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  • #21
    Amazon also

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    • #22
      You're not the first nor will you be the last guy who's committed an unforced error that later led him down the wrong troubleshooting road. I spent a lot of years working on computers trying to backtrack and decipher what the customer did, so that I could correct it. My Mantra was always "trust nothing, suspect everything" I can't tell you how many times I've heard "I didn't do anything, it just quit working" only to find out that's not quite true. As biological entities we're all capable of making mistakes, so my suspicions of any error or fault are almost always centered around "what did I do last?". You can't be too hard on yourself as your initial mistake was masked by the ECM, which obviously led you down a rabbit hole. Thankfully your recovered nicely.

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      • #23
        Tekdiver 609 and Mitch82, my story is almost the same. I bought a 2001 that wasn't running wasn't getting any spark. Bought a dynatek 3000 and started right up, and ran pretty strong too. Here starts my problem. After riding for about 3 to 4 miles, she'll die. I put in Neutral she starts right up, the minute I put it in gear, she dies. I have to let it sit for about 45 minutes, then she'll start and run fine for another 3 to 4 miles again, then dies. I have noticed my neutral light comes on and off whenever she wants. I changed the clutch switch on the handlebar, thinking that was the problem...no! she still acts up and dies. want to try the grounding of the neutral switch, or maybe even looking at the kickstand switch, because she acts just like having the kickstand down. she starts in neutral, the minute you put it in gear, she dies. How do I go about grounding out the neutral switch? Thanks

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        • MidnightRide
          MidnightRide commented
          Editing a comment
          Sounds like the kickstand switch. Sending the wrong signal. That's exactly what it'll do if you try to put it in gear before putting the stand up. Start there. It thinks your stand's down all the time.

      • #24
        Azuqui, can u give us some more clarification? the bike dies suddenly, not chugging (out of gas)? suddenly would be electrical.
        it sounds as if u possibly have 2 problems from what u posted.
        After riding for about 3 to 4 miles, she'll die
        . doesn't sound like my problem at all.
        I put in Neutral she starts right up, the minute I put it in gear, she dies.
        . yep, that sounds familiar.
        I bought a 2001 that wasn't running wasn't getting any spark. Bought a dynatek 3000 and started right up,
        makes me wonder what the previous owner may have done to cause the bike not to run?

        the problem I need to understand is why it starts after some time. mine was constant, not intermittent. in electrical issues, 90% of the time I find intermittent to be a lose connection (wire), or a bad ground. but only if there is no repeatable pattern to the problem. i.e. dies always at a certain rpm, dies when put in gear etc. typically, lose connections are noticeably random and can't be easily tied to an event.

        miles are a measurement, that means time. and that usually means heat. miles allow the engine/bike to heat up. as the component heats up it expands. I had a cracked distributor cap, that when heated up lost connection and killed the engine. after it cooled down the crack receded, connection established, car started drove a few miles and died. But right now I can't think of anything on our bikes that would act like or cause that. maybe one of the RS gurus can help here?

        so when in doubt, TEST!
        I decided not to ground my neutral switch, so I don't know that procedure, but if u want to fix the issue...

        here's what I'd do:

        check all ground connections, there are critical grounds, the computer, and the main (engine oil tank). uh huh, that means cleaning them too (especially the one under the seat). and make sure battery is fully charged.

        test ignition switch. that disc is the root of all evil here. if it's installed wrong you 100% get my/ possibly your problem. Again it’s a used bike that didn’t run because of...no spark.

        there is a pig tail of 4 wires coming off the ignition switch to the main wire harness connection, up by the front of the tank. 1 in (red), and 3 out. no need to disconnect it as the test can be performed connected. I stuck multi meter probs in from the back of the pig tail connector 1st, then tested again on the main side. This will confirm the connector is solid. (I had already removed the tank)

        from a function perspective, and for ease of explaining, when turning the ig switch on, basically think of three sub systems getting energized, the computer, the starting circuit , and the relay system (also contains safety switches).
        __
        the red wire from the main harness supplies 12vdc delivered directly from the battery (BA) via a fused wire to the ignition switch. It’s always hot so...

        there are 3 wires coming off the ig switch, brown and blue (feeds the fuse box), blue and yellow (connects to the clutch switch and the starting circuit cutoff relay), and a blue and black (main power to ecm) Your checking to see if that disk is allowing the ecm wire leaving the ignition to be energized.
        (edit): I thought it was an orange wire but it's not, so I removed that statement.
        It's a blue and black wire that goes from ig switch to computer (ECM), ecm energizes the coils: 1 orange and 1 grey (according to my clymers' manual).

        my experience showed me that the contacts on the back side of the disk, when installed 180 out, will not allow the ecm wire to be energized. my guess is the dyna ECM is bypassing something inside and energizing coils when in neutral. both ecms get power in multiple connections, not just the from the ig switch. leaving neutral may shift internally to circuitry that is not powered(?) and engine dies. that could also explain why the stock ecm and the dyna act differently (architecture and stock would not fire engine).
        __
        anyway.
        It’s an easy check and if you got power, then you can rule out my problem. If u don’t have power, then there is at least part of your problem. spin the disk 180. I would also temporarily put the original computer back in to confirm all is fixed.

        the book will tell you what the pin connections are. that tells you where they go, and when the wire should be energized as u rotate thru the key positions.

        Your looking for all three wires from the ig switch to be hot when ig switch turned on.
        I would find the puter connector on the blk and blue wire, and test continuity from it back to the ig switch pigtail connector. connector to connector gets everything in between.

        So your issue only partly mirrors mine. mostly acting the same, except for restarting after 45 min. that sounds more heat related, however the carb heater/sensor shouldn't shut down your engine, right? I don't know as I got rid of mine a couple years later. I shifted to the 42 and it doesn't use a heater.

        MidnightRide mentioned side stand and there is a diode in that mess for 2003 and below years. if that diode went bad, that could cause part of your issue. unfortunately, diodes don't typically heal after 45 min, diode tests are in the manual.

        if u still have the same issue and the ig switch test passed, u can just work u're way down stream looking at the other affected circuits: starter relay, kill, stand, and clutch, heater switches diodes, etc. but without knowing the status of the ignition switch ecm wire and when it's energizing, u could just be chasing a ghost. (ask me how I know)

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        • #25
          Tekdiver609, thanks for the valuable info. No, no chugging, just dies. I've noticed my neutral lights sometimes stays on when in 1st. gear, and sometimes doesn't light up when in neutral. other times she works as it should. Can't believe Yamaha couldn't engineer the neutral switch to be replaced without taking the case apart. Gonna check the bikes grounds and make sure they're making a solid contact. took off the kickstand switch today and cleaned it up and lubed the shaft on the switch. Thanks Again

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          • #26
            Well, I first noticed that my clutch switch wasn't attached. This is totally my bad, as I had installed it when I first got it last week., but before I rode, I noticed the clutch lever was way up, so in order to make it easier, I disconnected the switch to have a little bit more space. Well, after getting the lever and mirror to my liking, I freaking forgot to attach the clutch switch coupler. (what an idiot! Duh!) anyway yesterday I attached the clutch switch., removed the kickstand switch and cleaned it lube the shaft in the switch, and put it back together. Checked the ground, and took off the cable on the neutral switch, saw no problem and reattached it. Today I took her out for a ride. have a local loop of about 6 miles, not to far from the house, just in case I have to get the trailer again. Well, glad to say she rode like a Champ! right at the 3 to 4 miles, I basically had my nuts in my throat waiting for her to die on me. Nothing! I ended up taking for a 7 mile ride no issues. I did notice one thing different, now the neutral light stays on constant, which doesn't bother me a bit. Before she would go on and off when she wanted. So, it could of been a combination of a couple of things. Me not attaching the clutch switch after adjusting lever and mirror, cleaning the kickstand switch and disconnecting and reconnecting the neutral wire. I want to thank all of you who chimed in to help., you guys are the best.

            Comment


            • MidnightRide
              MidnightRide commented
              Editing a comment
              Lots of electronics to jumble up there, but good that you're riding now. Take a longer ride, such as doing your short route 2-3 times.

              I'm thinking cleaning/lubing the kickstand switch made a difference. It may have been sticking, bouncing on and off.

              Also, sounds like that neutral switch may be simple. Are you sure the wires are all attached/cleaned correctly? I've never had mine off, but the fact that it's on all the time now says that something has changed. If there's a plug there, clean it really good to make sure the contact points are clean and making a good connection. Someone else will know better than I on this one.

              Good luck, and happy riding! CONGRATS!!

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