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  • About oil levels

    Would the oil level off from gravity from just letting the engine sit for a while, it looks to me it should because of that large line from the bottom of the alternator cover to the transfer case the oil height would level off between the block and the case, looking at the flow diagram it looks like the oil is pumped out of the transfer case to the engine crankcase where another pump pushes it around the engine but to return to the transfer case its just gravity fed through that big hose at the bottom of the alternator

  • #2
    If you question the oil level, change it. Add 2 quarts, fire it up for a minute shut it off add 2 more quarts, and you know it is perfect.
    2000 Roadstar 1600 - BAK, Pumpless, Curt's manifold, Mikuni HSR42 Freedom Combat Pipes Jumbo Strong bags, PPG 'HellFire' Paint.

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    • #3
      Take your dipstick out....break the metal long piece off and throw it away...screw the top piece back in. No one in their right mind uses the dipstick to check oil on a Road Star. The correct procedure for doing so is lengthy and somewhat ridiculous. Your bike does not burn/use oil. If you have a leak (which is rare) you can see it on the ground or on the underside of the bike. Change you oil and filter every 4k-5k miles (assuming full synthetic)...let it drain for an hour on side stand with some wood under side stand to make bike fairly level. Use 4 quarts only and fresh filter. Your bike will last over 200k miles with no issues (if this maintenance was done since new). Don't look for issues...just ride. You have about the simplest and most bulletproof V Twin cruiser made. And one of the cheapest...can pick these up for $1500-3000 all day long. Just enjoy.
      "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

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      • #4
        You could check the oil 10 times and get 10 different readings, all of them probably wrong. I't a good thing the bikes don't consume oil 'cause it would just be a guessing game as to how much oil was actually in the damn thing if they did.

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        • #5
          I have always changed the oil in December in preparation for the new season. This time I let it sit for 3 months and changed oil this past weekend so I pulled the drain plug on the engine first and was surprised that most of the oil drained from there. I got very little out of the tank. I suppose letting it sit that long caused the oil to collect in the block...
          not all those who wander are lost......

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Flashback View Post
            I have always changed the oil in December in preparation for the new season. This time I let it sit for 3 months and changed oil this past weekend so I pulled the drain plug on the engine first and was surprised that most of the oil drained from there. I got very little out of the tank. I suppose letting it sit that long caused the oil to collect in the block...
            And the second you start it up the oil gets circulated to where it needs to be 8n a matter of a few seconds. Nothing to worry about there....
            "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

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            • #7
              The oil that is circulated through the engine is taken exclusively from the tank under the seat.
              The return side of the pump takes oil from the crankcase and returns it to the tank.

              Since the two oil lines connect at the top of the tank I don't see how oil from the tank could drain into the crankcase when the bike is sitting still. Unless, for some reason, the oil pump quit working during your last ride.
              Scott B.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by texasscott1 View Post
                The oil that is circulated through the engine is taken exclusively from the tank under the seat.
                The return side of the pump takes oil from the crankcase and returns it to the tank.

                Since the two oil lines connect at the top of the tank I don't see how oil from the tank could drain into the crankcase when the bike is sitting still. Unless, for some reason, the oil pump quit working during your last ride.
                Thats How I see it as well. The only thing it might be is the pick-up has a down tube in the tank. guess I will crack open an oil line and see if it bleeds...I sure hope it does.......
                not all those who wander are lost......

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                • #9
                  It does pickup from the bottom of the tank through a screen. There is no tube, just the way the tank is constructed. To bleed off it would have to go through the oil pump first. Wouldn't take much, if it happened, until only air was there. This is the first I've ever heard of this happening.
                  Scott B.

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                  • #10
                    What others have said plus........engine oil does not enter the transfer case. It moves between the engine and the oil tank. The transfer case uses a different oil.

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                    • #11
                      Trying to understand what your wanting to know.
                      The oil pump is a 2 stage pump.
                      One stage of the oil pump pulls, "sucks", oil from the engine crank case and pushes it to the oil tank. The oil tank is built into the transfer case but is separate from the transfer shaft, which has its own gear oil.
                      The 2nd stage of the oil pump pulls, "sucks", oil from the tank, to the oil pump and sends pressurized oil to the engine thru the hose that's going to the alternator.
                      When the bike sets for a month or two, oil can seep very slowly back into the crank case via oil pump gear tolerances.
                      Does this help?

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                      • #12
                        I cracked open the line that services the heads and it bleeds! The heart still beats.......
                        not all those who wander are lost......

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                        • roadiemort
                          roadiemort commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Lol, heart attack averted.

                        • Flashback
                          Flashback commented
                          Editing a comment
                          I owe it all to my for profit health system Mort...LOL

                      • #13
                        You can't just assume the oil level is going to be correct until the next oil change, i just got this bike so I'm learning as i go, some of you had these bikes for years so what im trying to find out is if check the oil level after the engine has been sitting and on the side stand will it be the same each time because gravity leveled it off.. or is there a difference in level each time, i put 4.5 quarts in because after i drained it i turned the engine over a few times and at least a half a quart more came out, i didn't know what oil was in it when i bought it but i did not like the feel of the clutch so bought the EBC spring and cleaned all the clutch plates of oil and drained as much oil as possible from the system. On the next oil change it going to be only 4 quarts as i won't be turning the engine over to get more out. So if you check the oil on the first start of the day is it different every time? And if so can hazard a guess why?

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                        • #14
                          The problem is.... your checking the oil. If you want to check oil buy a HD. Seriously. 3rd Road Star...never checked oil just changed it every 4k miles or so. Your worrying about absolutely nothing at all period. If you check your oil followbthe proper procedure....which is NOT to check it cold on the side stand....it will be an inconsistent reading...due to design ofnthe oiling system.
                          "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

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                          • #15
                            Confer with DocV, he has the same disease called Tinkeritis lol.

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                            • #16
                              The hardest thing for me to learn about my first R/S (after riding H/Ds for years) was not to check the oil between changes.
                              It took me a while, but I finally realized that if these motors aren't smoking or dripping, they won't need any oil added... ever.
                              I've got over 70K mi. on my '00 R/S HotRod , & I've never added motor oil between changes.
                              I love the smell of smoked pork in the morning !

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                              • #17
                                This summarizes the whole thing. If you want to check the oil either use this procedure or check after each ride and then you will know it is good for the next ride. If you check at the end of your ride just let it idle for 30 sec like explained in the video.
                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjG18WGbHMg

                                Comment


                                • Duke
                                  Duke commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  This is a good video. Thanks Dave. It should be put into the Clinic's Tech Articles.

                                • Doc_V
                                  Doc_V commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  Yes, the whole, letting it idle for 30 seconds before checking is *key*. Otherwise you'll get erroneous readings.

                                  I pull up after a good ride, put it in neutral and let it idle for "30 one-thouands" ...e.g. "One thousand one. One thousand two..." etc. Then turn the motor off, tip the bike up so it's level, [you can put a block under the kickstand] and check your oil level. If you're reading seems significantly off from the last time, do it again. Start the bike, rev it up a couple times, then let idle for 30 seconds, and so on.

                              • #18
                                They changed the procedure later to something like 10 minutes in the summer and 20 minutes in the winter.
                                Scott B.

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                                • texasscott1
                                  texasscott1 commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  If it is checked after a long ride and is good and hot the level will be way above the hash marks, at least it is on mine. The level is directly related to the thickness of the oil film inside the engine.

                                • davej
                                  davej commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  I'm not sure I understand that logic. If the engine is for instance 250º why would it matter how long it was ridden to get to 250º? Or how long it has been 250º?

                                • texasscott1
                                  texasscott1 commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  At 250 degrees the oil film inside the engine will be thinner than at 140 degrees and there will be more oil available to be returned to the tank. The return side of the pump is very efficient as can be confirmed by someone who has started the engine with the dipstick out. I'm just quoting what Yamaha stated in a tech bulletin.

                              • #19
                                I don't know if it's already been mentioned in this thread, but I can't stress this enough... *Proper specification oil is an absolute MUST!* It is this bike's one Achilles heal. You DO NOT want to skimp on oil. You want a minimum of 1200 ppm ZDDP in an oil designed for a *wet clutch*. Period! I personally find Mobil 1 V-twin 20w50 is the easiest to come by, but if you search the site, you can spend all day going through oil threads and find other options.

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