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  • Starting Issue

    So I go out to the garage this morning to start the R* (99 Silverado) and take off for work. Turn on the key, lights come on, hit the switch, fuel pump starts, hit the starter button and, after a half turn of the starter, the power goes out Turn the key off and back on, nothing. No lights, no fuel pump, nothing! Check the battery, full charge. I checked all the fuses I know of under the seat and under the side panels; everything looks like it should be working, but still no power. Any other ideas before I get the mechanic involved? I am mechanically inclined but a little shy when working on the bike.

  • #2
    Please don’t get a mechanic! Folks here can help. My first question is always, when did it last start and run well? Sounds like a common problem that folks here can easily solve for you. I’m of no help because I have a 2008 fuelie that has never had any issues.

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    • D-Fresh
      D-Fresh commented
      Editing a comment
      I hope you didn't just jinx yourself Shores...

  • #3
    Check both cable connections at the battery and even the ground cable to the oil tank. Make sure they are good and tight.

    The main fuse that feeds ALL of the bike’s electronics first runs through a 30 amp fuse on the starter relay. Follow the red cable from the battery to the left side panel. There are two fuses there. One‘s a spare fuse.

    https://www.hexautoparts.com/product...l022-2893.html

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    • #4
      Check and clean battery terminal connections. How did you test the battery? Get it load tested.

      Comment


      • #5
        The bike started and ran well to and from work on Tuesday. I have checked the battery connections (tight) and all the fuses around the seat area, including the main fuses. The battery showed green when I hooked it to the charger. I didn't think of this last night when I posted originally, but I left the key on early last week and drained the battery down completely. After charging, the bike started and ran fine until yesterday morning, so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the current situation.

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        • #6
          Gonna have to get the volt meter out and see where the battery voltage stops, also check the ground side. we can walk you thru some electrical testing areas but it is difficult guessing an electrical issue without being there or you helping with performing some test and giving us the results of the test.

          first thing I would want to know is actual battery voltage. BTW that is after knowing that the main fuse on the relay is not blown.

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          • #7
            Stab In The Dark ! My '01 did very much the same thing and ran me KNUTZ ! After checking every suggested Glitch , I thought maybe the Starter ? Pulled it and opened it up . Probably 2 Tablespoons Full of CRAP dumped out of the Brush end alone. Black , Brown , White , Tan CRAP ! I blew it all out good , used lite fine stainless brush on all surfaces , Blew all that off , dabbed a bit of Grease on the bearing tip races . Put it all back together and reinstalled it . This mother had 107,000 miles on it . Pushed the button and BAMM !!! hasn't failed since , up to 108,000 now . JUST SAYIN '

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            • #8
              Bad battery IF starter relay is good (jumps tarter relay to see). Voltmeter on battery ....see what it measures at key on AND while cranking....if it drops much below 10 it's weak and needs replaced.

              Could take battery out and have it load tested at a shop to make sure. Since you discharged it it could be bad (how old is it?)...or maybe needs a full charge that a tender won't do..
              "I'm Ricky Bobby. If you don't chew Big Red.....then Fuck You"

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              • #9
                I appreciate all the advice and have a few things I can still check when I get home. As far as the battery, I cannot check it under load because (as stated in the beginning) there is no power what-so-ever when I turn the key on. No lights on the speedo, no fuel pump running, no headlight/taillight, nothing. My plan this afternoon is to jump the starter relay and see if there is an issue there. The battery is fairly new and shows fully charged on the battery charger; I will check the voltage to make sure. If I have missed any other location where a fuse, breaker, or relay might be other than the area under and around the seat, please let me know.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Can you take the battery to one of the local parts stores and have them check it? The fact that the key was left on and the battery ran flat may have done irreversible damage.
                  2012 Road Star Silverado S

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    A green light on a trickle charger doesn’t necessarily mean the battery is good. Put it on a real charger for a day. Most trickle chargers won’t bring up a battery that is discharged too low.

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Did you try jump-starting with a 2nd battery yet . I have had problems with the brush plate hot lead on 3 OEM brush plates. but you're not even getting a click from a solenoid . Sounds like your battery charger is lying

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        For those of you that insisted on the battery check, thank you. I put the volt meter on the battery and it read 12.97, but as soon as I turned the key on, it went ot zero. Took it to the local auto parts store and it indeed was shot under load. New battery and a little bit of time later, I am back in business.

                        Thanks to everyone!

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                        • #14
                          I'm glad it was an easy fix.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            According to yuasa if starting voltage on a charged battery drops below 9.5 volts during cranking replace battery that needs to be replaced . Now some of the digital battery chargers require a little bit of voltage and amperage to start their their cycle I have found that with a totally discharged battery, that will still read 12 point something volts , I will have to use an old school analog charger and select the amperage manually once it gets up to a decent voltage and has enough to throw some amps you can switch it over to the digital smart charger. In other words they don't always work with totally discharged batteries. So you may wonder why they call it a smart charger right?

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