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  • 1999 silverado cams

    Hello. I am a new member and a new bike rider. I bought my first bike and it broke down the first time I really got to ride it. I should have known better than buy my first bike with 78000 miles on it. Any way, turns out the cams and lifters were worn and that caused a hole in the bottom of one of the lifters and it bent a push rod. I have the parts out and need to buy new ones and my question is, where is the best place to buy replacement parts? Are after market kits just as good as OEM? Are there kits out there that will give the bike more power than the OEM parts? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. It looks like I am going to have to learn to work on bikes as I do not have money for a mechanic.

  • #2
    Rockriver power sports. They are the sites sponsor. Hit up bubbakahuna and he can get you straightened away. Their prices are very fair for OEM!

    http://shop.rockriverpowersports.mot...asp?prodtree=0
    "If you don't do it this year, You'll be one year older when you do!"

    Comment


    • #3
      78000 isn't a lot for these bikes. Did the oil pump gear fail?

      Comment


      • #4
        Aftermarket are only available at pacific coast star or patrick racing. The set from Oacific coast star are from Patrick Racing so may as well go right to Patrick. They are performance cams and are about $1200 and add another $400 because you don't have a good core to send them.
        or
        Buy a set of OEM cams from Rock River Powersports. The are the sponsor of this forum. they will be somewhere in the $900 price range plus a set of lifters.

        or

        find a good used set at somewhere like Pinwall cycle for a couple hundred bucks

        I would also find out why they went bad. 78K isn't many miles for a Roadstar. 99's had a weak oil pump drive gear that may have broken. When they break the cam/lifters are the first and usually only thing that is damaged besides the gear itself. The gear is about $45 plus a clutch housing gasket.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks alot guys. This has been helpful. Is this the oil pump drive gear you mentioned?

          DRIVEN GEAR ASSY
          5YU-13360-00-00 (replaces 4WM-13360-00-00)

          Comment


          • #6
            from Athens, Ga.
            Sorry to hear that your Roadie went South on you the first time down the road. Get you a good service manual (I prefer Clymer's for their color-coded wiring diagrams), take your time, & you'll be able to do most anything that needs to be done to your 'scooter. They're simple to work on & respond well to modifications.
            Get in touch with Pinwall Cycles (do that Google thing), They usually have a good selection of used parts. I had my own 'scooter service & repair shop from '08-'13 and bought from them several times. Good people to do business with, good prices. If they don't have what you need, they'll track it down.
            If you'll got the money for new OEM, definitely give Rock River a call. They've been a major factor in keeping The Clinic alive & well.
            Keep us in the loop. Let us know how the rebuild progresses.
            I love the smell of smoked pork in the morning !

            Comment


            • #7
              Just send that POS to me, I will take off your hands. Take the plugs spin the motor over and see if you have oil pressure.
              I have 108000mi on mine. I'm thinking recall not done.







              This space intentionally left blank

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by vhockin1 View Post
                Thanks alot guys. This has been helpful. Is this the oil pump drive gear you mentioned?

                DRIVEN GEAR ASSY
                5YU-13360-00-00 (replaces 4WM-13360-00-00)

                Yes that is the replacement gear part number. You will also need a clutch cover gasket.
                Gasket, Crankcase Cover 1 INCL. IN [+]
                5VN-15451-00-00

                Comment


                • #9
                  An OEM camshaft set is 426 bucks through Rock River. P/N
                  4WM-W1211-02-00
                  The OEM lifters are pretty expensive. I have Sealed Power (Summit Racing house brand) HT2011 lifters in mine. They are 5 bucks or so each and are listed for Dodge 318s. If you have never done cams and lifters before, PLEASE inquire here for wisdom on the process so you have a successful event and go triple the mileage on that baby.


                  Wherever you go in life, ride there if at all possible.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jd750ace View Post
                    An OEM camshaft set is 426 bucks through Rock River. P/N
                    4WM-W1211-02-00
                    The OEM lifters are pretty expensive. I have Sealed Power (Summit Racing house brand) HT2011 lifters in mine. They are 5 bucks or so each and are listed for Dodge 318s. If you have never done cams and lifters before, PLEASE inquire here for wisdom on the process so you have a successful event and go triple the mileage on that baby.
                    ================================================== ===========

                    FYI,from how the cams are listed on the website i have a feeling the cams are $426 " each " & not a pair.

                    The cams are identified in the oem parts diagram on the Yamaha site as being #'s 5 & 13.

                    So new cams look to be $852.26.(OUCH!!!)

                    As already suggested the Mopar 318 lifters are good alt lifter to run in the R*.

                    See below what i cut & pasted from the Rock river website on cams and info on suggested mopar 318 lifters too.

                    And then below that i gave the OP some info on proper ft cam breakin inc proper oil,assem lube abd oil additive to run for breakin too.

                    (Note,maybe he could get a motorcycle scrap yard to pull the cams & lifters out of a l;ow mileage R* for half the cost of new ones).

                    Just ensure the cams & lifter bottoms look good with no gailing/scratches or wear and that they also mark lifters for proper orientaion of which cam lobe each was broken into.
                    #5 CAM SHAFT ASSY
                    4WM-W1211-02-00 (replaces 4WM-12170-00-00)
                    1 $426.13
                    #13 CAM SHAFT ASSY
                    4WM-W1211-02-00 (replaces 4WM-12180-00-00)
                    1 $426.13
                    ================================================== ==============================

                    Regardless if you go used or new cams use proper assembly lube on the cam lobes & lifter faces/bottom like for example from crane cams thats a grey moly paste that stays put till you fire it up.

                    Also ensue for breakin and after breakin you using proper non automtive type oil in your R* that has the proper/required lvl of ZDDP/anti wear agent to fully protect the cams & lifters from prematurely wearing out again.

                    And for new cam/lifter breaking of flat tasppet cams like the R* has some ft cam mfg's stat to not use syn oil for breakin due to it being too slick causing lifters to not rotaste in there bores properly during breaskin process.

                    For breakin use crane's moly assembly lube on cam lobes and lifter bottoms only along with cranes breakin concentrate oil additive & something lkike valvolines std dino 20-50 oil for v-twin bikes (has zddp/anti wear agent in it) riding the bike with little to no idle time so ensure you keep rpm up at any stops you make in the 25-30 min breakin period.

                    Then you dump the breakin oil (that you may think is still fresh & clean but isn't!) and filter because the oil & filter now has plenty of metal contamination in it from breakin which is why to be safe you need to refill new/fresh std dino again (keeping in mind some cam mfgs rec no syn for breakin) and new filter too.

                    And you also need to dump brteakin oil becausesome of the FT cam/lifter breakin additives and assembly lube are not all that wet clutch friendly either so you want to get them oiut of the motor ASAP post cam/lifter breakin or you could end up with clutch slip issues.

                    Could use the Valvoline std dino 20-50 bike oil again for this post cam/lifter breakin oil & filter chance ,then when its time for another oil & filter change thats when you can go back to using full syn bike oil if thats what you normally run.

                    But what ever you do ensure you run oil with proper zddp/anti wear agent lvl (min of 1250-1300ppm to maxc of 1800ppm zddp) at all times in you R* so you dont loose another set of cams & lifters to premature failure.

                    Lastly,like already suggested you also need to ensure your oil pump doesn't have a broken gear issues too.

                    See below for examples of assembly lube,oil additive and oils i rec for breeakin etc.

                    Scott


                    ================================================== =============== Sealed Power HT-2011 - Sealed Power Hydraulic Lifters

                    Click here for more information about Sealed Power HT-2011 - Sealed Power Hydraulic Lifters
                    Compare
                    Lifter, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, AMC/Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Plymouth, Each
                    (8)
                    Part Number: SLP-HT-2011 More Detail...
                    Estimated Ship Date: Today
                    $3.99
                    ================================================== ============================================

                    OIL ADDITIVE

                    Crane Cams 99003-1 - Crane Super Lube Break-In Concentrate


                    Click here for more information about Crane Cams 99003-1 - Crane Super Lube Break-In Concentrate
                    Compare
                    Motor Oil Additive, ZDDP, Engine Oil Break-In-Additive, 8 oz., Each

                    (14)

                    Part Number: CRN-99003-1

                    Crane Super Lube Break-In concentrate is an anti-wear additive formulated with high concentrations of special zinc dithiophosphate to provide sustained protection against cam lobe and lifter scuffing and wear. This oil supplement is to be added to the engine oil for the initial break-in period after the installation of a new camshaft and lifters.

                    ================================================== ================================================== =====


                    ASSEMBLY LUBE FOR CAM LOBES AND LIFTER BOTTOMS/FACES OILY,NOT USED ON SIDES OF LIFTERS,USE MOTOR OIL FOR THAT.

                    EITHER ONE IS OK TO USE.
                    Best Keyword MatchDefault SortProduct Line (a-z)Product Line (z-a)Part Number (a-z)Part Number (z-a)Price (low-high)Price (high-low)New ArrivalsShould Ship By Isky Racing Cams RL-1 - Isky RevLube

                    Click here for more information about Isky Racing Cams RL-1 - Isky RevLube
                    Compare
                    Assembly Lube, Rev-Lube, Moly Sulphide, Engine/Cam, 4 oz., Each

                    (5)

                    Part Number: ISK-RL-1 More Detail...

                    Estimated Ship Date: Today

                    $17.97
                    + CartCrane Cams 99002-1 - Crane Cams Assembly Grease

                    Click here for more information about Crane Cams 99002-1 - Crane Cams Assembly Grease
                    Compare
                    Assembly Lubricant, Camshaft Break-In, 1 oz., Grease, Each

                    (10)

                    Part Number: CRN-99002-1 More Detail...


                    Crane Cams assembly grease by Joe Gibbs Driven provides proven extreme-pressure protection for heavily loaded parts during initial break-in. The unique formula completely dissolves in oil. Crane Cams assembly grease by Joe Gibbs Driven can be used to prelube cams and lifters, and applying it to the piston ring land prevents micro welding during initial engine break-in. It can also be used on wrist pins, distributor gears, pushrods, and valve retainers.


                    ================================================== ============

                    Std dino motor for breakin and 1st post breakin oil & filter change,then after that can go back full syn
                    bike oil of choice if you want.





                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dern shame Yamaha didn’t design roller tappets from the get-go for these engines.



                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That is a lot of good information. Thank you all for the warm welcome and advice/information. It will be sitting a while as I am broke right now. But there are a few used bike parts yards in Houston so I will be out looking. Thanks again.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bikerron View Post
                          Dern shame Yamaha didn’t design roller tappets from the get-go for these engines.
                          ===========================

                          Yup,was thinking the same thing because roller tappets have been around for many yrs now.

                          But the fact is if you always run motorcycle specific oil in the R* that has proper zddp/anti wear agent lvl to properly protect the FT cams/lifters along with doing oil & filter changes on a timely basis the R* motor with FT cams/lifters will go well over 100k miles with no issues with cams/lifters.

                          But we need to keep in mind the same oil lubes not only the hot running R* motor but the trans too that sheers the oils visc too which can beat up the oil dbl time which is why i change oil & filter at 3k miles max with std dino and 4-5k miles max with high quality full syn bike oil from mfg's like spectro,Amsoil,M1 V-twin.

                          I change the xfer case oil 1x yrly or 10k miles which ever comes 1st using M! syn gear oil.

                          Scott

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thing about FT cams is most owners of these bikes wouldn’t know what the hell you’re talking about if it came up in a conversation. Much less, high levels of ZDDP.

                            I wont use any oil less than 1500 ppm of the stuff in my oil. Some say 1200 is sufficient, but that count drops quickly once the oil is put to use. By the time the oil change comes around one would be lucky if there wasn’t less than 900-1000 ppm left to do its thing.



                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Bikerron View Post
                              Thing about FT cams is most owners of these bikes wouldn’t know what the hell you’re talking about if it came up in a conversation. Much less, high levels of ZDDP.

                              I wont use any oil less than 1500 ppm of the stuff in my oil. Some say 1200 is sufficient, but that count drops quickly once the oil is put to use. By the time the oil change comes around one would be lucky if there wasn’t less than 900-1000 ppm left to do its thing.
                              ======================================

                              Your right on the money,1300-1800ppm zddp is best place with be for anti wear agent for ft cams.

                              M1-v-twin 20-50 syn has 1700mm zddp,amsoil 20-50 syn for v-twins has 1400ppm zddp,spectro 20-50 semi blend and full syn for v-twins has 1500ppm,

                              I would not be surprised if people that used improper pass car oil with too low zddp/anti wear agent lvl along with also running oil too long between changes (using up zddp additives in oil) is the driver of majority of ft cam failures in the R* though oil pump gear issue with ealier R*'s could also be an issue with premature cam/lifyter wear too.

                              Scott


                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Originally posted by jd750ace View Post
                                An OEM camshaft set is 426 bucks through Rock River. P/N
                                4WM-W1211-02-00
                                The OEM lifters are pretty expensive. I have Sealed Power (Summit Racing house brand) HT2011 lifters in mine. They are 5 bucks or so each and are listed for Dodge 318s. If you have never done cams and lifters before, PLEASE inquire here for wisdom on the process so you have a successful event and go triple the mileage on that baby.


                                Are you sure that is for the set? The dealer I looked at don't list a set they list them individually. Here is off the fiche that I checked.


                                Camshaft Assembly 1
                                4WM-12170-00-00 4WM-W1211-02-00

                                $450.99



                                Camshaft Assembly 2
                                4WM-12180-00-00 4WM-W1211-02-00

                                $450.99

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  As far as I know they have always been sold as a matched set.


                                  Wherever you go in life, ride there if at all possible.

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Just looked again. Item 5 is the cam set, part number I gave above. It does not list them separately. When I did mine many moons ago I paid 375 bucks for the pair as a set under a single part number.


                                    Wherever you go in life, ride there if at all possible.

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      Originally posted by Bikerron View Post
                                      Dern shame Yamaha didn’t design roller tappets from the get-go for these engines.
                                      I'm glad they didn't. Seems that the most problems HD's have with lifters is the rollers or the roller axles.

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        HD. Pressed cranks. Plastic cam chain tensioners. Dunno about their designers, but something isn’t right. Probably underdesigned their roller tappets, as well.

                                        Roller cams have been around in engines of all breeds for a long time with great success. Seems it’s possible to engineer one with longevity if they put forth the effort.




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