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2008 road star s wont stay straight above 50mph

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  • Brenden lesage
    commented on 's reply
    Thats what im asking. I just rebuilt front forks and added progressive springs, changed my neck bearings. Ever since it seems to wobble. i believe neck bearings are good due to passing flop test but my forks........ dont know how to align them correctly. was seeking advise.

  • roadiemort
    commented on 's reply
    And how does that take out any twist from the top to bottom?

  • Brenden lesage
    replied
    How do I align my tripple tree clamps? Just Keep the height of the shock tubes flush with top of tripple tree?

    Leave a comment:


  • oldschoolchopper
    commented on 's reply
    indeedy bro , i took a trip today about 300 miles felt amazing , thank you . you and hot rod nailed it of course i appreciate everyone's helped and suggested solutions ....

  • jd750ace
    replied
    Glad you got it sorted out. Feels good, huh?

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  • oldschoolchopper
    replied
    UPDATE ....finally i got it right , did the stem bearing by feel / fall away test /flop test . it start falling after the 2/3 of the steering travel . i checked the torque just to know where i am at ,,,,,and it was @ 19.5 ft/lbs .... which proves what hotrod and jd750ace were saying preload torque should be done by feel , forget the numbers !!....THNAKS to all of you guys for the help and thoughts

    Leave a comment:


  • oldschoolchopper
    replied
    Originally posted by jd750ace View Post
    If you get the middle 1/3 of your steering travel to not flop, then still have your issue, the neck is not the cause of your issue. With the overturning moment and added weight above the stem of excessively long handlebars, you probably cannot get a clean pass. If your bars are angled forward relative to the steering stem you have an unstable relationship between the axle and the tiller point. Your grips should be a minimum of 5 inches behind the stem. They should equal the axle offset, or be more than the trail, in other words, to achieve good stability and control.
    I have Adjusted the handle bars moved it back just a bit , , readjusted the fork heights in top clamps (flat with the top clamps on both side ), took some torque off the stem bearing no wrench torque just by feel .... went for a ride , HUGE DIFF below 50 mph pulls to the left a bit [email protected] 70 mph straight like an arrow , above 70 mph i get that wiggle in handle bar not as a bad . flop test wise , it start falling half way of the first 1/3 . , i think its almost there , matter of loosing or tighten that stem bearing a hair . thanks to all of you i start to enjoy my rides again

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  • oldschoolchopper
    commented on 's reply
    that make sense , I am going to adjust my handle bars and see if it helps , i have been messing with the stem bearing torque , (without a torque wrench ) by feel and its getting better more stable , now that you mentioned the handle bars position which it make perfect sense i am going to adjust it thank you guys , will keep you updated and sorry for the delay .

  • oldschoolchopper
    commented on 's reply
    yes they are the same height

  • jd750ace
    replied
    If you get the middle 1/3 of your steering travel to not flop, then still have your issue, the neck is not the cause of your issue. With the overturning moment and added weight above the stem of excessively long handlebars, you probably cannot get a clean pass. If your bars are angled forward relative to the steering stem you have an unstable relationship between the axle and the tiller point. Your grips should be a minimum of 5 inches behind the stem. They should equal the axle offset, or be more than the trail, in other words, to achieve good stability and control.

    Leave a comment:


  • jd750ace
    replied
    I agree with Rod. Especially if the vertical on your bars is not parallel with the fork tubes, monkey bars create an overturning moment that makes it hard to set.

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  • HotRod
    replied
    Put your torque wrench away. Tighten or loosen the lower stem nut by feel. The Torque is NOT that important when using the "Flop Test," it's more important when seating the races. With your 18" Apes, I would rather have it slightly bounce off the stop than not get there, but if you adjust the nut by "feel" you should be able to dial it in, just my opinion on that.

    Rod

    Leave a comment:


  • Txulrich
    replied
    Originally posted by oldschoolchopper View Post
    After changing the stem bearings by a local motorcycle shop the bike wants to steer left or right above 50mph , it's like a fish lol swimming in slow motion LOL ,I have to move my weight left or right to keep it straight.... I have torqued the bearing to 37ft then loosing it then preload 13ft/lbs ,had some play when rocking the forks back and forth so I kept adding preload to it I am at 17ft/lbs now no more play but the handle bars wont fall down to the stopper from the center it need a push half way for it to fall on its own gently to the stopper . the tires are Michelin commander 2 less than 300 miles on them 40psi both balanced with dyna beads never had an issue with bike until they changed the stem bearing , ive checked the alignment on rear wheel its good , checked the front brakes figured maybe the rotors dragging or a sticky pistons causing the issues ! they were fine and cleaned them anyway, changed front wheel bearings too .I am not sure what could be the issue !!! any thoughts would be appreciated ,
    I had a similar problem with the Commander II. It felt like I was riding on grooved pavement all of the time. After doing everything that you're checking (torque, alignment, tire pressure, balance, etc.), I ended up changing to a Metzler 888. Problem solved (for me).

    Leave a comment:


  • jd750ace
    replied
    Are the tops of the fork tubes the same height above the top triple?

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  • oldschoolchopper
    commented on 's reply
    no , using dyna beads

  • jd750ace
    replied
    Are there any balance weights on the front wheel?

    Leave a comment:


  • oldschoolchopper
    commented on 's reply
    brand new tires 40 psi front /rear , just did fork/triple clamps alignment as jd750ace suggested , made huge diff bike runs great @ 60 mph... above that on highway I get a wiggle in front not as bad as it was before the alignment but still annoying .

  • oldschoolchopper
    commented on 's reply
    just did fork/ triple clamps alignment AND WHAT A DIFF it made not pulling left nor right now , only highway speed above 60mph , I get that wiggle in front not a bad one but its annoying I am @ 18 ft/lbs stem bearing wise . the bars fall from center nice and smooth but it does bounce off the stopper , not sure take some preload off or add to it , once again thx JD

  • Jeaston
    replied
    New tires, old tires? ( inflated to x) Is the rear wheel centered? Loosen the front axle bolt then tighten when the bike on the ground (preload) and upright.
    I'm just shooting in the dark.

    Leave a comment:


  • oldschoolchopper
    commented on 's reply
    that's why i am here , i'd rather work on my motorcycles myself always have , only reason let them work on it cause i had 3 broken ribs and A PINKY LOL at that time .......and honestly i am avoiding going back to that local shop if you know what i mean . , i just did fork /triple clamb alignment . tomorrow will take it for a ride and see how it handle , will keep you guys updated

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