I would want to know what caused the lifter problem...not a super common issue. Maybe wrong oil? Hope it fixes starting problem and that it won't be a separate issue.
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Its really not an unusual problem…. If the lifter failed and allowed a bit of slop in the cam lobe/lifter area of bike, it most likely destroyed the cam lobe….
without knowing history if bike… it cannot be determined if wrong ‘Z’ rating oil was used (not vtwin specific oil) or if valve clearances were not adjusted correctly ( zero lash )
remember…. This bike has some age on her… lifters do take a good beating over time… wrong oil just causes excessive wear a lot faster…
now would be a good time to check oil pump drive gear to determine if new style gear should be installed (really good idea to replace with new style)
the replacement of the gear is actually straight forward and relatively easy… the cams and lifters arent that difficult for the mechanically inclined but a novice might want to consult with somebody with experience… ( to make sure everything is installed in correct timing, assembly lube, lifter pre pump up, and proper valve adjustments… )
cam is about $380.00 and lifters are about $30.00 each… of course new gaskets are always advised…
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so explain the pic? It's obvious they are different sizes but what is it you are trying to tell us with the pic? Are they both out of the bike and 1 is worn down that far? if so let us see the bottom of it and the wiped out cam lobe it came off of? hard to think that with it wiped out that bad that it just suddenly started to run bad. I would be checking the oil drive gear to see if you lost oil pressure to wipe it out that quickly.
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I myself feel that you should stay with the factory valve springs. Running heavier valve springs puts more loads on the cams, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, and valve retainers. Stock springs with stock cam lope specs will be good for 5000rpms max. The stock cams work best at 2k to 4K rpms, so unless you are upgrading the cams, I think you should stick with stock springs. JMO.
Stock valve springs pressure at installed retainer height, .0" lift, for a 1600 is approx 48# psi each x 2 = 96#, and at the rocker arm, push rod, lifter, and cam is approx 182# psi (96# x 1.9 ratio = 182#), and goes up in pressure as the valves lift. For a 1700, the pressure on the push rods, lifter, and cam is less at .0" lift =135# psi, (96# x 1.4 ratio = 135#), and goes up as valve lift increases.
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I'd be prone to go with the heavier springs because I'd be offsetting tanking the motor due to valve float (more likely in my case) vs. adding pressure which MAY induce excessive cam and other wear. The only question in my mind would be how much premature the wear may be vs. staying stock, if at all. But then again I'd definitely upgrade the cam if I was replacing it anyway, because why not?!!
You'd know better than me. I'd just be weighing one risk vs. another based on my own riding style, in addition to the fact that I'm not putting a ton of miles in each year compared to my years in Vegas, so any additional wear factor may not arise for many many years in my case.
Now if it was going to snap the cam in half or something, that would be another matter.
Nice specs there, Duke!
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Road Stars go hundreds of thousands of miles with stock cam/lifters and either a 4250 rev limit or 4750 and inant vases 5000 rev limit (Dyna ignition). Adding unnecessary spring pressure would reduce that mileage. Now hot cam and better springs would be nice!LET'S RIDE
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