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Design, Build, and Marketing of a Road Star 'Crate Engine'?

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  • Design, Build, and Marketing of a Road Star 'Crate Engine'?

    I just mentioned this to Duke in his 98-108 engine upgrade, but then it fired off a thought about upgrades.

    Anyone given thought to producing a crate engine for the general marketplace? How many R*'s are on the road?

    I'm talking about a solid, dependable, performance engine that would generally swap into any Roadie.

    Could such an animal be designed, or would there need to be separate builds for a carb vs. FI motor? Will a 1700 bolt into a 1600 chassis?

    As I see what some of you guys come up with, it seems like I'd need a machine shop in my building to take some of this on, and I don't have time or space for that. But a complete motor swap would definitely be a temptation.

    So what would be the ideal build for a crate engine? Crank, clutch, pistons, cam, barrel, heads, carb/FI, ignition, or whatever? Engine mounts? Trans mods?

    It would also turn into a pretty solid parts outlet, considering everything that would be pulled in favor of the upgrades.

    I, for one, would be interested. I'd assume that Duke, davej, or some of you others might find something like this in your wheelhouse. How compatible would the different engine cores be to such an enterprise? Ideally I'm referencing pre-built motors which are sent out in a crate, upon which the buyer would return his core in exchange of the modded engine.

    I'd probably favor an FI engine rather than carbed, but can one be strapped into my frame and electronics?

  • #2
    https://www.pacificcoaststar.com/pcs...tar_engine.htm

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    • #3
      http://shop.patrickracingbillet.com/..._Big_Bore_Kits

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      • #4
        No need. All the parts are already available and you would NOT get hardly any customers that would drop $10k on a complete PR style 110 cube motor with heads, cams, big bore kit, HSR 42/45 set up, special manifold, all the supporting mods etc. And when your all said and done you less than 100hp to the tire you can buy a used liner like I did ($2k) and with afternarket exhaust, $60 K&N filter (leaving air bix lid off)
        ​​and a $375 Ivan's flash I have 105 hp and 126 lb/torque to the tire WITHOUT TOUCHING THE MOTOR.

        ANY number of cruiser style bikes are faster/more powerful than a fully built Road Star xv1600/1700...so trying to create a drop in motor package (and yes with all the good stuff, parts, labor, some type of warranty and installation) for $10k....to be used on a $3-5k used bike wouldn't make sense. A M109R, Liner/Raider, Vulcan 2000 would all stock be about as fast....and could buy for $2-6k used.

        I love my 3 Road Stars and all have common hop up mods....but wouldn't put tons of $ into making it fast....not a good return on money-for-value for me.

        Doing the work yourself with used parts or parts you get killer deals on is fun...if I found a big bore kit or cams/pistons etc ..I would put them in one of my bikes. But stroking a big check for a "package" on a bike work $3-5k wouldn't make sense to me.
        LET'S RIDE

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        • #5
          If you wanted a big bore complete kit in your Road Star....I would definitely check if Dave or Duke would take on the project...pay them to do the whole job and have it done right...that would be the ticket for sure. Start looking for parts and pieces....or better yet find a DOCUMENTED big bore Road Star for sale (every once in a while I see them) and snag it up.
          LET'S RIDE

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          • #6
            If someone would pay 10k for a big bore, I’d ask, How many do you want?
            Patrick Racing is now charging $1495. For the big bore kit. No cams, or head work in this kit, just the big bore.
            When it comes to restroking the crank, then that would be the time to open up your wallet and blow off the cop webs.
            As for the interchangeably, the 1600 and the 1700 engine lower ends are all the same. I believe that the 1700 Warrior is the same lower end, but the transmission gears are a little different.

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            • #7
              I talked to a guy that dropped off his bike at Patrick racing many years ago and his total bill was a shade over $9,000. That was a 110 cube with their heads hand porting cams exhaust HSR carb all set up everything done in house.Just the big bore kit isn't very expensive but all the labor and all the extras plus the camshafts the push rod tubes the pistons etc and then the carburetor being set up with the proper air filter and exhaust system etc. But the time you get it all said and done with all the goodies today I'm sure it would be $10,000 with their shop rate.But obviously if you had a mast the parts used or it good deals and had a knowledgeable person that would do all the work for maybe $1,500 that would be fantastic
              LET'S RIDE

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              • #8
                Somewhere I saw a article or post where someone stuffed a warrior 1900 into a RS... buying a used motor would likely be cheaper especially if you could get a basket case wrecked one. Isn't it essentially the same cases and such as our R* motors?
                2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

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                • #9
                  Warriormis a 1700...the xv1900 too tall to fit ..but boy is it a good motor...
                  LET'S RIDE

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Lug Nut View Post
                    Warrior is a 1700...the xv1900 too tall to fit ..but boy is it a good motor...
                    A warrior motor would be a lot more power though. I was sure I saw something about a 1900 in a Roadstar though..
                    2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

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                    • #11
                      People have tried to put a 1900 in a Roadstar but you have to cut the backbone of the frame because it's such a tall motor and then the issue is the air intake box sits on top of the intake on top of the motor so the gas tank would be approximately 114 ft in the air lol
                      LET'S RIDE

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                      • #12
                        I am surprised we have not seen more warrior 1700 motor swaps into the XV chassis. One would think that would be more direct.
                        LET'S RIDE

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                        • #13
                          The heads are different in all 3 motors, but the blocks, “cases”, are the same.
                          The Warrior has different ports on both the intake and exhaust, and the rockers have a 1.4 ratio. I think the valve cover are the same as the 1700 RS.
                          The 1900 is a whole other beast, and the cases are different. I don’t know of any parts that are interchangeable.

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                          • #14
                            So it sounds like a solid Warrior motor makes the most sense? I was thinking a guy could get a solid crate for around $5k (exchange). Shows what I know.

                            Nothing wrong with my motor now, low miles, but I'd be tempted if I could do a pretty simple Warrior swap and then sell off my motor to help offset the costs. Not sure it would be worth the effort though, other than FI rather than carb, plus a bit more grunt.

                            Maybe if I chunked a piston or something...

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                            • #15
                              Another quick thought; is valve float the only real issue with upping the RPM? I know the 4750 would be better than my current 4250, but is 5000 taking it too far with the current valve springs? If I went to better springs would that cover upping the RPM even higher, or stopping at the 5000? I'm actually pretty happy with the general grunt and performance of my bike now, with RPM being my chief complaint since I occasionally bump up against the limiter. My last bike ran around 12k so I'm still forcing myself to dial-down a bit, even when just cruising around.

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Originally posted by MidnightRide View Post
                                Another quick thought; is valve float the only real issue with upping the RPM? I know the 4750 would be better than my current 4250, but is 5000 taking it too far with the current valve springs? If I went to better springs would that cover upping the RPM even higher, or stopping at the 5000? I'm actually pretty happy with the general grunt and performance of my bike now, with RPM being my chief complaint since I occasionally bump up against the limiter. My last bike ran around 12k so I'm still forcing myself to dial-down a bit, even when just cruising around.
                                Can get a 05-06 cdi and raise rev limiter to 4750bwhisbis a nice boost for sure. A Dyna 2000 or 3000 can also raise it to 5k which is max you would ever want for stock valvetrain.
                                LET'S RIDE

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