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  • Need help picking a tach

    MY question is if the rs is a dual fire or a single fire ignition, it matters because one way you need an adapter?

  • #2
    Wowsa....oil pressure gauge....tach.....oil cooler.....that things gonna have wires and stuff sticking out of all kinds of ports! Lol

    I've seen people use Baron tach that is in the risers. Looks decent. Not sure if anyone has verified the accuracy as compared to an inductive tach (like an EZ Tach that clamps on a coil wire). Would beninterwating to see how accurate the analog gauge tach are.

    I'm assuming you want a tach permanently mounted to be vusablewhile riding?
    LET'S RIDE

    Comment


    • #3
      Yep, i get tired of looking for a higher gear and i am already there. I plan on taking the bike to a bike shop and have the air/fuel mixture tested so when i go into the carb, i am only doing it once. I will be going pumpless and installing the grizzly valve. If i have the tach already installed, i can check it compared to the dino test for accuracy. I also will use tach for setting proper rpm for idle. Some people can use there ears for setting it, not me. I am also looking for a cheap way to rig up an oil temp gauge somewhere, one thing at a time.

      Comment


      • #4
        I actually found an hd oil temp gauge that goes where you add oil. I woulnt mind lifting the seat to check temp on a hot day. That is if they make them for r's.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Herrindude View Post
          MY question is if the rs is a dual fire or a single fire ignition, it matters because one way you need an adapter?
          The rs is duel fire no tach adapter needed, connect to the pulse wire terminal on the coil.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks alot for that clarification. Which is the pulse wire terminal?

            Comment


            • #7
              Let me get my manual out, i am not even sure where the coil is, lol.

              Comment


            • #8
              Oil temp gauge....oil pressure gauge....tach.....oil cooler. Poor bike gonna weigh 100 lbs more! Lol
              LET'S RIDE

              Comment


              • #9
                I just added a adams rack and a harley king tour pack on the rear big enough for 2 full sized helmets and quite a few more sundries. The oil cooler is about 6 months out as i am accumulating data about temp vs oil pressure. As far as weight. i could stand to loose 100 lbs and that would make up for the gear lol.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Originally posted by Herrindude View Post
                  MY question is if the rs is a dual fire or a single fire ignition, it matters because one way you need an adapter?
                  Dual fire.
                  Is the word PICTURE a picture?

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Thanks for the " dual fire".

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Will be interesting if you record data regarding ambient temp...oil temp...oil pressure...oil type....etc
                      LET'S RIDE

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        That is exactly my plan. recording ambient temp, oil pressure cold and hot, oil temp through out the process. The reason i am doing this is there will be a pressure drop after installing the cooler because of the greater distance the oil has to travel. How much, no idea. But my thoughts is this, if you have higher oil pressure when oil is cold and lower pressure when hot, and you do, then if dropping the oil temp a even a little , i may be able to recover that drop in pressure that the cooler has caused. Maybe even more. I know that the oil pressure drops some from the oil heating up as well as the clearances in the hot engine loosening up, having more room between bearings, rings ect. If after all this if i find out that the pressure drop is more than what is allowable, or the oil temp doesn't drop enough to warrant running a cooler, i can rip it off and run it the old way. But i will never know until i try and see if i can tame the heat bomb between my legs here in the south Alabama summers. And actually, it was 76 degrees today so here we can have hot days even in the summer.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          And another benefit is i will be increasing the oil capacity by a little, 1/2 to 1/3 of a quart or maybe only 1/4 of a quart. It still is an increase in volume, basically like putting a bigger oil pan on a car or truck.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            I meant winter 2 post up. Must learn to proof read lolololol,

                            Comment


                            • #16
                              I have a PRO-ONE Tach . It is mounted in the 4" up 1 1/2" back Riser all in one piece. Zoom in on my Facebook Pic.

                              Comment


                              • #17
                                Originally posted by Herrindude View Post
                                That is exactly my plan. recording ambient temp, oil pressure cold and hot, oil temp through out the process. The reason i am doing this is there will be a pressure drop after installing the cooler because of the greater distance the oil has to travel. How much, no idea. But my thoughts is this, if you have higher oil pressure when oil is cold and lower pressure when hot, and you do, then if dropping the oil temp a even a little , i may be able to recover that drop in pressure that the cooler has caused. Maybe even more. I know that the oil pressure drops some from the oil heating up as well as the clearances in the hot engine loosening up, having more room between bearings, rings ect. If after all this if i find out that the pressure drop is more than what is allowable, or the oil temp doesn't drop enough to warrant running a cooler, i can rip it off and run it the old way. But i will never know until i try and see if i can tame the heat bomb between my legs here in the south Alabama summers. And actually, it was 76 degrees today so here we can have hot days even in the summer.

                                very logical thinking BUT remember that there are many 100k+ mile Road Star out there, couple I know of with over 200k miles with no problems with stock motor/transmissions with nothing other than factory recommended maintenance. None if those high mileage bike owners I've seen/talked with have any extra oil cooler, filter cover, oil pressure gauge, oil temp gauge etc......and they were designed without any of those things. BUT I get wanting to fiddle and monitor things inside a motor out of curiosity......BUT when you have this data or ambient temp, oil pressure at vaious temps, oil temp, and you factor in mileage and type of oil......what next? Can you say that the difference your measuring is relevant (statistically significant) to the longevity of the motor? If it puts your mind at ease then it's like a psychiatric med Andis at good thing. But honestly it's at lot of work tonga the info that may not be easily interpretable as to any relevant conclusion. Oil has tonget "so" hot to burn off impurities....for at certain length of time. Oil pressure has to be at a minimum for proper lubricity and rhe difficult thing about this is how thick our Vtwin specific oil is at 70 degrees and at 25 degrees and 100 degrees etc. It goes from honey to water as it heats up! Do we have a standard pressure/temp etc that we shoot for in this specific motor? Just a lot of questions that may not be answered by data collection....

                                then again I have 3 20 year old Yamahas one with a side car and one with a pull behind trailer in my garage....not much logical sense to have more than 1 bike since you cant ride more than 1 at a time....so my choice is illogical and only based on desire.

                                I'll be interested in your data for sure...just not enough to do the work myself!

                                at the end of the day these are cheap bulletproof machines that can be replaced for $1k-3k all day long.
                                LET'S RIDE

                                Comment


                                • #18
                                  Using a Diesel 52mm tach is a good way to go. Our engines don't rev up to most tachs that go up to 8000 rpms, and with a lower scale tach, you have a better reading of rpms. It is easy to set up on our bikes and is small. The signal wire for the tach is from any one of the 3 generator wires, then you set the frequency and fine tune on the tach.
                                  This is the tach I've been using and works great. I have my bikes rpm limit set at 5000 rpms, which I rarely go that high of RPMs, but if I do, it will not hurt the tach.

                                  Comment


                                  • Brad_G
                                    Brad_G commented
                                    Editing a comment
                                    Nice! That has always been something I disliked about many I've seen. Our bikes would only utilize half the dial.

                                • #19
                                  Just more ships you take your eye off the road then get slammed

                                  Comment


                                  • Duke
                                    Duke commented
                                    Editing a comment
                                    Yes, it's not for everyone. Some people can't chew bubblegum and walk at the same time.

                                • #20
                                  We re Don need no steenkeng gajus mang! Reference to the movie blazing saddles

                                  Comment

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