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REAR PLUG dry black, front OK

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  • REAR PLUG dry black, front OK

    REAR PLUG dry black, front OK, looks like gas foul, 04 stage 1 , carb with barons, and jetted per RSC instrux.
    i checked for intake leaks,
    how do we do compr ck?

  • #2
    remind us on your jetting? is your bike running OK? or is it running on just the front cylinder?

    Comment


    • jd750ace
      jd750ace commented
      Editing a comment
      It IS an 04.

  • #3
    Sounds like SVS (sticky valve syndrome) to me

    Comment


    • #4
      Sounds like a slight intake leak to me.

      Comment


      • #5
        ok, 05, 1700 stage 1 exhaust (4 1/2 " holes and cones removed.); main 172.5 , 40 pms, 4th clip of five baron's kit, from blunt end, real mikuni jets, i took it apart today, after reading in jetting here at RSC , supposed to be plastic doughnut only under the clip, so i removed thin washer. this bike got poor mileage, except, and started too easy without choke.
        does the speedo assembly effect ign electronics, or just turn signals? i leave it off while testing.
        is that correct, no washer, only plastic doughnut under clip?

        Comment


        • #6
          with stage 1 exhaust try 3rd groove with 2 washers under the clip. the washer missing on top the clip won't matter so use that one as your 2nd under the clip. Also make sure the pms screw is between 2- 1/4 - 2- 1/2 turns out. this will lean it out just a little bit. then we will proceed from there if needed.

          Comment


          • #7
            first im gonna see how it goes after removing the one washer below? proceed from there. ? tks

            Comment


            • #8
              FYI The rear does run hotter, less air blow by and heat from front cylinder, so it's not uncommon for the plugs to look different than the front cylinder. But it does sound like you're running rich if you don't need the enricher knob to start. Give it a try with only one washer, but I have a feeling DaveJ is right. Also, there should be a washer under the plastic spacer. If you have no washer at all, I'd move the clip up one groove toward the blunt end.

              Comment


              • #9
                After thinking about that I think that will put you in the same place. equal to groove 3.5

                Comment


                • #10
                  I think the issue is the jetting you have used is for use with aftermarket exhaust and air filter (K/N style). Stage 1 is still pretty restrictive in comparison.We will have to do a little trial and error to get you where you need to be with the stage 1 exhaust.It may even take going down to a 37.5 pilot even though it is a 1700. You also didn't say what airbox you are using? Stock box and filter? stock box w/K/N filter? Stock box drilled to a poormans BAK or a Aftermarket style filter?

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    I think you're right about the pilot jet. I'm running a 37.5 on my 1700, and that's with true duals and a Hypercharger Pro. I tried the 40 but it was too rich. As it is now, I can't even pull my enricher all the way out on a cold start up, otherwise the motor starts stumbling from being too rich.

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      When pulling the enricher out all the way to start the bike when cold it will stumble after a few seconds and then push it in to about 1/2 way is normal.

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        all 3 my RS have KN 2 in thick, 2 are oval 1 round. all universal clamp on. regularly cleaned and re-oiled with red KN spray. not too much oil either where it cant breathe.

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Try the jetting configuration above to see where that puts you. I don't know if you have had a chance to ride after removing the washer but if that don't do it also change to the smaller pilot jet.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            ok, havent changed anything, except well i finally got the float level right, the one consistent problem i have is it breaks up at high revs, (not over rev limiter). actually backfired out the exhaust, that means lean on the main jet,right?, i tried opening pms, but at that hif rev, it dont do much.
                            i may just have had too high float level,.
                            i set it 4 mm above rear seam, back left side of carb on bike, bike on ground almost level 2 1/4 inch lift under side stand, using clear tube method, and ran it to watch it not fluctuate.

                            Comment


                            • #16
                              im posting this for a guy that pm.ed me ,

                              hey you need to go to the kn wesite for the part number of kn air filter,, i plum forgot. but i only pull carb to rebuild and clean if needed. otherwise., u can get bowl off with it on bike, take some practice. lay a rag on block , makeup mirror will allow u to C the 4 bolts, loosen the rear ones with a key first, for the right rear bolt . i have an allen key on a flex tool to get it back in , tighten with key. . the other three i can get with an allen key. be careful not to lose the small acc pump donut oring. u can swap jets, set float , also grind off an allen key to open float drain, or come from other side of bike.. only have to pull off gas tank to access the top of carb also.

                              Comment


                              • #17
                                ok, i have it all set up like its supposed to according to the barons kit. 040 pms, 4th clip, one washer and doughnut under, if i was running too rich for . years, could i have developed SVS? first im gonna get some new plugs , it still breaks up at high rpms, and seems rich at idle. should i go up a 1/2 on needle? i can always go back to 37.5 on PMS later.

                                Comment


                                • #18
                                  Barons needle clip on the 4th groove with the plastic spacer and 1 silver washer under the clip. 172.5 Mikuni main jet, #40 Mukuni pilot jet, PMS screw 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. This should be the perfect jetting for your bike. I still think that breaking up at high RPM's is because you are hitting the rev limiter.

                                  Comment


                                  • #19
                                    If the carb is off the bike check the needle valve and oring. May sound dumb but if it only partially failing you will get extra fuel you don't want.

                                    Comment


                                    • #20
                                      not sure what you mean, i just pull fuel tank to access needle valve tho. it runs well, a little fluffy 2-2500 range, 45 degrees this am, needs choke, but must turn off within 10 seconds, good accel, breaks up at highest rpms, really high, but not above limiter. since i messed with carb, i also replaced the brass that the needle slides in from a spare carb. the part #'s are all the same, but i will change that back too.

                                      Comment


                                      • davej
                                        davej commented
                                        Editing a comment
                                        He is talking about the needle/seat oring. The one on the float valve (seat side). The float valve is also referred to as the "needle and seat."

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