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  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    I know the guy with that 1005 hp volvo. Many of those volvo maniacs come from here. Must be something in the water....

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  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2EL0fcGv-g

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhVpJRMsrgQ

    Those kind of thing make me go wow I've been on 750hp volvo v40 and e55amg mercedes etc and they both make me giggle like a little girl. From the massive grunt of the Amg to the volvos never ending acceleration.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    That is true. Even older Hayabusas over 170hp is more than enough for take overs. Still any cruiser with 100hp or more takes it from 0-60 or goes the same. Meaning anybody who has tried a hard start with a with a plastic bullet knows it's not just gas and flipping the clutch. I sure know. With a muscle cruiser you can take off easily without your front looking at the clouds. Again it's about what you want. Put 4k in a 500euro priced car and get 500-600hp, or buy a 50k lamborghini and lose to any over 400hp built car on everything but 0-60 or corner speed. My 99 volvo T4 only had 300hp but from 100-200km/h it was a second faster than my bosses panamera with over 100hp more. Sure the lambo or porche is relax to drive those speeds but come on... it is a bit embarressing . Lambo or Panamera could get you laid more thou....

    Anyway the more popular bikes (like busa and katanas) have reasonable priced turbo bolt on kits right here in Finland. At my town its only about 2.5k and you get that safe 300hp from busa for example. Killer machines move alot here now days Tops speeds on mile going about 380km/h when my bike's tops out at 208km/h . Stock busa with a light rider goes 320km/h on mile. Then again that 300hp busa goes the same from 0-60 than a stock v-rod or warrior so....
    But i don't even like high speeds. More about that damn factor you get in a car with something else. Instant power or just insane top speed. Anything that gives that WOW feeling is good

    Leave a comment:


  • Lug Nut
    replied
    I can get a used hyabusa for $5k...run so much faster than any cruiser it's unreal

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  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    That is a truck load of money, but let's remember that they are pretty much bolt on kits and are finished pretty well. I Turbocharged mine for about 2000euros, including the clutch etc. and it's all about how well you make it, when it comes to leg room and maintenance. I'm actually surprised I got my parts to fit well enought that nothing needs to come off when doing maintenance :O and no problem with legroom either. Most popular older sport bikes really do have 150hp and only weigh about 190kg, but the ones making over 200hp are way newer and cost much more than turbocharging your own bike yourself. Buuut in the end of it all I think it's all about what you want from your bike.
    Be comfortable riding hundreds of miles a day with a passanger and gear, or blast 3,5s from 0-60 alone. Now I can do both

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  • Lug Nut
    replied
    Shop local to me does turBo kits on Road Stars...about $5k installed....lot of $ for 100 hp bike with added weight/complexity hanging off to one side interfering with leg room......looks neat though.

    I would buy a used 1000-1400 cc sport bike with 200 hp and actually fast for my $

    Leave a comment:


  • roadiemort
    commented on 's reply
    Seek out Aussie Bobby Dyer on Facebook, he did this mod.

  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    Does anyone know what other bikes have direct fitment on 4 piston calipers To xv1600? I understand that the older r1 have a direct fit, but how about warrior? The brakes do their job, but the pads wear unevenly and I just want a bit More power To them

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  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    Btw. I finally managed To rent that house from Norway for a month from mid May on. I'll Take my car, dog and my bike there and enjoy those mountains a bit longer this time. Planning on upgrading the front brakes before that by putting in the r1 brakes. And maby If i'm able To get and install the front springs and emulators also...

    Leave a comment:


  • BubbaKahuna
    commented on 's reply
    One way to avoid that spring launching out is to not remove it, just loosen everything.
    Then hit it with DeOxIt spray. It will chemically remove all the corrosion, clean the metal & protect it from further corrosion.
    Until I used it the first time I couldn't believe the stories about how well it works, but nothing else does what DeOxIt does.
    MUCH better than any 'contact cleaner', by a long shot. Not cheap, but a little goes a very long way.

  • Ypsilonn
    replied

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  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    some pics

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  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    And this goes for the carb only, of course other parts need to be added and maby change the clutch. I'll add the list of parts i have here

    CARB
    -Trim the needle (depends on the turbo size and pitot placement if this is neccessary or not)
    -plug the additional air jet at carb mouth. A small o ring under the srew. It will leak pressure and fuel from here.
    -Plug the bigger breather hose on top of carb. Will leak pressure.
    -Make a plenum. In single carb It doesn't need it to share the air between carbs like in multi carb, but instead it evens the pulses of a big v-twin. Any king of box goes if it fits, and they say it needs to be between 50%-100% engine displacement. Mine is about 1200cc if i remember right. Just make sure the charge pipe connected to it doesn't point towards the carb. This of course would be also unpractical and ugly. One hose needs to go from plenum to 1:1 fuel pressure regulator (boost referenced). This makes sure the pressure keeps above boost level. Size of the hose can be taken from the regulator.
    -Need of changing the jets depends on your turbo and pitot tube location.
    -Pitot tube in a charge pipe between turbo and carb. Smooth 90degree bent 4mm copper pipe (any material works if it can be welded to the pipe) with widened end inside the charge pipe. Like a trumpet. Pointing towards air stream (where turbo is)
    -Take a hose from that pitot tube to the overflow hole in carb float chamber. This keeps the fuel pressure in the float bowl over the boost. And if the pitot is in good place it handles the enrichment =more boost, more fuel.

    TURBO
    -Anything works but yes, size does matter.
    -Mine is a seat leon cupra stock turbo. I suggest you use something with an internal by-pass valve (mine doesn't have one so i had to add a Dump valve on the end of plenum). IE mitsubishi TD04-13T/14T/16T/18T or 19T. Not much size difference between them. I chose my turbo by its AR size and the form of the turbo. So that it could be installed where i wanted.
    -If you don't already know, make sure the turbo is pretty much level. The angle of the turbo body need to be straight so that the oil lines are level! Oil entry on top and return on bottom. And try to avoid over 45degree turns on return line. Pressure side doesn't matter.
    -REMEMBER to add good brackets for the turbo or manifold! I snapped my front cylinder bolts for manifold and had to change the whole head after two years, beacause the bolts could not be taken out.. Now i have solid bracket for the manifold lower end and between that and exhaust.

    OTHER PARTS
    -Oil return line from turbo to engine. I made mine go through the cover on right side where the decompression lever is. Make sure the size of the connection is as big as the hole on turbo. No smaller! And pretty high on the cover.
    -Seals to clutch side cover, right side cover when making oil return.
    -Clutch from barnett. Don't know if new stock could hold. My bike now makes 99hp and 200Nm from the tire so i think the stock might slip. I changed the one with springs and took the stiffest springs they had. 99lb red ones if i remember right. Change the plates while your at it. I didn't and after couple of years and over 100k km its slippeng a bit when cold and full throttle.
    -Jet kit (may not be need it if pitot place is good)
    -1:1 boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. I use Malpassi. This need connections from gas tank, carb, plenum (this gives the pressure that keeps the fuel pressure over boost), return line to gas tank. This line needs to be at least the size of the regulator connection, don't use smaller. The fuel pressure is adjusted from the srew behind regulator. You should leave this to its minimum, beacause it does have some minumum level it doesn't go under. About 0,2bar or so. This means it keeps the fuel pressure 0,2bar above boost ALL the time whatever the boost so no need to adjust it there.
    -high pressure external fuel pump. I have a 255l/h walbro. No, a stock from the bike or many cars will now work. It need to be able to keep the pressure over the boost + the regulator minimum pressure. In my case 0,65+0,2bar (or how much the minimum of the regulator is). Bigger doesn't do harm. all the excessive pressure goes back to tank via return line. Without the 1:1 regulator you would f**k up your carb with the pressure. You can use the stock wire coupler of stock fuel pump. Just cut them and attatch to the new pump. The stock pumps bracket is a good place to put the fuel pump and regulator and fuel filter.
    -WIDEBAND Afr gauge. No, the narrow band doesn't work. Wideband is more expensive but you can adjust your bike with it and it keeps you informed later. Leaks etc. Don't place the sensor immediately after turbo, use a straight part of exhaust if possible. Mine is in outside of a curve and works well thou. For example PLX is a good option. The nut you weld to your exhaust is M18 with 1,5mm rise.
    -Boost-t boost controller by turbosmart. Any controller works, but this is very simple and i have uset these in cars and my bike. Plus it has a minimum pressure valve. Means it doesn't let boost to wastegate before it goes above 0,4bar=maximum boost rise speed.
    -Liquid dampened boost gauge. Any boost gauge works, but the pulses from the engine make it vibrate like hell and you can't tell what it shows if it's not liquid dampened. Hydraulic shops have them. The connection for this needs to be AFTER throttlebody. There is a plug ready for it in the intake maniofold. Use that.
    -Flanges for turbo exhaust and oil return line and manifold. I used the stock flanges that go for the engine, but you can make new ones and save your stock exhaust.
    -Tons of RST curves and some pipe for the manifold. I suggest you make the manifold in two pieces or with one bendy part IF possible. The manifold flange places are not straight and are a bit pain in the ass to fit well.

    GAS TANK
    -Fuel return line on top of tank. I made mine right under the speedometer cover so it's hidden. Some use an adapter that replaces the petcock that uses the reserve line as return line. You'll lose reserve function and that's why i decided to keep the stock petcock. Just remember to remove the filters inside the tank on petcock. These might get sucked flat by the power of the fuel pump. Instead you add a fuel filter in the line after the fuel pump. After beacause the pumps suction is not as effective as pressure. You can use a course filter before but a paper filter is not recommended. Order being " tank->petcock->fuel pump->fuel filter->fuel pressure regulator"
    Empty the tank and fill it with water before doing any welding. Or take it to a professional. I take no responsibility if something goes wrong. Just use every precusion you possibly can to work safely when doing fireworks on gas tanks. Friend of mine exploded his boat tanks even after emptying and filling and emptying it with water 3times.


    OPTIONAL PARTS
    -Intercooler. Not a must but it's good for the engine. Older cars have small ones and choose by its connection so it possible to install. Very small is enough since the boost pressure is very small (0,65bar). Or just have one made like i did.
    -oil cooler. Maby not a must but these are air cooled and all that turbo junk on the side of engine won't help the cooling. I'm actually thinking about love jugs to put on the left side of engine. Haven't had any problems tho. Take the oil for the cooler and turbo from the oil line near the gear lever. Just change the banjo bolt to a double banjo bolt and use soft copper seals between connections. There are these copper seals with copper and rubber that seal very good.
    -31 tooth pulley. Best thing ever if you like to use that power! It made my bike eat more, but also dropped 0-100km/h from 5,2s to 3,5s so i couldn't care less. And it's better on every speed but highway since It used to go 4,5l/100km and now about 5,5l/100km. I'm trying to get hold of Patrick racing if they could tell me the possibility of fitting bigger gear for 5th.
    -Revmaster to rise rev limiter to 5k. Big difference. Didn't make more power there, but now it drops on max power after gear change. Plus now i don't need to tap dance on gear lever when going off the line.
    -Roadwing. Best freaking thing ever! I can tell you the stock shock is crying for help with even this much power. Didn't feel safe even in normal drive. Roadwing was the best thing when it comes to driveability. Front is still stock, but i'll change progressive springs and gold emulators someday.
    -Leave a long fuel line from tank to pump, since you will need to take the tank off many times during building, adjusting and for maintenance later. I can easily lift the tank on a stool for maintenance.

    I think that's about all. Will tell you if i remember something. And i'll put pics that i can find.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ypsilonn
    replied
    Sorry for the long answer time guys. Life's been hectic and haven't been her for a long time. I answered about the carb in pm. But for all who were thinking, i have the stock carb. Just plugged two leak points and pressurized the float chamber and trimmed the needle a bit. It can easily take the pressur

    Leave a comment:


  • texasscott1
    replied
    The only opening to the sealed chamber would be from the turbocharger outlet. Banks makes or made a "hat" for auto carburetors that sealed the carb with inlets for the turbocharger(s). One would also need a higher pressure fuel pump because when the boost approached 2-3 psi our stock pump would stop working.

    With a pull through setup a carburetor is just mounted near the inlet of the turbo and tuned for the extra power. An intercooler can't be used with this setup because the fuel tends to condense in the cooler.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spydr
    commented on 's reply
    I don't know... Perhaps it never occurred to me to seal a carburetor in a sealed chamber. That and the question of how then could it be connected to a turbocharger.
    I'm sure there Is a lot written about it out there, but as I've never had the desire to turbocharge anything, I wouldn't have read any of it.

    Please forgive me for not comprehending your statement.

  • texasscott1
    replied
    There's a lot written about it out there so I don't know what you mean by "Whut???".

    Leave a comment:


  • Spydr
    replied
    texasscott1

    ​​​​​​​

    ... Whut???

    Leave a comment:


  • Bikerron
    replied
    Can’t for the life of me remember what carb he is using.

    Leave a comment:


  • texasscott1
    replied
    It would be a heck of a lot easier to place the carburetor on the intake side of the turbo. The other way would require that the carburetor be sealed in a chamber so it is only exposed to the pressure from the turbocharger.

    Leave a comment:

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