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  • Best Shop Manual?

    I found this https://www.kijiji.ca/v-motorcycle-p...ationFlag=true Then there is Clymers and online PDF manuals for sale. Any advice is welcomed. The bike is starting to need more than tires and breaks. This winter got to replace the clutch and adjust valves. What is the best "How To" type manual? The aforementioned shop manual vs Clymers etc. Perhaps a CD type manual vs paper? http://www.ebaystores.com/Midwest-Ma...x=0&submit.y=0
    Thank you.

  • #2
    I've not compared the Clymers/Haynes type of manual to the Yamaha Factory Service Manual (FSM) but since Yamaha built the bike i would think it would be the "go to" source for info. One of our members has a link to download the FSM from here: https://sites.google.com/site/tykesp...ervice-manuals If you have access to a tablet or laptop its easy to work with it right at your bike. If you don't have either of those you can always print off the sections you are working on. One of the benefits of the electronic version is you can do word searches for any topic you're interested in, another benefit of the electronic version is you can zoom up on diagrams which I find very helpful.

    My .02

    Cheers
    2012 Road Star Silverado S

    Comment


    • daveto
      daveto commented
      Editing a comment
      Do the online manuals have the updated torque specs? Or still contain incorrect information?

  • #3
    Thank you! Will get the download manual.

    Comment


    • #4
      Daveto,

      I was unaware of incorrect information in the manuals, can you or someone else comment on this?
      2012 Road Star Silverado S

      Comment


      • texasscott1
        texasscott1 commented
        Editing a comment
        There are 4 that I know of in the original '99 manual. The float level is incorrect, instead of 2-3 mm's below the float bowl seam it should read 4-5 mm's above the seam. The front cylinder pushrod position diagram is incorrect. The final torque for the steering head bearing is listed as 2.2 ft lbs, should be 13 ft lbs. There is a funny one - The removal of the rear master cylinder procedure states to remove the left foot rest.

        There could be others. I'm sure someone else will chime in.

    • #5
      The experts here can name more “updates” than me. Rear axle torque was wrong wasn’t it? I just know there are changes made to most service manuals. Now that my work gets shop manuals online the changes get applied (I don’t work for Yamaha though). We used to get new sheets to glue in or replace on our old paper manuals.

      Comment


      • #6
        No, the rear axle torque is correct. The torque is intended for clean dry threads. Make the mistake of oiling the threads and torquing to 110 ft lbs you'll probably end up stripping the threads.

        A good example is stated by NGK. Reduce the spark plug torque by 20% if anti-seize is used.
        Scott B.

        Comment


        • #7
          I always wondered about torque values and anti-seize, Is 20% is a good number across the board when using it on anything?
          2012 Road Star Silverado S

          Comment


          • texasscott1
            texasscott1 commented
            Editing a comment
            I don't know. All I ever used it on was the spark plugs. NGK states it isn't even necessary because of the coating they apply to the threads.

        • #8
          NGK coats the threads?!?!? Who KNEW? I didn't know that! I've been putting anti-seize compound on their threads forever!!! Never too old to learn something new.......

          Comment


          • D-Fresh
            D-Fresh commented
            Editing a comment
            A friend told me the same thing yesterday when this subject came up.

        • #9
          Seems I misstated. The reduction is 30%. - https://www.ngk.com/learning-center/...orque-settings

          And there's this from one of their technical bulletins -

          "For spark plugs with special metal plating simply do not use anti-seize on initial
          Installation; All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent Zinc-chromate shell plating that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head; Thus eliminating the need for any thread compounds or lubricants.
          Additional Information
          NGK recommends only using spark plugs with metal plating on all aluminum head applications to prevent damage to the head and plug. Metal shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from the main body of the spark plug during removal, preventing damage to the spark plug and or threads in the cylinder head."
          Scott B.

          Comment


          • #10
            The tech bulletin does say "on initial installation". I read that to mean that if one is constantly removing the plugs to check them then anti-seize should be used upon re-installation, just reduce the torque.
            Scott B.

            Comment


            • #11
              Well, now that there is a Double-Iridium plug, and I'm hoping that means both the center, and outer, electrodes... it being hardened platinum... I'll expect I'll never change a plug AGAIN!

              Comment


              • #12
                Rats. That link to manual is now a dead link: https://sites.google.com/site/tykesp...ervice-manuals

                Comment

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