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Bike still stumbling at low throttle settings

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  • Bike still stumbling at low throttle settings

    I have posted multiple times before about this problem, received many suggestions from the wizards of this forum, yet the problem persists. Float level is correct, check my profile to see the jetting, bike is now pumpless, with the 'Grzzley' valve installed. I am wondering if the accelerator valve is malfunctioning, or if the 'enrichener cable needs to be replaced. The bike runs better after warming up if I pull the enrichener out @ 1/4". The plastic coating on the cable has been pulled back over the wound steel core @ that distance. Suggestions?

  • #2
    Replace what you already know is bad to eliminate it as the problem. To check the acc pump look into the throat of the carb and see if it is squirting steady as soon as you start to twist the throttle and squirts thru 1/2 - 2/3rds throttle travel. With running better after warming up with the choke pulled 1/4 out indicates a small air leak. Looking at your profile it says you have a 175 main jet, you should be running a 172.5 Mikuni main jet on a 1700 unless you are running aftermarket exhaust without baffles then Barons calls for a 175 Mikuni main jet.

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    • #3
      Install a new pilot jet .i cut some of the rubber from behind the choke knob to be sure mine was shutting off completely, i i couldn't tell if the knob was all the way in, now i can

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Pauli466 View Post
        Install a new pilot jet .i cut some of the rubber from behind the choke knob to be sure mine was shutting off completely, i i couldn't tell if the knob was all the way in, now i can
        why would he install a new pilot jet?He has the correct one in there now.
        As far as trimming the knob, if you look up by the choke cable nut at the carb and the cable is sliding in/out of the nut when you close the choke then it is closing all the way. It slides when the choke cable pintle hits the pintle seat. The choke knob trim has been popular around here for years and was started by someone years ago that didn't fully understand how the choke/enricher cable closing works.

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        • #5
          I had a similar problem for like over a year. It turned out to be faulty be cable. When I push the choke in., plunger inside of the carburetor did not go along with it,i was hanging up so I replaced a little cable choke cable assembly. My problem was that it started very easily and stumbled above idle at slow speeds, course I live down here in Florida so it's warm most of the time but you still should need a choke to start it cold. My mpg was better at 80 mph. I would get like 110 miles before I flipped over to reserve. And then one day I drove to the next county I got a hundred forty-five miles before I had to flip over the reserve. You can also smell it it just always seem to run rich when it was going slow

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          • #6
            That's sorta what I was thinking. Last year, I took the 'enrichener' assembly off and cleaned and lubed it, but I don't know if it is functioning properly. The missing or stumbling occurs at throttle cracked @ 1" from full rest. Since that is a normal cruise setting, it is quite bothersome. Sometimes, when I don't feel like having to play the 'enrichener setting game' I switch over to riding my '12 1300CT. I will investigate changing out that cable assembly.

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            • #7
              Just inspect it you can do it with the carburetor on the bike

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              • #8
                Stumble at low idle or erratic idle can be from cracks in rubber diagram of the carb slide piston.
                Check it for cracks.

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                • #9
                  Ok. I have now replaced the enrichener cable assembly and the accelerator pump diaphragm. Checking the spark plugs before I did this show a rich burn. I have not tried to ride the bike since I replaced the carb parts, but all my jetting and PMS settings are the ones recommended by the more knowledgable members of this forum. It seems to me that if I had any vacuum leaks/air leaks like some have suggested, the plugs would have shown a lean indication. This contradiction of symptoms vs. evidence is puzzling. I have never adjusted the valves and the bike has over 55k miles on it. Since I don't hear any valve clatter, I didn't think it was needed, and some have said that these engines rarely need valve adjustments. Any comments?

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                  • #10
                    No valve adjustments. Just rocker arm synchronization to the valves so that the rocker tips are even with the valve stem tops. If your not hearing a lot ticking then leave them alone.

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                    • #11
                      what do you mean by accelerator pump diaphragm? the acc pump don't have a diaphragm. it has a rod set, spring and a couple orings. Is there a good steady flow of fuel coming out of the brass tube spraying into the carb throat as soon as you start to twist the throttle and stay steady flow thru about 1/2 way to full throttle?

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                      • #12
                        Whatever they call that thing under the ceramic cover on the back (of the bike) of the carburator. I found that it was sticking. AFA the steady stream, in my case, the stream of fuel is interrupted, not steady. I have never messed with the part of the carb you are referring to.I don't have one of my shop manuals available right now to get the correct terminology for the various parts.

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                        • #13
                          You probably have a problem with the acc pump causing the issue.

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                          • #14
                            How do I test it (or can I) My shop manual doesn't show any way to test the accellerator pump. (and that;s with both the Clymer and factory books).

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                            • #15
                              take off the air cleaner, look into the mouth of the carb at the little brass tube and turn the throttle about the same twist speed as if you are riding. Gas should start spraying from that tube immediately and continue to spray a "steady" stream of fuel thru about 1/2 way or so to full throttle. If it don't start immediately it could be an adjustment. If it starts to spray but has a sporadic or weak spray then the acc pump needs to be replaced

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