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1999 Roadstar Silverado - usually dependable but can be cranky

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  • 1999 Roadstar Silverado - usually dependable but can be cranky

    My ride is amazing and has always been reliable up until this week. I was getting ready to move it to storage before the winter snow sets in here in Mississauga, Ont, Canada but she wouldn't crank. The battery was flat so I tried boosting from a car battery without success. I put the battery on a charger for 2 days and then re-installed it. When I turned on the ignition a heard a continuous clicking sound coming from the right side cover. It won't crank. I removed the battery to charge some more.

    Any ideas what the clicking might be?

  • #2
    What weight oil is in it? Your battery sounds pooched, the solenoid is clicking cause not enough juice getting to it, I could be wrong but much smarter folks will chime in I'm sure. I am close to you though from Mississauga also..

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Roadiemort. I've got 10/40 in it. The battery is only 2 years old but that's what I was thinking and trying to deny to myself. I guess maybe a new battery is in my future. When I plug in my Battery Tender, the light shows charged after 20 - 30 minutes. This tells me that it's not taking a charge.

      Thanks for re affirming my believes. Now to find a battery so I can put Old Blue away for the winter.

      Comment


      • roadiemort
        roadiemort commented
        Editing a comment
        Where in Mississauga are you? 403 & Erin Mills area here.

    • #4
      Sounds like battery is shot to me. Throw a new one in and go from there

      Comment


      • #5
        from California. Yep, sounds like battery to me too... Sadly, batteries no longer have the longevity they once did. Why sell one battery that lasts 5-6 years when you can sell 2 or 3 in the same time frame? It used to be you could easily get a 3 year warranty, and even Yuasa only offers 12 months now. Also, from what I hear, if you have a gel mat battery, they don't hold up as well with a tender, since they have less liquid than old lead acid, they evaporate more easily.
        Last edited by Doc_V; 5 days ago.

        Comment


        • #6
          You need to fully charge that battery and then bypass the electrical system directly to the starter be careful make sure it's in neutral. This can be dangerous but use a jumper cable or a fat wire if it doesn't crank over that way then you know your battery is bad and I'm going to throw in here deka batteries AgM is all I will buy. You can also buy them on eBay remember to your house and be surprised how fast an inexpensive I would not wish my one money on a battery you have to add your own acid to it . I'm getting four five six years out of these even with short six Mile trips all year long

          Comment


          • #7
            Hey Roadiemort. I'm in Winstonchurchill/Royal Windsor area.

            Comment


            • #8
              Thank you for the help. What do you think of the Lightning Start Batteries? 500 CCA and 20 Ah

              Comment


              • roadiemort
                roadiemort commented
                Editing a comment
                I can throw a stone from where I am lol.

              • roadiemort
                roadiemort commented
                Editing a comment
                DaveJ bought one of those a few years back, maybe he will see this and comment.

            • #9
              Interesting that even a jump from a car battery didn't work... unless the car battery was also weak, and/or, your jumper connection was poor. A good car battery, and good jumper cable connection should have been enough. Did you only get clicks from the solenoid when jumping from a car battery, too?

              Comment


              • #10
                Hi Questcap! I would get clicks but also the occassional crank of one spin. That was it. Maybe the bike battery was pulling it down?

                Comment


                • #11
                  thats why you need to go directly to starter as aforementioned, to rule out faulty components in the middle.

                  Comment


                  • #12
                    Do you have a volt meter? Using a volt meter will check the battery voltage at rest and voltage while cranking, That will tell the state of the battery. Then check voltage at both sides of the starter relay. If you have voltage at only 1 side of the starter relay when you are pushing the starter button, the relay is bad. If you have voltage at both sides of the starter relay when pushing the start button check for voltage at the starter. The cranking voltages at all these areas should be at or near the voltage at the battery. If you have proper voltage at the starter the issue is with the starter. That is easily resolved most of the time by cleaning carbon out of the brush area or installing new brushes. Without using a meter you may as well stand back about 10 feet and throw your wallet at it.

                    Comment


                    • cjm
                      cjm commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The wallet is kind of light. I better move in a bit.

                    • cjm
                      cjm commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I'll connect my fluke and perform the tests you mentioned. Thanx for the help.

                  • #13
                    im gonna add, if u are in the starter, carefully inspect the starter brush plate for hairline cracks at the 90 degree bends in the brass,, ive had 2 of them fail. granted I ride EVERY DAY, short jaunts of 4-6 miles. . but after a lot of hassle, i figured it out. But just getting a new parts or a new battery without knowing the problem can be costly as dave stated.

                    Comment


                    • cjm
                      cjm commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I'll look for cracks. First I need to get this bike indoors. It's cold out and snow is coming tommorrow.

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