuse when you checked it. IMO the best way to check a fuse is to check for voltage on each side of the fuse with a volt meter or check with a simple test light.

                Comment

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