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Race Tech Spring Selection

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  • Race Tech Spring Selection

    I'm looking at the Racetech spring / emulator upgrade and was wondering if when selecting springs, should I enter my weight, or the weight of my wife and I 2 up?


  • #2
    Riders weight only.

    Comment


    • #3
      It's best to err on the side of conservative when choosing your springs and setting your emulator; especially if your bike has extra gear like bags and batwing, etc. or you carry gear in your bags. I was orginally told get the .95kg springs and I've had problems with front end dive under breaking and bottoming out, so I now have a set of 1.1kgs on the way, but I have a lot of extra gear and I ride very aggressively.

      Comment


      • Horsehammerr
        Horsehammerr commented
        Editing a comment
        I went with .95 also , and I do have what seems a little to much front dive. I use my front brake pretty aggressively in corners and curves , the dive is a little nerve racking. I have 15 lb. oil in there with Gold Emulators so , I guess the springs are a little weak. I'm 210 with windshield , bags and trunk box. I'd guess 50-80 lbs. on top of my lbs.

      • BigPainRing
        BigPainRing commented
        Editing a comment
        I have mirrored Doc's advice. Installed 1.1's in my forks and 10 wt. oil.

    • #4
      May the spring force be with you.



      [/URL] [URL=https://www.use.com/949853ccd3c3a769b01c][/URL][/CENTER]" class="bbcode-attachment align_center" alt="" />

      Comment


      • #5
        Doc,

        A few questions regarding the Racetech setup.

        - You say you're going from .95 to 1.1 spring rate (how much do you weigh), do they allow you to exchange your old springs or are you having to just buy another set?
        - You have the gold emulators (I think), the website price is approx $180, is that in addition to the $130 for the springs or does that include the spring price also?
        - If it's in addition to the spring price, is it really worth it and does it make that much difference?

        I have stock front and rear suspension (have a roadwing just haven't installed it yet) and think the front is way worse than the rear. It nosedives very easily and handles horribly, the only thing i can compare it to is a '70's era big GM car (was going to say a Cadillac but didn't want to offend you... LOL). So is it best to get both springs and emulators to remedy the horrible suspension? I only want to do this once if possible.

        Regards
        2012 Road Star Silverado S

        Comment


        • #6
          D-Fresh i went with the .95 springs and the yellow springs on the emulators as i too wanted to do this once and love it. i might add that i am running 15 weight oil and the first year used one shim per instructions and then last year i added another shim just to make it a touch stiffer on the preload. it is a little harsh on giant pot holes but over all very happy with the set up JD on here helped me alot with questions

          Comment


          • Doc_V
            Doc_V commented
            Editing a comment
            In my the case Race Tech calculator recommended the 1.1kg fork spring with the red spring on the emulator at 4.5 turns in.

        • #7
          D-Fresh, yes, the stock suspension *sucks* and the front end will dive anytime you even look at the brake lever. A Progressive fork spring and 7-10 weight fork oil will be a *huge* improvement over stock. I had it on my 1600 with a Roadwing and really liked them; almost no front end dive under breaking and it's the easiest option to install. Just drain the old oil, cut your spacers to size, fill with new fork oil and insert the springs and spacers.

          If you consider yourself and advanced rider and like to charge *hard* on twisty roads, then Race Tech is the way to go. FYI - I road pretty damn hard on my 1600 with the Progressives and they did a great job. But this time I figured I'd go the extra mile and get the Race Tech set up with Gold Emulators.

          If you go for Race Tech, just use the Calculator Tool on their website and include your weight, riding level and type if riding you like to do, etc., and it will tell you what to choose. When I bought my .95kg springs, it was on the recommendation of a member, but we're all different. The Race Tech calculator takes all that into consideration and is what recommended the 1.1kg for my size and riding style, etc.

          I bought the fist set of springs from ebay, so I couldn't just return them; I'll put them back on ebay for a good price to recoup some of the cost. I personally wouldn't order direct from RaceTech, you can find everything much cheaper through ebay or Amazon etc. I just paid $132 for the 1.1kg springs on eBay, and $101 for the .95kg springs two years ago from PowersportsSuperstore.com The Gold Emulators were $123 on eBay. You'll need two quarts of 15w fork oil too for the Race Tech set up or two quarts of10w fork oil for just Progressive springs. ...And no offense taken, there's a reason they called those old Cadillacs "boats".
          Last edited by Doc_V; 05-10-2019, 01:44 PM.

          Comment


          • #8
            Doc, your comments make me think that progressive springs and an oil change would be more than enough for my sunday riding. My main complaints are the nose dive on braking and how poorly the front end reacts to any moderate / substantial bump or crack in the road.

            Are the racetech springs the same as progressive springs? Or is there something else I should be looking at? Sorry for the newbie question, I've not dug into this before.

            Comment


            • #9
              There's a bit of a difference between Progressive and Race Tech springs. You can see in the photo below. [Race Tech are straight rate]

              Honestly, I was very happy with the Progressive springs on my other R*; they defintely solved the front end dive under braking while being smooth over bumps and potholes. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again if I wanted a simple inexpensive solution. The only time I ever felt they fell short was on group rides, where there were sport bikes and I we were going 60 mph+ through sweepers. Which was pretty rare.

              Up to this point I've actually been very unhappy with the Race Tech springs *alone* and I'm hoping the emulators will fix that. They have a great reputation, so I'm confident they will. But the springs really are designed to be used with the emulators. So if someone said they were going to do springs only I would not recommend Race Tech. My 1.1kg springs should be here by Wednesday. I'll let you know what happens.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	PSI-Tech-spring-rate-compa.jpg Views:	1 Size:	107.6 KB ID:	71149
              Last edited by Doc_V; 05-11-2019, 12:06 AM.

              Comment


              • #10
                Im 150lbs ride aggressive for a beginner. And I only did the Race Tech springs and oil. I also did a roadwing in the rear at the same time. I couldn’t justify the emulators. I have the .90 rated springs. And its 110 percent better. Very little nose dive. Handles great and no more floating like a boat.

                Comment


                • Doc_V
                  Doc_V commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Yah, even Race Tech springs alone are better than stock. Don't know what Yamaha was thinking when the chose the R*'s suspension components. It would have been better to bump the price of the R* by $200 and use better components.

              • #11
                Went with the progressives and some bel-ray 10w. Looking forward to smoother roads.

                Comment


                • #12
                  Bang for the buck and ease of install you can't beat it. Let us know how it goes.

                  Comment


                  • rondo_calrissian
                    rondo_calrissian commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks again for all the help on this topic. It's been really helpful.

                    Overall, the change night and day better than stock. However, now that I've got about 1k miles on it, I think it's too rough for my liking. What would your opinion be on changing to a lighter weight oil? Dropping from a 10 to a 7 or a 5?

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