Never done brakes on a bike!

[Ahodge75]

okay so I’ve never actually done brakes on a bike before. While I was taking the wheels off today to get new tires on I noticed the rear pads were pretty much gone and the fronts seem pretty good still but since everything is torn apart I thought I’d just go ahead and replace front and back pads. I also noticed a little bit of unevenness in the rear rotor so I may do that as well.
Ive done a lot of brakes on cars but never bikes, what do I need to know to do them correctly?
I see people recommending EBC HH pads is that the general consensus for the best pads?
How about the rotor any specific kind that’s better than others people have used?
Any tips or tricks is greatly appreciated Thanks!

[Lug Nut]

Get a manual....actual paper manual is Much nicer than electronic imho. EBC HH pads all the way around are great. I highly recommend flushing old brake fluid out and using Prestone DOT 4 synthetic brake luid. The brakes CAN be a PITA to bleed....I use a $30 powered vacuum bleeder (hooks to air compressor) and works beautifully). I've done this on 8 yamahas at least always with great results.

[Jclevesque]

I do the old fashion way...lever pressure, bleed screw open, then tighten and release. Never let me down so far on a few rebuilds. I hook up a hose from the bleed screw to a bottle to see how much I bleed and helps keep air out too when line is full of fluid. Gotta cracks some banjo bolts here and there just a bit to get some bubbles out and thats always with lever pressure on. Have done front and rear alone and with the help of my wifes hair elastic band wrapped around the grip and lever for the left side caliper. I switched to organic pads. Had HH pads on the rear and chewed up my rotor some good. Organic and save rotors or HH and chew up rotors. I find for me the organic brake feel is close to HH.

[RoadieRob]

If your going to do the brake fluid and bleed them the old fashioned way, I highly recommend speed blenders. Note: Front bleed valves are different thread size than the backs. If you've done car pads then you can do these. No biggie.

[Dick M]

I just did mine a month ago. Replaced the rear disc also. I used EBC semi sintered on the back and EBC organic on the front. Unless you like spending $$$ on disc stick with a semi sintered or stock pads cause pads are much cheaper to replace than the disc. To push the pads back into the caliper I used two wood shims that were tapered you know the ones used in carpentry. They're slim enough to fit into the front calipers with the old pads in place. Then I simply slide the shims together and the taper on the shims pushed the pistons back into the caliper. You can by a pad compression tool but the wood shims worked pretty good and they are cheap. I then took a scotch brite pad and cleaned the calipers where the pads are seated installed the new pads and calipers back on the bike and pumped the brake levers until the new pads are in contact with the disc. From checking rear disc its cheaper to go with the oem Yamaha disc.

[Jaybo]

If you are doing the brakes and you still have the stock rubber lines, upgrade to SS braided lines. Look up Raymond Chan on Facebook for great prices, and super fast service. The difference in brake feel at the lever or pedal is amazing.

[Ahodge75]

Unfortunately I don’t do Facebook.

[Doc_V]

You know what they say about opinions, but IMHO, skip the HH and get EBC V-pad if they have it for your year, otherwise EBC Organic..

[Ahodge75]

Yeah I was looking at those said they were made for the heavy cruisers. The parts #’s even been able to locate seem to be front FA179 V and back FA123 V for EBC

[J89k]

https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum...ng-brake-fluid

Helpful for doing the fluid. Just flushed the brake lines and swapped out the pads a week or two ago easy peasy. You shouldn't have too much trouble.

I'll second the suggestion on the repair manual.

[MikeyC]

A source for brake lines on here is TimB. Hit him up if you need some.