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  • jd750ace
    commented on 's reply
    No. The emulators don't function without the holes in the damper rod. The only partial you really can do and maintain some working relationship is to get the right springs in her with the right preload to carry the weight correctly, and you can modify the damping curve with oil viscosity and oil height, which will vary, depending on your weight and your riding style, to a lessor extent.

  • Pauli466
    commented on 's reply
    can i install just the emulators for now and do springs and drill holes later. I don't feel like removing the damper and and changing bushings right now

  • jd750ace
    replied
    As far as “getting it right” is concerned, it’s such a quantum leap ahead of stock, you usually end up thinking it’s perfect when you first ride it. You have to put some objective thought into it and concentrate on what it is doing, or not doing perfectly to recognize any need for an adjustment. Different things are needed for some reactions. I adjusted my SV another 1/4 turn the next time I went into them because It blew through the travel on a sharp bump on me. I also drilled a 3rd bleed hole in the plate on them, because that was pure magic on my Road Star.

    Leave a comment:


  • jd750ace
    replied
    If you call race tech they will give you recommendations. Typical adjustment range is 2 to 7 turns. 7 turns is pretty severe, and that tight is generally a sportbike/track oriented setting. You only have to loosen the upper pinch bolts and pull the cap off to make adjustments. You can fish the whole works out of the top with a magnet, so your cap O ring is the only seal that is disturbed. To set it up, you remove the lower jam nut, back the adjusting screw up til the spring is free, then turn it in slowly. When it clamps up and begins to rotate the spring, you count from there. Our part number comes with blue and yellow emulator springs. Blue are for lighter riders, yellow for the heavies. I’m right at 250 pounds and I’m running 2 3/4 turns on mine with the yellow spring. I can make recommendations based on your weight and bike equipment, but understand, I don’t work for them, I just have a fair amount of experience with installing and tuning them.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pauli466
    replied
    Is it difficult to get the adjustment correct on emulators, if you don't get it right everything has to come apart again including the seals which could get quite expensive if they get nicked, what im curious about is how much difference there is with each turn of emulator adjustment screw, is there a specific amount that the screw should be through the nut ? Or you keep guessing until its right for your weight or riding comfort, it would nice to get it right the first time or at least close enough that you could live with it


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  • jd750ace
    replied
    Like I said, a little patience and ingenuity. I did it a very similar way the first go round on my SV650.

    Leave a comment:


  • SbTx_Rider
    replied
    For my bushing and seal driver, I used a PVC coupler (splice) for 1.5" PVC pipe. Sanded down the outer portion of the coupler until it fit inside of the lower tube. I placed the bushing in place then the seal washer. Then I used a piece of 2" pvc on top to drive it in. Then I installed the new seal, started the install by hand, sliding down the coupler to get the seal started, then I used the old seal, the PVC driver and then the 2" pipe to drive it home. I then used a pick to get the old seal out, it was very easy to get the old seal back out


    As for the rest of how to, follow jd's advice, that is what I did.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/12A9...ew?usp=sharing
    Last edited by SbTx_Rider; 01-16-2021, 04:33 PM. Reason: more info

    Leave a comment:


  • jd750ace
    commented on 's reply
    I suppose I should have mentioned that a 3" long driver is what you will need if you don't have that little 1/4" drive Snap-On driver I use. Good point.

  • jd750ace
    commented on 's reply
    The broom handle works OK if the bolt isn't over torqued. I used a long 1/2" drive extension to hold them before as well.

  • Jclevesque
    replied
    Thank you SbTx.

    Leave a comment:


  • SbTx_Rider
    replied
    I just rebuilt mine, and I used nothing but hand tools. I did have to buy long Allen sockets to torque to the dampener screw

    Leave a comment:


  • Jclevesque
    commented on 's reply
    Thank Shores what I was thinking is when removing too. Any issues by just using hand tools?

  • Shores
    commented on 's reply
    Just hold the damper rod with a broom handle from above while starting the bolt. Once it starts tightening the damper rod won’t spin.

  • Jclevesque
    replied
    JD does the top of the damper rod have either flats or socket to grab onto while removing the 6mm bolt below the lower fork? On my old XS 650 there is a 17mm allen socket which I used an allen with a bunch of extensions to get down and to lock down in the lower tube to remove the bolt. I do have an impact but wondering even if it cannot be removed in case it spins. JC

    Leave a comment:


  • Jaybo
    commented on 's reply
    yes, the proper oil is important, spit doesn't work in every scenario in forking!

  • Brad_G
    replied
    Having never been inside forks before that really helps get an understanding of what's in there. I'm sure I'll be back again to watch this. Thanks for taking the time.

    Leave a comment:


  • brianmac
    commented on 's reply
    and a good forking oil

  • Jaybo
    replied
    Everyone needs a good Forking!

    Leave a comment:


  • Duke
    replied
    GOOD Job JD! Thank you for taking out your time and making this video. This video needs to go into our tech files for everyone to reference to when checking out their shocks.
    Thank for the information and education.
    Duke.

    Leave a comment:


  • roadiemort
    replied
    Thanks J.D.

    Leave a comment:

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