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Just getting it back

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  • Just getting it back

    Well hello to all, I have an 06 Silverado, just got t back only to need more work done.....
    Drive Hard Live Long.

  • #2
    Back from who? Don’t take it to whoever again. Just ask here and folks will diagnose and suggest remedies.

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    • Zero74
      Zero74 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for your support

    • Zero74
      Zero74 commented
      Editing a comment
      thanks

  • #3
    from Dallas
    Peace,
    Baron Wilhelm Gustav von Schmidt III
    (But you can call me Joe)

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    • #4
      Just got it back from what? And what needs to be done now?

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      • #5
        from CA. We're here to help.

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        • #6
          from Conway, SC. Just ask and you shall receive.

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          • #7
            Hey thanks for welcome me to the group I have an 06 Silverado roadstar I wrench on it myself when I can My latest problem is my speedometer does not work or my odometer is the speed sensor the only thing that could be wrong
            Drive Hard Live Long.

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            • #8
              I give it to the mechanic because I had chronic leaks and he was able to resolve 90% of them a long ride shows that I still have a small leak somewhere
              Drive Hard Live Long.

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              • #9
                Where are the leaks your ref too,fuel,oil?

                Maybe someone overfilled the motor oil & or x-fer case both of which are sensitive to overfilling and will push oil out if thats the case with your bike.

                When motor is overfilled the motor will push oil out of crankcase venti onto stock airfilter assmbly and then dips out all over bike and gets sucked ionto motor and fule air filter oil too.

                An overfilled xifer case will push it out the xfer case vent.

                Fix for overfilled motor oil is drain & refill max of 4qts of motorcycle specific 20w-50 oil 9rec m1 syn v-twin 20w-50 avail at walmart & other auto stores too) along with a with new filter.

                Fix for over filled xfer case is drain & refill with approx .45qt of 80w-90wt gear oil per yamil srv'c manual.

                Also,there's the issue with carb puke/spewing fuel out when fuel & carb are overheated boiling the fuel in carb float bowl & metal fuel line between cyls
                causing carb tom spew fuel out of the vent to atmosphere tube on carb onto rear cyl,rear ex pipe & engine block.

                Fix for that is insulate carb float bowl,metal fuel line between cyls ,bottom of fuel tanks and metal body of elec f-pump too using adhesive backed 1200derg f heat reflective tape/wrap which took me approx 1.5hrs & 425 to do and my 06 silverado never pucked fuel again for the 5yrs/25k miles i rode it after doing that.

                Note,i used brakleen to preclean all surfaces i was going to apply the adhesive backed 1200 deg F insulation material on.

                Or you could go pumpless which is much more of a pia to do let alone the having to recalibrate/dial in the carb to get motor running 100
                % again post going pumpless which takes some guys many hrs and even days to complete not to mention costing more too.

                BTW,The 06 r* i used to have and my friends 05 R* were collectively ridden 95k miles/19 yrs with the stock original elec fuel pumps never failing.

                I sold my 06 R* few yrs back but now have a 2012 R* w efi but my friend still has his carb'd 05 r* silverado that now approx 13yrs+ old with npow approx 80k miles on it
                and is still running the stock original elec f-pump & carb has never required any work/never been apart either.

                Thats because a long time ago when he 1st got the bike i got him onto regularly using marine grade sta-bil which help keeping it from gumming up which cab stop it from cycling/working,also make sure he runs a nice dose of seafoam thru the motor 2x-3x a season too.

                In off season here in upstate NY i also got him to fill fuel tank with fresh fuel,add 2oz marine grade sta-bil,ride bike for approx 10mins or so to ensure treated fuel gets into entire fuel system ,then oput it up for winter storage and always fires right up like it was running 5-6month later when spring hits n,got him to use maint charger on the Deka battery i also rec he use too,he got 7.5-8yrs out of the 1st deka he bought,cant beat that.

                So not all stock elec f-pumps crap out like some may lead you to believe,and if the stock pump was to have failed when i had my 06 R* since the pump was small and light wt i kept one on board just in case and of use R* guys had a failure (which has yet top happen!) because if need be i could swap in a replacement pump in approx 15 mins and be done with it for another oh lets see,10-15 yrs/60-70-80k miles without having to disassemble the carb to install larger needle & seat anf to recalibrate it too alomng with having to vent the cap to atmosphere aliowing moisture and air into fuel tank to now more easily negatively react with ethanol in the fuel which can then gum up or worse yet attack/corrode metal parts and cause rubber parts to turn ointo mushy gel,been there done that!

                Thats why i dont rec and or do pumpless on the carb'd R*'s,i choose to insualte fuel system in 1.5 hrs for $25 and be done with carb puke for good on the carb'd R*'s i have done insulated fuel systems on.

                Those are just some of things i rec and or do to ensure our motorcycling is trouble free that i learned from the past almost 5 decades wrenching motorcycles,snowmobiles,late 50's-80's classic cars/classic 60's-70's-mid 80's muscle cars,small bulldozers,small engine equipment and just about anything with an internal combustion engine on it too!/LOL!!!

                Happy motoring!

                Scott

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