Like I said, a little patience and ingenuity. I did it a very similar way the first go round on my SV650.
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Is it difficult to get the adjustment correct on emulators, if you don't get it right everything has to come apart again including the seals which could get quite expensive if they get nicked, what im curious about is how much difference there is with each turn of emulator adjustment screw, is there a specific amount that the screw should be through the nut ? Or you keep guessing until its right for your weight or riding comfort, it would nice to get it right the first time or at least close enough that you could live with it
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If you call race tech they will give you recommendations. Typical adjustment range is 2 to 7 turns. 7 turns is pretty severe, and that tight is generally a sportbike/track oriented setting. You only have to loosen the upper pinch bolts and pull the cap off to make adjustments. You can fish the whole works out of the top with a magnet, so your cap O ring is the only seal that is disturbed. To set it up, you remove the lower jam nut, back the adjusting screw up til the spring is free, then turn it in slowly. When it clamps up and begins to rotate the spring, you count from there. Our part number comes with blue and yellow emulator springs. Blue are for lighter riders, yellow for the heavies. I’m right at 250 pounds and I’m running 2 3/4 turns on mine with the yellow spring. I can make recommendations based on your weight and bike equipment, but understand, I don’t work for them, I just have a fair amount of experience with installing and tuning them.
Wherever you go in life, ride there if at all possible.
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can i install just the emulators for now and do springs and drill holes later. I don't feel like removing the damper and and changing bushings right now
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No. The emulators don't function without the holes in the damper rod. The only partial you really can do and maintain some working relationship is to get the right springs in her with the right preload to carry the weight correctly, and you can modify the damping curve with oil viscosity and oil height, which will vary, depending on your weight and your riding style, to a lessor extent.
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As far as “getting it right” is concerned, it’s such a quantum leap ahead of stock, you usually end up thinking it’s perfect when you first ride it. You have to put some objective thought into it and concentrate on what it is doing, or not doing perfectly to recognize any need for an adjustment. Different things are needed for some reactions. I adjusted my SV another 1/4 turn the next time I went into them because It blew through the travel on a sharp bump on me. I also drilled a 3rd bleed hole in the plate on them, because that was pure magic on my Road Star.
Wherever you go in life, ride there if at all possible.
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