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  • Newcomer with oil questions

    Saying hello from Texas. With some questions on changing oil. I've just recently purchased a 200 road star 1600 Silverado. I've burnt the clutch out and in the process of replacing. In themanual it states" 3.2 goes into crankcase cover and 2.3 in oil tank" my question is to anyone who's changed the clutch has some guidance to the topic

  • #2
    Disregard the first pic. Wrong one

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    • #3
      Read the directions closely. The amount for a normal oil & filter change is 4.3 quarts all added to the tank in 2 stages. The 5.3 quart amount is if the cases are split and the engine is drained of all oil. Some here recommend just 4 quarts but I drain mine so thoroughly that I have to add the 4.3 quarts to get the proper level.
      Scott B.

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      • #4
        First off don't ever rely on a dipstick it is notoriously off and there's a long lengthy procedure for actually checking the oil properly but you never want to or have to go through. Secondly there are two drain bolts open them up let them drain out completely I usually let it drain for at least an hour on the side sand and put a block of wood under the sidestand so it's very level. Also replace the crush washers that are on the drain plugs if it looks like there's no Crush Washer I just about promise you there is there just very much ressed in and embedded into the drain plug flange and you'll need to take a pocket knife to pick those out. If you want to ensure you don't ever have a leak just replace those little copper Crush washers every oil change. Since you're in Texas you do not want to skimp on oil use a full synthetic made for wet clutch if you stick with Amsoil V-Twin or Mobil 1 synthetic V-Twin you will be fine and can change it every four to five thousand miles. Also if you want the best filter get the Napa gold or Napa pro as they are Rebrand Wix filters. If you're going to replace the clutch absolutely positively do not put the stock clutch spring back in it. You may want to measure your clutch plates and see if they're actually out of spec and you will want to use the Barnett spring conversion it is a wonderful piece and it will last very very long time. If you do want to replace your clutches that you should do with OEM Yamaha clutch pack and new steels. Do not use aftermarket clutch pack and steels. Make sure to file the manual exactly do not over tighten the bolts on the spring basket as you will break them off. You'll want to use a good accurate inch pound torque wrench and tighten to 65 inch pounds no more. Be careful and scrape in the old gasket off the clutch cover it's a pain in the butt but you want to get it completely and utterly clean when you reinstall the new Factory gasket. Follow the manual for most everything come to here for addendums LOL. There are lots of YouTube videos on replacing the clutch and changing oil on the road star.

        when you're ready to add oil to the road star it is a very simple procedure put approximately 2 Q in where the dipstick is at replace the dipstick and screw it in tightly start the engine let it run for 20 seconds stop the engine unscrew the dipstick add two more quartz replace the dipstick tightly and you're done 4 quarts is what you can drain out and is what you should put back in if you keep adding more than four quarts you will have an overfilled motor that will leak out somewhere.
        "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

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        • #5
          Thanks for the much needed info. I've already purchased the Barnett spring conversion and "clutch plate kit from them"
          why wouldn't you recommend aftermarket plates?
          I don't have to fill any oil in the crankcase itself first?

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        • #6
          You can add oil at two spots instead of just one but it really doesn't make a difference and it's easier just to use the dipstick tube. The Yamaha OEM clutches seem to hold up better and less issues than the Barnett clutches. I went ahead and put the Barnett whole kit in my V-Star 650 that hauls a sidecar bike because the factory clutch was not strong enough even with the Barnett spring. However the feel and engagement is different than when it was OEM Yamaha for sure. Just keep the spring conversion and send the clutch pack and steals back to Barnett and order yourself brand new Yamaha OEM clutches and steels. Likely you would be good for literally a hundred thousand miles with everything being brand new. I have taken off the filler cap for the crankcase and put 2 quarts of oil in there before but it is unnecessary and extra effort for no reason at all. Just two quarts in start it two more quarts and you're done.
          "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

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          • #7
            Thank you a million times Lug Nut!! First hand knowledge is what I needed!

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            • #8
              If you are still running the stock air filter assembly, adding more than 4 quarts may cause the crank case vent to spew a lot of oil mist on your air filter to the point where oil starts dripping out of the air box. Usually ruins the filter as well.

              You didn't say how many miles are on the bike. Mine has 58K and is just starting to slightly slip under heavy acceleration in 5th gear. I'm reasonably sure I can cure this just by replacing the clutch diaphragm spring with one from EBC, which is a little stronger, Under $40 to do this, although the Barnett set-up does seem to be the preferred way to go among RSC members, if you can afford it. Since you already have it, stick with it, but do try to return the discs and get the Yamaha fibers instead. I would look at the steels as well, chances are they are OK unless it's been subjected to major slippage.

              Lots of cumulative knowledge here, many different permutations have been tried and tested. The aforementioned Barnett set-up with factory discs does receive the highest marks, but does come with a slight increase in lever pull effort. I ran the Barnett Kevlar fibers in my Panhead / sidecar rig and got great service from them. IDK if Barnett makes then anymore, or if they offer them for the Road Star.

              Anyway, welcome aboard, and ask away with whatever questions that arise. They have probably all been answered 1000 times, but thats OK, plus updates do come along now and then. Good luck.

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              • #9
                Thanks man! It currently has 41k miles on it hoping to double it within coming years. I pulled into a gas station after about an hours ride( kept lagging on acceleration couple days before) I assumed my gas gauge was off due to I just filled up 5 minutes before power loss. I pulled in turned it off, checked around it started it. It started to smoke and the smell of burnt popcorn came from under the tank. Called a tow to home and took it apart, nothing but chunks of friction plates all around the case. Discovered the steel plates are black. I just bit the bullet and bought and bought the whole kit (assuming that's what I needed) just waiting for the ups man now. Hopefully I won't bother y'all with to many already answered questions. Lol. Just want to make sure I stay under the sun than in the garage. Thanks a lot for the advice y'all!!

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                • #10
                  Ask all Questions every time they come up . Someone will be Glad to Help you out .

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