Heads ported and polished

[Phil L]

I finally got the heads finished on my R*.

The port and polish was done by myself after getting a quote for $2,000 for the job from one of the few that would actually give me a quote.

After watching numerous YouTube videos on the subject, especially one from Shortblock Charlie, I purchased a die grinder and a few burrs thinking that my years as a printing graphic artist would hold me in good stead for the sculpting work on the heads.

My mistake was using the dies too much to speed up the process, as I decided to take all the carbon deposits off with them rather than using the emery paper rolls.

The next week was spent carefully removing the marks left from the burrs and still maintaining the contours that I had originally intended for the ports.

Pretty happy with the finished product though.

Really impressed with those that can get a mirror finish on their exhaust ports, it would take me a solid week of work for that level of finish.

The only hiccup, other than that, was losing one of the valve spring retainers and the collets when my valve spring compressor decided to let go at full compression spraying the three parts to different locations throughout my garage. Took a full day and a half to find them, the garage is now the cleanest it's ever been.

Decided to give them a coat of black paint to match the barrels, and to polish the fins while I had the chance.

Can't wait to put it all back together and get it on the road.

Should have plenty of grunt with the 1700 barrels, OE heavy duty valve springs and the PR high compression pistons.

[davej]

Short block Charlie (Pro 1 Racing) did mine and also installed 2mm oversized valves with a multi cut valve job. I attempted to do my own also and did a pretty nice job and dyno results showed a big improvement. But my dyno results after Charlie did his magic was fantastic. You have the combustion chamber to smooth, it needs to be rougher for turbulence in that area. Take a look at my pics of the finish Charlie put on mine. Also the intake valve seat grind profile and a rocker mod a couple of us done to get rid of some top end noise. on a 1700. I see you have a 1600 contact "Duke" for the info on how to do this mod on a 1600. [IMG]<a class="vglnk" href="https://www.roadstarclinic.com/core/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==[/IMG]" rel="nofollow"><span>https</span><span>://</span><span>www</span><span>.</span><span>roadstarclinic</span><span>.</span><span>com</span><span>/</span><span>core</span><span>/</span><span>image</span><span>/</span><span>gif</span><span>;</span><span>base64</span><span>,</span><span>R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP</span><span>///</span><span>wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw</span><span>==[/</span><span>IMG</span><span>]</span></a> [IMG]<a class="vglnk" href="https://www.roadstarclinic.com/core/image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP///wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==[/IMG]" rel="nofollow"><span>https</span><span>://</span><span>www</span><span>.</span><span>roadstarclinic</span><span>.</span><span>com</span><span>/</span><span>core</span><span>/</span><span>image</span><span>/</span><span>gif</span><span>;</span><span>base64</span><span>,</span><span>R0lGODlhAQABAPABAP</span><span>///</span><span>wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw</span><span>==[/</span><span>IMG</span><span>]</span></a>

[Lug Nut]

Are you using aftermarket camshaft? If not why would you be using such a stiff spring??

[davej]

he could get a higher RPM out of it safely with a heavy spring. I'm not 100% sure but that might help with HC pistons even without a cam. Or for a future cam he will have the springs done. but will still need to install adjustable pushrods and collapsible pushrod tubes

[Lug Nut]

he could get a higher RPM out of it safely with a heavy spring. I'm not 100% sure but that might help with HC pistons even without a cam. Or for a future cam he will have the springs done. but will still need to install adjustable pushrods and collapsible pushrod tubes

I was thinking they'd be tense enough to just cause issues and wear things out. But since I'm looking at doing high compression pistons and I do have the Orient Express Springs I was kind of wondering about doing both at once or just waiting and using stock springs until I can find cams.

[Phil L]

he could get a higher RPM out of it safely with a heavy spring. I'm not 100% sure but that might help with HC pistons even without a cam. Or for a future cam he will have the springs done. but will still need to install adjustable pushrods and collapsible pushrod tubes

That's what I was thinking.

There have been reports of valve bounce starting around the 5,000 to 5,500 RPM mark.

When I dyno it, if the usuable power band remains high over the 5,000 rev range, I would like to take the revs over that without the risk of valve bounce.

If higher lift cams come up for sale again for the 1600, the heads and valve train are ready for them.

I wish I could have got some areas of the inlet a bit smoother but I didn't go any finer on the inlets than 60 grit when sanding. Still a definite rough finish in there

[davej]

I have mine set at 5500. It's screamin at that high of RPM but mine has useable power up that way.

[Duke]

After porting these 1600 heads, I installed them on 1700 jugs that were bored to make a 108ci engine using PR JE pistons. Using the stock CV carburetor, ignition box, cams, push rods, valves, and valve springs, this engine really came alive while still getting 44+ mpg fuel milage. I'm not getting any spark-knock and feel the combustion chamber modification really helped out this engine, along with running colder spark plugs. No dyno numbers, but lots of smiles every mile.

[Phil L]

What is the cut out between the exhaust ports Duke?

[Duke]

The cut outs are to help induce a swirl from the quench area during the compression stroke. They also help lower the compression for today's fuel.
This is part of a experimental engine build and tryouts. So far I find this is working out, but will know more as I put more miles on it.

[Phil L]

Our fuel in Australia is 91 RON as our standard, equivalent to 87 octane, so I don't think that I would need to lower the compression to suit our fuel.

In my circumstance, cutting the divot between the exhaust valves would somewhat defeat the purpose of putting higher compression pistons in.

What compression ratio are you looking for Duke?

[Duke]

If your fuel 87 octane and running 10.5 to 1 compression, then I would think your running on the edge for pre-ignition, "spark knock". I'm thinking that my engine is at around 10 to 1 compression, so I run 90+ octane fuel. If I have to run 87 octane, then I run accordingly to keep from pre-ignition. If it's a hot day, it's better to run better fuel.

[davej]

When my heads were ported he also flattened my heads (milled) I forget how much he said but I do remember he said it was enough to raise the compression about 1/4 compression. My pistons are 10.25:1 so now my compression is just a bit higher. But probably not enough to notice.

[Duke]

With the cuts on my heads, I'm fairly sure that it didn't lower the compression by much. Maybe by .25