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  • Carb Problem?

    --

    First off, I don't know what the jet sizes are in my carb. They were set before I purchased the bike supposedly for higher elevation riding with air cleaner and exhaust mods. I have ridden the bike that way for around 80,000 miles without any problems mostly from 4,000' up but also down to sea level a number of times. I know I get over 50 mpg on rides on both my 2000 R*s when I stay under 60 mph, (even on my new 2018 Eluder which is stock) so I know it's not just a fluke. The other R* has a 162.5 main and a 37.5 pilot jet a mechanic told me when he was lowering the float level once.

    Anyway, I pressure washed this one as I have done 100 times in the last ten years, but upon starting it ran really rough. Would hardly run. I thought I just had some water in the air cleaner. The next day I rode 150 miles and it ran better but still backfires easily every time I back off and coughs and sputters off idle up to about 1500 rpm (guess). I can't turn the idle up as the knob won't turn in though the idle is probably loping at 700 rpm (guess). It will run smoother if I keep the enricher out a ways, which suggests to me a fuel mixture problem, but why only starting this one time after pressure washing?

    Could I have gotten moisture in something else around the engine that won't dry out even after a week? Today's 50 mile ride was the same sputtering. I'd mess around with the carb like a lot of you guys do, but I never have as, in truth, I've been afraid to work on anything inside the engine. Any thoughts?

    --

  • #2
    did you blow the rubber cap / hose off the top nipple (AIS) of the intake manifold?

    Comment


    • #3
      Your idle is too low at 700. Should be 900 for adequate oil pressure and off idle acceleration. Put a tarp over it and a light bulb under it all night to dry things out. Don’t pressure wash it again. You may have been lucky in the past. Add a heavy dose of Seafoam to the fuel to deal with any water that may have gotten in the tank.
      “The West is the Best" - Jim Morrison

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by davej View Post
        did you blow the rubber cap / hose off the top nipple (AIS) of the intake manifold?
        --

        Do I need to pull the air cleaner to see the nipple?

        --

        Comment


        • #5
          You might take a look at the coasting enriching cover for cracks or being broken.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Shores View Post
            Your idle is too low at 700. Should be 900 for adequate oil pressure and off idle acceleration. Put a tarp over it and a light bulb under it all night to dry things out. Don’t pressure wash it again. You may have been lucky in the past. Add a heavy dose of Seafoam to the fuel to deal with any water that may have gotten in the tank.
            --

            I can get some Seafoam tomorrow. It's been a week, I would have thought most anything on the surface would have dried by now. Like with the old cars, you could get moisture in a distributor cap and have it stay for a long time. Could that happen to some part on the bike?

            I would like to crank the rpm's up on idle, but the knob won't turn with just fingers. Will it break if forced with a screwdriver or does it just need to have some WD shot into the base?

            --

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by RonK View Post

              --

              Do I need to pull the air cleaner to see the nipple?

              --
              Probably unless you are pumpless then you should be able to see in there from the left side where the fuel pump was. You should aslo spray some penetrating oil on the idle adjuster cable threads to free it up so it can be adjusted.

              1 more thing, there should only be a rubber cap on the nipple if the AIS is disconnected if it is on there look for cracks in it. If AIS is still on the bike it should be a rubber vacuum line on the nipple.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by RonK View Post
                --

                First off, I don't know what the jet sizes are in my carb. They were set before I purchased the bike supposedly for higher elevation riding with air cleaner and exhaust mods. I have ridden the bike that way for around 80,000 miles without any problems mostly from 4,000' up but also down to sea level a number of times. I know I get over 50 mpg on rides on both my 2000 R*s when I stay under 60 mph, (even on my new 2018 Eluder which is stock) so I know it's not just a fluke. The other R* has a 162.5 main and a 37.5 pilot jet a mechanic told me when he was lowering the float level once.

                Anyway, I pressure washed this one as I have done 100 times in the last ten years, but upon starting it ran really rough. Would hardly run. I thought I just had some water in the air cleaner. The next day I rode 150 miles and it ran better but still backfires easily every time I back off and coughs and sputters off idle up to about 1500 rpm (guess). I can't turn the idle up as the knob won't turn in though the idle is probably loping at 700 rpm (guess). It will run smoother if I keep the enricher out a ways, which suggests to me a fuel mixture problem, but why only starting this one time after pressure washing?

                Could I have gotten moisture in something else around the engine that won't dry out even after a week? Today's 50 mile ride was the same sputtering. I'd mess around with the carb like a lot of you guys do, but I never have as, in truth, I've been afraid to work on anything inside the engine. Any thoughts?

                --
                ==========================

                If it was water related bothering elec items or casrb it would have either dried out in the wk since washing or been sucked out of air filter a wk later riding the miles you did.

                So with that in mind you said you have ridden the bike 80k+ miles which looks to be is it a 2000/18 yr old R* with no mention of ever having been in the carb because you dont know its setup/jetting and didnt state its ever been rblt either so with that said heres what i'd do.

                * WITH BIKE RUNNING 1ST CHECK FOR A VACUUM LEAK AT INTAKE TO HEAD SEALS,INTAKE TO CARB SEALS,INTAKE ITSELF AND IF APPLICABLE
                RUBBER CAP ON INTAKE PORT NIPPLE.

                If you find any vacuum leaks in those areas correct it.

                * Could also check to ensure you didnt accedentially get a bad dose of gas someplace or didnt get water into fuel tank when washing which could cause runability issues too and is found correct it too.

                * Then if after correcting any vacuum leaks if found and motor still isnt back to normal still requiring some cold start enrichment application to run better coming off idle then with 80k+ miles/18yrs on your bikes carb that looks to have never been rblt you could try checking accell pump adj & adj idle/pms etc to see if you can improve perf enough to be back to normal.

                But i would bet the with 80k miles/18+yrs on that carb its time for a complete carb overhaul including all rubber,diaphram parts,needle & seat,coast enrichment mechanism,all gaskets,new fuel filter and maybe even new float too if you find it's taking on fuel etc.

                Should likely replace jets too esp main jet & needle beacue over the 80k miles vibration etc can wear the needle taper and main jet hole so might as well replace main jet,needle & might as well do pilot jet too though just cleaning pilot jet should be fine but thats up to you.

                Scott

                Comment


                • #9
                  --

                  Removed my gas tank. Each side of the black plastic intake manifold has big cracks. Easy place for water to go in when washing plus air leak probably mostly when backing off down a hill creating the backfiring it's doing so badly now. I'll check threads on RSC for replacing.

                  Will I need to pull the carb off to replace? Can I patch the cracks? Any best places to get a new one. If I need to get a new OEM type, is there anything I need to note?

                  --

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    contact Rock River Powersports they are the sponsors of this site, A manifold for a 1600 is about $60


                    Joint, Carburetor 1
                    4WM-13586-00-00 4WM-13586-01-00

                    $57.53

                    That is from someone else but there is the part number and price range

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      --

                      Okay. So to replace the manifold, do I have to disconnect all apart the carb or can I just loosen the clamp going to the intake manifold, a couple of hoses and pull the carb aside leaving the wires connected?

                      Then do I need to remove the entire bracket for the fuel pump so I can reach the left side bolts holding the manifold to the cylinders? When ordering the manifold, I suppose I'll need some new rubber gaskets or do they come with some?

                      --

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by davej View Post
                        contact Rock River Powersports they are the sponsors of this site, A manifold for a 1600 is about $60


                        Joint, Carburetor 1
                        4WM-13586-00-00 4WM-13586-01-00

                        $57.53

                        That is from someone else but there is the part number and price range
                        --

                        Rock River doesn't have it available. Power Sports Discount had bad reviews. I went with Parts Pak. com.

                        --

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          For future ref Babbitts Online Yami parts is a very reputable parts source i have used for many yrs with no problems.

                          Good luck.

                          Scott

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