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Davej dyno results

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  • davej
    replied
    What exhaust are you running? Also who's heads are you using?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gizmoinok
    replied
    very nice numbers im pushin 95hp with similar tourqe numbers with a 110 kit and upgraded mikuni

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	89155 Here is mine with both cylinders removed and engine still in the frame.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spydr
    commented on 's reply
    Sorry then. Must have been someone else that had that work done.

  • Bones
    replied
    Thank You, I already ordered the gaskets- this is good news, winter work is going to get interesting...

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    The motor does not have to come out of the frame to install pistons, You would need Cylinder base and head gaskets at minimum. The valve cover gasket and rocker plate gasket may be able to be re-used.Stock bore hc pistons will add some decent power. Here are Dyno sheets published by Yamaha using their Speedstar stage kits. Click image for larger version

Name:	all dynos post.jpg
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ID:	89147

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  • Bones
    replied
    This has my interest, I recently picked up a high compression piston kit for a 1600 ( 2001 Silverado ). The carb is jetted, I have V&H Pipes and a Dyna 3000. I am not sure if I should take the plunge and install these pistons or leave it alone as she runs great and everything is dialed in. Im not looking for a crazy race bike, but I like some power, any suggestions ? I am on the fence, looks like your an expert here and Im not sure what the actual difference would be if I install. Do you think I can pull it off with the motor in the frame?
    Thx

    Leave a comment:


  • Mikegoat2497
    commented on 's reply
    Can this be done? I may go this way if it is...

  • davej
    commented on 's reply
    I didn't have any crank work done. I only did jugs/pistons.cam.carb and did a little DIY porting. I didn't split the case.

  • Spydr
    commented on 's reply
    Duke, I'm sure Dave will correct me if I'm wrong...
    But I seem to remember that he had the crank lightened & balanced when the did the original big bore job.

  • davej
    replied
    Bikerron the pull was done in 4th. gear . That is the gear that was used in all the dynos I've had done. I would like to see a dyno form someone with the same mods but with the heads done by Patrick racing. My guy said there was nothing left on the table as far as the porting goes. There was nothing left to take out on the intake/exhaust ports. He had it was far as you would want to take it. I think if I had it to do again I would not have put in the larger valves. That would have increased the velocity and possibly raised the numbers.Or at least moved the TQ/hp to hang on a little longer in the curve. Then again I will never know and chasing 1-2 numbers isn't worth the trial and error$$ that you could get wrapped up in finding out.lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Bikerron
    commented on 's reply
    What gear was used in the readings. Being that the last two are over driven I’m wondering if it affects the final results.

  • Duke
    replied
    Thank you Dave,
    The information is very interesting and gives me good info for a engine build.
    I’d be interested seeing numbers on a lighten crank shaft engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    I know Patrick Racing has claims of higher numbers but I don't know where he is getting them. I do know that I have a little loss (4-5 hp) from his numbers due to my Bassani dual exhaust compared to his numbers are produced with a 2-1 Pro pipe. I also think his numbers are based more towards a Warrior that has a completely different head design that will produce more power. Also wondering if his numbers are produced using a different smoothing on the dyno. With the smoothing turned off mine produced just over 92 hp and 115 tq. But that is just a number that it hit for a millisecond and not a good average number (true usable) that is produced using smoothing. Other than exhaust I don't see where I left anything on the table that would make any significant difference to make up the numbers Patrick claims.

    Leave a comment:


  • jd750ace
    replied
    Nice!

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    commented on 's reply
    Mine started life as a 1700. But the 1600 is a 110 also after the kit.

  • Jclevesque
    replied
    Nice to see you got concrete results and are pleased with them. Pretty cool the 1600 mill can get good numbers as long as you got some bucks to spend! JC

    Leave a comment:


  • LDofDC
    replied
    Great info!! Thanks for sharing it! I haven't seen any other post like this one, thanks for your time invested!!

    Leave a comment:


  • davej
    replied
    15 would be a bit lean at cruise but still safe. 14 is a good all around cruise/economy afr. Best tq comes in at about 13. - 13.5 and wot should be as low as in the 11's. Mine dips into the mid 11's on wot with the acc pump squirt and comes out of it and shows on the wot run at 13.21 AFR @3850 rpm. My 65 mph run afr is 13.95 and idle is 13.59 - 13.80 the fluctuation is due to the cam at idle. That is about as perfect as can be expected.

    Leave a comment:


  • fastjohnny
    replied
    I can't quite read what the numbers are for the AFR. From what I've read in the past the AFR needs to be 14 - 15 for best results.

    Leave a comment:

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