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  • changing out ignition switch

    Need advice before changing out the ignition switch on my 2001 1600

  • #2
    what kind of advice? Are you just replacing with another oem switch?

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    • #3
      Yes it's an OEM change, Earlier I googled the question of changing one out, there was one response from an old group post mentioning a lesson learned about the two mounting bolts then ..... can't seem to find it through the forum search function possibly an old group archive ? Was wondering if these bolts are anti theft etc or if I would need to buy a special tool before I start

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      • #4
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        • daveto
          daveto commented
          Editing a comment
          Damn mort, you are a handy fellow to have around!

        • roadiemort
          roadiemort commented
          Editing a comment
          Actually the manual is much handier.

        • Doc_V
          Doc_V commented
          Editing a comment
          You da man Mort!

      • #5
        Did you buy new parts that come with the shear bolts? Depending on location you can either cut a slot in the shear bolts and use a flat blade impact driver to remove. Or my normal technique 9/10 times is to just spin them out using a center punch and hammer.

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        • #6
          It was just the new ignition switch with two keys. looking at the new switch there are two recessed mounting holes that normally would have Allen cap style bolts dropped in from the top side.

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          • #7
            Thanks for the great information, now to locate and order these shear bolts.

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            • #8
              Is there any reason why I cannot use standard Allen cap bolts ? If not, would one know the size and pitch ? I am eager to getting back on the road

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              • #9
                You can use regular allen bolts. When we rebuilt one we got the shear bolts at the local dealer. They were a couple bucks each. They said they didn't have them then I called back with a pn and they had a box of them

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                • #10
                  Originally posted by StNicolas View Post
                  Is there any reason why I cannot use standard Allen cap bolts ? If not, would one know the size and pitch ? I am eager to getting back on the road
                  8mm x 1.25 Part # 90109-08172-00
                  Attached Files

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                  • #11
                    Thanks, earlier I looked up the part number and were just under $2 each, but the $21 shipping charge and two week delivery took my breath away. My guess was 8mm from looking at the holes, thanks for the pitch size. On the original shear bolt, is 30 mm about right for the length below the head and 35 mm on the hex bolt ?

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                    • #12
                      Originally posted by StNicolas View Post
                      Thanks, earlier I looked up the part number and were just under $2 each, but the $21 shipping charge and two week delivery took my breath away. My guess was 8mm from looking at the holes, thanks for the pitch size. On the original shear bolt, is 30 mm about right for the length below the head and 35 mm on the hex bolt ?
                      No 30mm was too long, stick a straw in the hole and mark it then subtract about a 1/4" cause it's a blind hole. I'm guessing about 25mm.

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                      • #13
                        replace them with bolts from the hardware store there is no reason for them to be something special. Those are just tamper proof bolts.

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                        • #14
                          So I’m fairly new to bikes but am an auto mechanic. How does the fork lock function? If I can unbolt your ignition would I not be able to turn your forks and steal your bike?

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                          • roadiemort
                            roadiemort commented
                            Editing a comment
                            You can snap the fork lock with a couple of good jerks to shear the pin.

                          • daveto
                            daveto commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Thanks I didn’t know that the pin was easy to snap. I guess thats why most bikes also have the other tabs to put a lock through. I assumed that with my forks locked the bike was safer cuz I park where you must steer to roll it away. I figured it was to heavy for most to lift. I have seen sport bikes picked up by 3 people and load in van. You just learned me something.

                        • #15
                          Thanks for everyone's input.

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                          • #16
                            If the bike get stolen the Insurance will pay you more for the bike than you paid for it.

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                            • daveto
                              daveto commented
                              Editing a comment
                              My concern is walking home, that could kill me.

                          • #17
                            If your bike gets stolen and it was not secured properly insurance may not pay anything.
                            It's not that life is so short, it's just that you're dead for so long.---unknown.

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                            • roadiemort
                              roadiemort commented
                              Editing a comment
                              You give adjusters way to much credit.

                          • #18
                            I have taken care of the new ignition switch, turned key, dash lights up, heard fuel pump charge up, pulled choke and hit the starter switch. There was a chattering sound like a solenoid near the battery compartment then everything went DEAD. Anyone experience this before ?

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                            • roadsweeper
                              roadsweeper commented
                              Editing a comment
                              Few things to check, does the ignition work at all now or completely dead? If completely dead, check the main fuses to the right of the fuse box, that sit beside the starter relay, see if any of those have popped. If they have replace, and then clean up all your wires, take the wires off from the battery to the relay, and from the relay to the starter, make sure all the ends are corrosion free, and nice and clean. Also, do not forget to check the earth wires too, my Roadstar was a b**ch for having a poor earth, to the point I put a second earth wire to the battery in. Whoever designed the original earth, to connect to the top of one of the oil filler channels needs shot.

                              If your terminal connections are dirty, she will pull far more amps than usual in order to try and overcome the muck, which results in the main fuses blowing.

                              If your main fuses are intact, first thing I'd try is jump starting it from a car, a worn and tired battery can casue the solenoid to chatter like that, as shes just not got enough juice to actually turn the starter. Also, if main fuses are still intact, and ignition powers up, but wont turn over, could also be the starter relay has fried itself. Could test this by disconnecting the two terminals from the relay and bypassing it by touching them together. Only do it briefly and be prepared for a good spark, don't flinch, oh and make sure its in neutral as it'll turn the starter.

                              I make a point of taking off all the ignition wires and earth wires once a year in the spring and making sure they are all clean, they seem to have a tendancy to get dirty and start arcing.

                              Like I said though, first point of call, if your completely dead, is check those two main fuses by the starter relay (30amp fuses if I recall), replace if needed, then go over the ignition wiring, it sounds like shes not getting enough juice for whatever reason.

                            • roadsweeper
                              roadsweeper commented
                              Editing a comment
                              On a different note though, can I ask where did you get your ignition, from the dealer? My own ignition is on the point of dying (worn out) and I'm reluctant to pay Yamaha the best part of £500 for a new one (actually how I came across this thread, I'm looking for sources for a new ignition that I don't have to remortgage the house for!!)

                          • #19
                            Hello Roadsweeper, what I ended up finding was a bad ground from the negative post to the oil tank . The BEAST lives again ! I got a genuine OEM ignition switch from Boats Market Place up in Georgia. It was a tad under $200 USD, shipping was rather inexpensive, got here in Florida in two days for under $7 don't have a clue what international shipping would cost. I found out in changing the switch that you only need to remove the gas tank. After removing the framework that's around the switch use a drill motor and roughly a 6mm drill bit to remove the head off the machine screw that connects the seat cable. The factory used loctite on these threads as they did on the two shear bolts that connect the ignition to the bike frame. I used a good center punch to mark the center of the shear bolts, drilled a1/8" pilot hole down a bit followed by a 3/16" bit all the way through. The longer the 3/16" bit the better of keeping it centered through since the drill chuck wants to angle you off. Once drilled I used a 4-flute E-Z out (straight, not spiraled flutes, my preference) that was suitable for that size drill hole. Gently tap with a small hammer and twist out the old shear bolt, I used a 6 inch adjustable. I ordered a handful of 8m1.25 X 25 serrated flange Allen bolts for remounting and used 31 ft-lbs of torque. I also got a handful of 5m8X12 Allen bolts and lock washers for re-securing the seat cable. When you are ready to do this, give me a holler and I'd be glad to mail you the various bolts, screw and lock washer, I'll even throw in the E-Z out since I have a good collection of them.

                            Comment


                            • #20
                              The OEM P/N that I used was 4WM-82501-02-00 for a 2001 RoadStar 1600. I know that one covers a number of years, not sure what the range is now. Hope this helps you.
                              I just wished that when they sell a new ignition switch that they include a matching keyed gas cap.

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