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Front End Rebuild

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  • Front End Rebuild

    I'm pulling the front end off on Thursday and installing new Racetech springs and Gold emulators. I also have fresh steering head bearings that I'm looking to install while the forks are off.

    I've read a number of the posts on Racetechs and steering head bearing swaps.

    Any last minute pieces of advice?

    I don't have a torch, is it time to buy one for the bearings?

    Just ordered new Commander III's too!

    Riding up to Flagstaff from Tucson once the jobs done.

  • #2
    Put the lower tree in the freezer over night and the bearing will slip on easy. Check and retorque head bearings again with flop test after several hundred miles. Use an inch pound torque wrench on the tree pinch bolts to prevent stripping with a foot pound wrench.

    Comment


    • Chromepony
      Chromepony commented
      Editing a comment
      That's a handy bit of advise to have.

  • #3
    I put the lower tree in the freezer for about 6 hours. Left the bearing heating in the Arizona sun. Didn't not get the bearing fully seated.

    Took in to the local Honda dealership to have them press on the bearing. They charged 25 dollars and fucked up the bearing lol. The press bent the bearing super bad.

    They owned their mistake. Waiting on a new bearing. They are covering the cost. Stuck without wheels til Wednesday. Also got a few free passes to the dirt bike track they own in town as a consolation lol.

    Fist time I've had anything other than a tire to a shop. Results, unsatisfying!!

    Took the dampers to a machine shop. Drilled them out for free!! Did not damage in the process.

    +1 for the machine shop
    -1 for the bike shop

    Comment


    • #4
      Another unsatisfied customer dealing with the “stealership”... like you said, at least they are trying to fix their screwup but better to not screw up at all
      2012 Road Star Silverado S

      Comment


      • #5
        What do those emulators do? Wouldn’t they be a huge pain to set?
        i thought you have to adjust the screw to set them. Wouldn’t that mean having to disassemble the fork each time?

        Comment


        • J89k
          J89k commented
          Editing a comment
          https://www.racetech.com/page/title/...%20They%20Work

          "The Emulator performs two jobs: it provides a digressive compression damping curve that is adjustable, and separates compression from rebound damping so that both can be independently tuned."

          When you install the gold valves you have to drill out the damper rods and increase the size of the compression damping holes. By doing this you make the emulator nearly entirely responsible for compression damping. The emulator is adjustable in a way that damping rods alone are not. You can change the number of damping orifices as well as the valve spring strength and tension.

          Racetech provides you with a set up based on your weight. I don't expect to be adjusting it too much.

          Honestly I hope these forks don't need to be cracked open for another 15,000 miles.

          If I were to decide to adjust the preload it would be significantly less effort the the process of installing them though. The forks don't need to be removed in order to adjust them.

          Maybe someone who has them can chime in on whether they've ever needed to adjust them.

      • #6
        Finally got my steering head bearing back yesterday. It took two weeks for the dealership to get a new one after botching the first attempt to press it on.

        Got everything installed and back on the bike.

        All Balls Rear wheel bearing kit
        All Balls Front wheel bearing kit
        OEM steering head bearings
        Racetech 1.0kg spring
        Racetech gold valve
        15w bel ray fork oil

        The wheel bearings came out easy enough using a nice set of bearing race punches.

        I used a pvc coupler and a cribbage board to drive my oil seals lol. Bought an 8 dollar length of pvc that was too narrow. Thankfully I bought the coupler along with it.

        I cleaned the hell out of the forks since they were off the bike. Keeping tension on the spring with a pipe was enough allow for the removal of the drain pipe. No special tool needed.

        I bought fresh oil lock spacers for the bottom of the forks. #16 on the partzilla. Glad I did. The old ones looked like they had taken a beating.

        I took it out for a ride last night and it didnt fall apart! Didnt get to really put the new suspension through its paces. Gonna give her a wash now and get it out on the road.

        I'm moving out of my apartment this weekend. So relieved I didn't have to leave my bike on the front porch!!

        Appreciate all the useful advice. I'll update with some feedback on the suspension itself after a bit more riding.

        Moving Out https://imgur.com/gallery/F3tg6RU

        Comment


        • #7
          All I can say is , I did exactly the same to my '01 , 3 years ago and it is still the BEST IMPROVEMENT ever !!! I will say , go easy for a while , I discovered the handling improvement was so good I could do things that were pretty Scary.

          Comment

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