Starting/running issues please help

[Tmoon]

Had my 99 road star 1600 for 4mo now and while riding it it shut off...I had a family member come give me a jump and I was able to ride a quarter mile before cutting off again...I repeated the jump and ride for 4 miles to get it home...assuming it was my stator I decided to replace it along with the rectifier...it started up and was able to go on a ride to downtown... but on my way back it shut off again while riding only this time it wouldn't jump so I had it towed home...after reading a few forums I got new solenoid relay and ignition coils and battery...also new cables from battery to solenoid and solenoid relay to battery....it starts to crank but will not run...I hooked cables directly to the the starter while in the bike to test and it still only cranks but then I removed the starter to test it got nothing...can a bad starter get it to crank but not start and run???

[Shores]

I suggest you quit throwing money at it but rather wait for some replies here and start testing the voltages etc on your components before replacing them.

[Lug Nut]

First...what brand components did you use ? OEM Yamaha or some other brand? Sure your not having a fuel related issue?

What modifications are done to bike? Pipes, jetting in carb, air filter setup? Miles on bike?

What spark plugs?

How old and what brand/cca battery?

When installing stator did you use dielectric grease in plug?

Did you use a voltmeter/multimeter to test coils, battery output, etc?

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What do you mean "got nothing" when removed starter to test?

Is your fuel pump working/energizing? Did you ever test to see if it's pumping fuel correctly? Plugged filter?

[MidnightRide]

First...what brand components did you use ? OEM Yamaha or some other brand? Sure your not having a fuel related issue?

What modifications are done to bike? Pipes, jetting in carb, air filter setup? Miles on bike?

What spark plugs?

How old and what brand/cca battery?

When installing stator did you use dielectric grease in plug?

Did you use a voltmeter/multimeter to test coils, battery output, etc?

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What do you mean "got nothing" when removed starter to test?

Is your fuel pump working/energizing? Did you ever test to see if it's pumping fuel correctly? Plugged filter?

Yeah and I was wondering how it died. Did it sputter and crap out, indicating fuel, or just go dead-cold without warning, indicating electrical (no spark)? Just sounds like it's fuel starved and started back up because fuel flowed back in during the wait. Really sounds like a fuel pump issue, with the pump finally dieing altogether which is why it won't run AT ALL now.

Bypass the fuel pump to see if it'll run on gravity-fed fuel, assuming all of the new parts are correct and working.

If the starter has a short and has been doing a rapid drain on the battery, hence the need for a jump, it's possible that the jump was putting just enough juice in the battery to allow it to run a few more miles.

How is the battery itself? If it's cranking but now not running, I'd think fuel pump once again...

But if the starter won't crank while off the bike, then maybe an intermittent short? Put a meter on it.

[Tmoon]

I think it might be a short in the starter....I tested it again and the starter sparked...but also the previous owner had bypassed the fuel pump..but I check the fuel line and the intake and it's getting air and fuel...I tested the spark plugs and I have spark..also I didn't use any grease in the plug...

[Lug Nut]

What brand parts specifically did you replace the factory parts with. Unfortunately you changed out so much at once it makes it hard to diagnose. The starter should be cleaned out of old brush material, polish the commutator and maybe a new brush set installed.

When you say bypassed fuel pump...you mean relocate or totally removed? There are a number of steps to do when removing the fuel pump entirely that has to be done to have the bike run properly...

[Tmoon]

The brand is caltric...its pumpless the fuel pump was already gone when I got it and was working fine till this happened...I replaced the other parts as I went along looking for the problem...I had a 2001 roadstar the I rebuilt but a car ran into me and now I have this 99...this is the first time I ran into a problem I couldn't fix...I went through the steps before I started replacing what I did...I kno it has air fuel and spark...but what was said about the starter short I think is it...after I charge the battery and was starting it, it would crank a few times then die and the batter would drop from 12/13v to 8/9v...so I'm going to Crack open the starter and see what it's looking like today...

[Aussie60]

I have a 99 model and I,'ve experienced both your problems.
Cutting out whilst riding come down to wires being exposed by small cracks and shorting on the frame. Main harness was replaced because it was hard and splitting, fixed that problem.
Voltage drop when starting was caused by when turning the key one of the tabs in ignition switch wasn't contacting properly and I went through everything like you trying to find the problem. Just a thought that may help you.
Steve.

[Shores]

Put a meter on the battery and test the battery while trying to start the bike. If the voltage drops that low, you have a bad battery.

[Lug Nut]

Careful that Calteuc stator...junk...Ricks Stator also is junk...

[Tcontrol]

Just out of curiosity…. Is it possible that you have a bad lifter or bad cam?….
Just worked on a 99 that had a bad lifter/cam on the exhaust of front jug… it would kill the battery pretty quickly starting since the front jug would not release the compression on an exhaust stroke…. Symptoms include puffing air out the intake manifold while turning motor over… (no exhaust release due to bad cam/lifter so pressure was released via the intake stroke)….

if you have spark and fuel and not starting…. It is something else…. (Try a shot or two of ether when attempting start… that would eliminate fuel issue for troubleshooting)…. If doesnt start… have you done a compression test…??

Or try testing exhaust cams/lifters as follows:
pull carb and turn motor over with starter… check for puff of air coming out intake manifold…. If puff of air… isolate by removing spark plug from one cylinder… repeat test.. then reinstall spark plug and pull one from second cylinder and repeat test. When air puff disappears… bad cylinder identified…

[brianmac]

The first post sounds like a classic alternator not charging my battery problem.

[Lug Nut]

The first post sounds like a classic alternator not charging my battery problem.

Replacing a OEM failed stator with aftermarket junk part is a sure way to end up chasing problems and throwing $$$ at a problem....

[Tmoon]

I will definitely check the cams n lifters...im getting the puff when I try to start it...that would explains the symptoms that I'm having now...im going to look into them today

[MidnightRide]

Wow if that's the case, that's something I never would have thought of. Nice find if that's it!

[Tmoon]

I have to get another battery before I can really do the cam test...

[Tcontrol]

Compression test identifies intake cam/lifter….
the air puff from intake manifold and spark plug removal identifies an exhaust cam lifter….as per procedure discussed in prior response post…

if battery charge doesnt last long when starting using a known good battery… pretty much suggests an exhaust cam/lifter issue…. (Assuming a good starter)

If you have to go into the motor, it would probably be a good idea to check the oil pump drive gear for old style/ new style… refer to other discussions referencing the part redesign… its not to bad to access via the clutch cover side of bike….

[brianmac]

here is a motorcycle electrical system charging system diagnostic tool https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources

[brianmac]

Your problem could be a simple as a connector for the stator

[Tcontrol]

Did you ever determine the problem with your roadstar?

[Tmoon]

Yes...rear cylinder with spark plug 1 and 2 is the problem...I did test on the front cylinder and still had the puff...I tested the rear and no puff...so I does the exhaust valve needs adjusting and or replace cams and lifters?

[Tmoon]

After further investigation its the lifters...the rocker arm moves freely with my fingers...I watched tapping on the starter and the rear rocker did not mov...looking down the push rod tub I could see the lifter shooting oil instead of lifting the rod...so I'm going pull the cams and check them too...

[Brad_G]

Hopefully the cams aren't hurt. In threads here there is a part number for an alternative lifter (Chrysler 318 maybe?) that works and is pretty inexpensive. That would be a best case scenario here.