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  • Hyper-charger butterfly adjustment

    There is an adjustment screw on the back of my hyper charger. Found nothing in instructions about it but is this for minimum opening of the butterfly or something else? I could use some experienced help. The hyper-charger seems slow to open when thrusting the throttle. Get a little poof out of the hyper charger when opening the throttle up at a quick thrust. During normal riding time I have no issues. Maybe this is nothing to be worried about but that’s why I’m asking.

  • #2
    The Roadstar doesn't like when we blip the throttle quickly. Doesn't matter if it's a well tuned carbonated or a fuelie Roadstar. The best adjustment screw you will find is the one that removes the hypercharger and allows you to install a stock air filter, BAK or universal K&N filter. The hypercharger constantly changes the volume of air entering the carburetor which makes it extremely hard to tune for good performance at all speeds. Most here think it's just for looks.

    Comment


    • DWD6955
      DWD6955 commented
      Editing a comment
      Unfortunately thats the one I’m stuck with for now. It came with the bike when I bought it. So I’ll just have to figure out what that adjustment screw is for until I can afford to go back to stock intake, If you don’t mind. So if anybody else knows what that adjustment screw is for, please advise. I don’t like the Hypercharger either so save the opinions please. I just need technical advise with someone that knows what that screw is for. Thanks

  • #3
    Is it possible to just remove the butterflies altogether, or jam them where they just stay open? At least then you would have a constant volume of air that wasn't changing. Then, you could tune / jet from there. I think the Hypercharger looks cool as hell and I probably would have got one, but then I read about them here and, well, it makes sense. I'm glad I went with my K&N RC-1624, it was inexpensive (around $50 back when I got it), performs well and still looks cool. No leg interference either, and it makes carb access a breeze. Plus, I added a crankcase vent that's like a mini version of it just below it (see pic). Kind of gives it an old hot rod vibe to me. Also added a chrome billet Idle adjustment knob, you can barely see it in this pic, it's at the bottom of the front pushrod. A custom brake pedal and Stratoliner foot boards round out the look. I still have a chrome billet points(?) cover to install. Bought it around 5 years ago, then lost the gasket. I found it a week ago, so maybe soon. The only other things I want to change in this area are to paint the cylinders black (not the heads, just the cylinders, ala old school H-D), and get rid of that God awful ugly rear brake cylinder. To me, it looks like they were finished designing the bike, and someone said, uh-oh, we forgot the rear brake cylinder, lets see what we got lying around. Even the little chrome do-dad that is supposed to cover it up isn't helping much, it doesn't even cover the whole thing. Anyway, good luck with your air breather dilemma. Sorry, got a little long winded there.


    Comment


    • DWD6955
      DWD6955 commented
      Editing a comment
      Off subject but do you know to how remove the AIS and plug up openings? I’m having a hard time figuring out what’s what on my 2005 RS xv1700a. Simply put…which parts consist of AIS and what holes do I plug. I did a mod 1 on my exhaust and think removing the butterfly on the Hyper-charger and disabling the AIS would improve performance?? Your thoughts? Plus I can clean up that front side before I install my cobra Highway bar. I looked up a lot of tech forums and suggestions on this site but it’s all over the board. If you can provide a step by step link or when you get a little time help me out with instructions. I’m not a bike mechanic but I have the aptitude. Also I wouldn’t ask if I didn't do the research

  • #4
    Keeping the butterflies open constantly is a good point. Should i rig them all the way open? Also $50 dollars is reasonable for that intake. I have a E-3402 k&n filter on the Hypercharger now and another one ordered. I don’t know to what extent the previous owner tuned or jetted the carb during the install of the Hypercharger so should I purchase and re-install the original/stock jets with a stock breather? I have my eyes on the Baron V-102 intake bug that’s down the road. I like the set up on your bike, looks good! I might add the chrome billets idle knob to mine as well. What is the advantage of the crank case vent if you don’t mind me asking? And yah, that back caliper is a dog ugly caliper but fortunate for me mine is hidden by exhaust and saddle bags. If I ever re-design my bike for single rider appearance I will have to do something with it. Not sure what I want to do yet, I like the rear seat just in case I need to give someone a ride, Like a hot babe that just so happens to need a lift. Lol! I’m married and tease my wife about it so maybe she’ll start riding with me a little more. I like the brake pedal you have too. Lot of upgrades. Still gotta figure out WTH that screw is for on the back side to the diaphragm housing. Anyway, thanks for the input. Appreciate ya!

    Comment


    • Father Pobasturd
      Father Pobasturd commented
      Editing a comment
      Yea, I would say rig them all the way open for maximum air flow. I would wait to see how it runs with the butterflies permanently open before I started jetting. I got the idle knob on J&P Cycle, it was cheap. On the brakes, I wasn't talking about the rear brake caliper (although it's ugly too), I was referring to the rear brake master cylinder. that little white plastic piece of shit. It's right behind the brake pedal in my pic. The crankcase vent is so you don't have to vent into your air breather, which fouls up the breather element with oil mist. On the stock set-up, that's where it goes, so when I chunked my stock breather I had to vent somewhere. Many guys here have done the same thing. I can't help you much on the AIS delete, all I know is certain year models require a different approach to this. Yours being a 1700 like mine, it's probably the same as mine. That requires buying a block-off kit. Look on ebay for the best deal on that. As far as installing it, I must claim ignorance there. A fellow RSC member (who shall remain nameless), did it for me. I watched, but that was 7 years ago, damned if I can remember. Brake pedal I also got on Ebay, just go to car parts and put in Round brake pedal and you'll see a bunch of them. Some cool oval ones on there too that I almost went with. Takes a little modification to make it work, but I have limited tools and was able to do it with a drill and a hacksaw. If you really want to clean up that left side, chunk that 13 pound fuel pump and go gravity feed. Lots of guys here run that way. Good luck with your bike and have fun.

  • #5
    Bye the way, have ever had to change your tires or did you have a shop do them? I could remove the wheels and take them in to replace the tires I guess. Probably cheapest way because I still need them balanced. Damn tires aren't cheap either. Like $500 just for the rubber.

    Comment


    • Father Pobasturd
      Father Pobasturd commented
      Editing a comment
      I've been having a harder time getting wood lately. I hear there's some little blue pills that can fix that.

    • Father Pobasturd
      Father Pobasturd commented
      Editing a comment
      When you get tires look into this shit called Ride-On balancing beads. You know, when you get a new tire and they balance it with weights, not only are the weights ugly, but, over time as the tire wears it loses weight and becomes un-balanced. Ride -On beads compensate for this, and no ugly weights! Yea, it's more money, isn't everything now days, but in my opinion a worthwhile investment.

    • davej
      davej commented
      Editing a comment
      Ride on the FPB is talking about is a liquid balancer not beads. The beads are Dyna beads and do a decent job for balance but Ride on is better to keep a continuous balance and it is also a sealer if you were to run over a nail . The tire won't go flat it will seal and not lose air. I've been using it for years. It will also extend the life of the tire because be in a continuous balance if help avoid cupping and feather edging on the tires.

  • #6
    1- Hold the butterflies closed
    2- Turn the screw in until you feel it hit the rod
    3- Adjust it so the butterflies stand about 1/8 inch open​
    2009 Roady
    2009 Stratoliner S

    Comment


    • #7
      That is pretty straight forward. Thanks

      Comment


      • #8
        and get rid of that God awful ugly rear brake cylinder. To me, it looks like they were finished designing the bike, and someone said, uh-oh, we forgot the rear brake cylinder, lets see what we got lying around. Even the little chrome do-dad that is supposed to cover it up isn't helping much, it doesn't even cover the whole thing.

        Only saw one of these and I snagged it up years ago. Covers the whole rear brake pedal assembly area...andnthenchrome rearmaster cylinder helps. I really like it and wish I could find more. Click image for larger version  Name:	20220702_084559.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.75 MB ID:	149647
        LET'S RIDE

        Comment


        • Father Pobasturd
          Father Pobasturd commented
          Editing a comment
          I think I can see it. Yea, what do you need, about 6 more to cover the rest of your Roadstars? I just noticed you have mismatched wheels on that bike.

      • #9
        Thanks for the info F.P. Name is too long to type, lol! That’s not my bike in the pic with mismatched wheels if your referring to me. I still have stock. I like this forum. Get a ton of info and great ideas. I didn’t realize I could run gravity feed all the time on my bike but absolutely going to chuck the fuel pump. If performance drops, I can always put it back on. Ride in balancing beads is new to me too so I’m bookmarking this forum for when I do replace tires. And yes I misunderstood caliper vs rear brake cylinder…duh! There’s a lot of chrome stuff out there so I’ll be pretty busy. This weekend I’m removing Hypercharger butterfly, install new air filter, installing all LED lights, installing cobra Highway bar and chrome foot pegs and going out for a 2 hr ride to Tippacanoe and shooting range. Hopefully I can get the idler cable I’m ordering prior to Friday. Thanks again men!
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #10
          Originally posted by Father Pobasturd View Post
          When you get tires look into this shit called Ride-On balancing beads. You know, when you get a new tire and they balance it with weights, not only are the weights ugly, but, over time as the tire wears it loses weight and becomes un-balanced. Ride -On beads compensate for this, and no ugly weights! Yea, it's more money, isn't everything now days, but in my opinion a worthwhile investment.
          RideOn is a balancing gel with some puncture protection. Dyna beads are small ceramic beads that balance. Both work extremely well to balance without lead weights and they balance as your tires wear.

          Comment


          • DWD6955
            DWD6955 commented
            Editing a comment
            Will a service center put that on instead of those big ass balancing lead inserts?

        • #11
          Originally posted by DWD6955 View Post
          Will a service center put that on instead of those big ass balancing lead inserts?
          Some give you the option and some don't. It's easy enough to do yourself. Just tell them to leave the lead weights off or remove them yourself. It goes inside the tire, not on the tire or wheel. Go to their websites to see how they work. I buy mine on ebay and install it myself.

          Comment


          • #12
            Now looking around for tire replacement estimates. Any rough ideas on how much it cost? I’m looking at about $500 for tires but not sure what a dealer service center would charge. Gotta replace rear rotor too. Just askin?

            Comment


            • KFallsRider
              KFallsRider commented
              Editing a comment
              Usually the shop *Rate is from $100-$$125 /hr

          • #13
            Originally posted by DWD6955 View Post
            Now looking around for tire replacement estimates. Any rough ideas on how much it cost? I’m looking at about $500 for tires but not sure what a dealer service center would charge. Gotta replace rear rotor too. Just askin?
            I used to order my tires online and pay a local shop to mount the tires on the rims. But now mounting has become so expensive if you don't buy the tires from the shop that I found that cycle gear was cheaper by ordering tires through them and having them do the mounting. I think they charge $25 to mount each tire if you buy the tires from them but it's about 2 or 3 times that price if you bring in your own tires. I just remove the wheels and take them to them. They were very professional about it. I do white walls so my choices are limited. You should not be paying more than 200 per tire plus mounting.

            Comment


            • #14
              Thanks men, it’s hard to find shops local that will take the wheels and replace tires at a reasonable price. They want the tire sales profit and make you think you’re getting a deal on mounting. It probably all adds up to be the same cost either way, thanks for the input. At least I have some knowledge before I make the deal. I can have 4 tires on my car replaced for under $500 and 2 wheels for a bike will be just under that cost. You would think less rubber a couple hours labor would be much cheaper. I guess you have to pay to have the toys.

              Comment


              • #15
                Back on the subject of the Hypercharger butterfly, until I purchase another intake breather, if I remove the butterfly is there something I need to do with the breather line that connects to the butterfly diaphragm? Or just leave it as is? I agree that the bike runs better with it jammed open, I rode the bike for a couple days with it wide open and seen an obvious difference. I know I need to get rid of the Hypercharger but until then bypassing it is my only option for now. Also one of the members recommended gravity feeding fuel and bypassing the fuel pump as most members have done. Is there anything else I need to do besides unplugging the connector and connect fuel line direct? I’m not questioning the members expertise but it seems to me that the pumps purpose is to force the right amount of fuel needed for optimum performance. Does it have any impact on cold starts or when giving more throttle? You guys know best that have bypassed the pump so I’m asking for validation from experienced riders. Is there any negative results by bypassing the fuel pump? It’s easy enough to put it back on but I wouldn’t mind knowing in advance. Some members are sensitive when questioned, Im just learning and no offense. So far nobody has stirred me wrong and I appreciate your expertise. I’ve made a lot of changes based on this forums expertise!!! Thanks

                Comment


                • Father Pobasturd
                  Father Pobasturd commented
                  Editing a comment
                  If that line that connects to the butterfly diaphragm is pulling vacuum. I would say plug it with something.

              • #16
                Will give that a try.

                Comment


                • #17
                  Originally posted by Father Pobasturd View Post
                  If that line that connects to the butterfly diaphragm is pulling vacuum. I would say plug it with something.
                  He said it was a breather tube so if he is correct it is coming from the rear valve cover and should not be plugged. It can either stay attached to the hypercharger or the extended down to a different small universal filter just to keep oil from dripping on the ground.

                  Comment


                  • Father Pobasturd
                    Father Pobasturd commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Why would the crank case breather run to the butterfly diaphragm?

                • #18
                  Originally posted by Father Pobasturd View Post
                  Why would the crank case breather run to the butterfly diaphragm?
                  Good call. My bad. And why would a breather in general run to a diaphragm? Wouldn't it be a vacuum hose? Terminology does matter, even in horseshoes and hand grenades!

                  Comment


                  • Father Pobasturd
                    Father Pobasturd commented
                    Editing a comment
                    It's cool Shores... You are still a good guy in my book. I think he's talking about the vacuum hose that opens the butterflies. Since he's gonna remove them, plugging the line seems to make sense.

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