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REAR PLUG dry black, front OK

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  • #21
    Ok the needle float valve set . Check it for leaks

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    • #22
      ok, i did the svs cure, didnt seem to help, changed plugs, same. seems fluffy inconsistent low midrange, breaks up at high rpms.
      the rear 2 plugs have black on the metal rod part that comes out of the center ceramic , but not thick, , rest is all beige,

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      • #23
        im gonna go down to 37.5 on pms first. decide from there if i need to raise needle?

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        • #24
          the PMS is the adjustment screw on the bottom of the carb . Yours might have the brass cap still on it. That screw should be turned in all the way and then backed out 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 turns with a #40 pilot jet. the 37.5 that you are talking about is the pilot jet not the PMS. If that screw is turned out to the factory setting with a larger pilot jet you will be running rich in certain situations like at idle and pilot circuit.

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          • #25
            no, i have the knurled pms adjustment screw in place of oem brass , the pms and the pilot jet are the same circuit, right?
            it seems like it needs choke to start now , although it is 60 (cold) today. tonight i, gonna add a washer under the needle, see if it helps with wot. I never hit the rev limiter in all the years ive had 3 1700's, except when red light racing against really loud vtwins, i guess my mind knows when to shift, so i dont think its that.
            remember, i lowered the float level.

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            • #26
              The PMS is part of the pilot circuit. How many turns out is your knurled pms adjustment screw? All Roadstars that I have ever seen needs the choke pulled to start. Even after sitting for as little as an hour or so in warm weather They need it to start but can be pushed in almost immediately in warm weather after sitting for short periods and after a couple miles after sitting for long periods of time.

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              • #27
                close all the way shut, open till it runs good, , close til it lowers idle, open till it raises idle its highest, keep going till idle goes down, come back in between stumble lean, and stumble rich . i know, my other RS's need choke, i dont get it.
                the PO told me it was a race bike he took to the track, with this and that engine work done, , but all i found was really loud exhaust, and yamaha racing ignition, and non-mikuni jets, like he took it to the stealer for "performance package". there were no marks on any of the nuts that hold the heads on, so i think he was bullchipping, an older guy they call "poser"? wanna be ? im thinkin i had thew float too high, too rich, now i set he float to 4 mm above, carb on bike, on side stand, on a 2x4, which is way different then level carb on bench.

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                • #28
                  Set the pms between 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 turns out. Forget about that other method.

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                  • #29
                    ok, i added a washer under, starts without choke 50 degrees out cold, still breaks up at wot, not as bad, smells like fumes. so there is a PILOT JET, AIR (2.0)

                    239-14172-20-00
                    under the top cover under the diaphram. that is correct part.
                    i think i need to check that all the other air jets on this carb are proper, the float bowl jets are proper, ill check the air jets also tomorrow.


                    yamaha lists a jET, MAIN (0.6) 3G2-14231-00-00 in the bowl also, that must be an air jet? or is that the starter jet, a blank?

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                    • #30
                      The 2.0 under the cover is correct so is the 3G2-14231-00-00 that you list in the bowl. Starting with no choke is rich. You still haven't said how many turns out the PMS screw is? A 1/4 turn either way makes alot of difference.

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                      • #31
                        yes it is very close to that , i have the Baron Pilot Mixture Adjustment Screw , when i set float , it seems not have enuf travel, even tho it measured 4 mm above rear left seam of carb with 1/8 tubing method. im pulling carb off bike this week. , gonna check all rubbers and brasses. i have a spare carb too. appreciate all your help.

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                        • #32
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                          • #33
                            Originally posted by roadiemort View Post

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                            • #34
                              ok, so this is where im at : stage 1 exh, kn round universal , barons jet kit, 35 PMS, 170 main. 4-5 mm float ht on bike bike level left rear of carb. new spk plugs. now she will backfire single pop out exhaust on hard decel from HIGH revs. so now shes lean at top end?? runs well tho. no sputtering in mid range. not sure if open PMS will help up there?? oh and it needs some choke now to start/stay running when cold

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                              • #35
                                Glad to hear you've got everything else dialed in. Assuming you don't have any leaks anywhere, backfire on decel is usually a sign of a lean condition. Is it a loud bang or just a pop? Bang = exhaust or AIS leak, pop = lean. The typical solution is to dial out the PMS a little; try a quarter turn at a time.

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                                • roadiemort
                                  roadiemort commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  Won't dialing it out lean it out more?

                                • Doc_V
                                  Doc_V commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  In = Leaner Out = Richer

                              • #36
                                counterclockwise 1/4 turn will enrichen on RS carbs. i tried it already, we will see, oh it was a big POP. tks. see how mileage goes now.

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                                • #37
                                  Clock wise will lean and counter clockwise will enrich. turn it out provides more gas, turn it in lessens the gas.

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                                  • #38
                                    took it for a good 45 mile ride , smooth as glass now. THE motor feels hotter if i put my hand on cylinder head/ fins at speed, but it should be, keep in mind we are 88-91 degrees here now. if i need to make it a tad richer at top end, would i go from 170 to 17.5 main, or just add a washer on the needle to raise it up? what makes a smaller increment?

                                    makes me wonder about jetting on the other 2 RS's i had set up.ill go thru them next. BUT ONE CHANGE AT A TIME.

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                                    • #39
                                      go to a 172.5 for a 1700

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                                      • #40
                                        What needle groove do you have the clip on now? Where it is now will determine if you need to bump up the main jet to the next size. ...And I assume you meant 172.5 ...Are you running normal set up with a spacer and a washer under the clip? If you are, adding one more washer is like going up half a groove.

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