Air Filter Help

[Weefatbob]

Hoping someone can assist, so fitted one of these to my XV1600. However there is a hose coming down between the fins, that looks like it is heading up under the petrol tank. When I open the throttle, I get a loss of power, so I assume it is pulling air in via that open hose, I am assuming I may need to put a mini filter on to the end of that hose, and maybe bolt on. Has anyone done this and if so what size filter did you use? Thanks in advance

[Lug Nut]

Those dildo spike air filters are horrible for performance and for trying to get your carb-jetted correctly. What is your current jetting in the carburetor? The hose you're thinking of is probably the PCV from the top of the rear cylinder head that would go to your original air box. Best to remove that and get a long length of 3/8 fuel hose and route it straight down under the bike. It will spit a little bit of dirty oil that is being evacuated from the motor. It this should have no impact on the performance of your motorcycle at all. Did you have that air intake on and ever working correctly or not? Did this problem just come up with you putting on the dildo spike air cleaner?

[Weefatbob]

So I am finding out....I have litterally just put it on at weekend and went for a run on Sat and thats when I noticed it, may have to get carbs re-jetted. Did notice some oil at pipe end today, so thanks for that advice

[Lug Nut]

If you have not had any jetting done to your car but we can tell you exactly what you need to do for your model year and modifications. Basically for air intake and exhaust you want to buy the Barrons jet kit to get the adjustable needle and You will need to order a separate Mikuni pilot jet 37.5:

CAn get on eBay or Jets-R-Us.....the exact part number is:
N224.103 For pilot jet (size = 37.5)

For 1600/1700 with pipes and aircleaner...
Needle 4th groove from short end with washers and spacer in stock position: 1 washer and 1 white plastic spacer below the clip. The spring and other washer should set on the top of clip not next to the plastic spacer.
167.5 main. (172.5 main 1700)
37.5 pilot. (40 pilot 1700)
Start PMS at 2.5 turns out and dial it in when hot and idle is set to 850-900

After turning the PMS screw out and the bike warmed up idling, use a tachometer, or listening very closely while turning the PMS screw in or out to find the highest idle. After you find the highest idle, turn the PMS screw out 1/8 to 1/4 turns. Your done.
If you have to turn the PMS screw out more than 3 1/2 turns, then change the pilot jet to richer pilot.

Keep in mind that your bike will not run as well with the dildo spike style air cleaner as it would with an open element air filter

[Father Pobasturd]

Yea, but they look so cool

[Jclevesque]

If you change intake with open type filter larger than stock, rejet is required. Exhaust only and oem intake, not required.

[Father Pobasturd]

When I look at that air filter, the first thing that comes to mind is, does it have enough open surface area to allow a sufficient amount of air in? It just seems it may be too constrictive for a motor of that size. I know with my K&N RC-1640, there's a lot of intake roar if I really crack it open. That tells me it needs to suck in a lot of air to be happy. You may want to try a test ride with the breather off to see if it helps.

[Sharpman66]

I ran that air filter briefly on my bike and didn't like it. It looks cool but lacks in performance.

[Weefatbob]

Thanks everyone. I have bit the bullet and put it in for rejetting as that WAY beyond my skill set, hopefully that will fix it.

[Lug Nut]

Well if you follow the recommendation that we have here on the clinic for jetting it will improve but as long as you use the dildo spike your bike will not run optimally. If you decide to change to a different more appropriate air filter and use our jetting from the clinic it will run perfect. If your mechanic follows a jetting that comes with your jet kit your bike will run overly rich foul plugs not get good gas mileage etc.

[Shores]

When you said you are putting it in, I assume you meant you sent it to the shop. Bad move! They don't have a clue on the jetting other than to just read the instructions that come with the kit. I agree with lug nut. Listen to folks here.

[Shotround]

The recommendations are spot on. I started working on mine early last year. Hardest part for me was getting the jis screws off the bowl. Prior carb experience was almost monthly lawn mower carb cleaning. I don’t remember cleaning out the mower carb back in the late 80s. Opened it so much since that I’m need to ask for bowl gasket source. I even pulled the exhaust to get a bung welded on for an afr sensor/guage setup.

[Blackegg]

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...DM-14561-00-00
I had mine apart so many times that it was leaking as well. I just replaced mine with this and all the leaking is gone

[EasyTargetRN]

I agree, there are strong resources on this forum. Replaced my manifold and disassembled, cleaned, re-jetted, and reassembled my carb this past weekend. Of course now there’s a small gas leak which looks to be originating from the engine side of the carb. Didn’t notice it while idling, only after shutting her off to attach the airbox. Was
told to tap the bowl in case the floats are sticking. Hoping that’s the solution, really don’t want to take everything down again.
Any other culprits that might leak on that side? Everything went back together easily.

[Tcontrol]

Depends on where it is leaking….
if you just had it apart and re-jetted…. Did you remove float?…. Clean the flaot needle…? Is bowl gasket seated correctly..?….. are the bowl screws tight…. ?

carb removal is straight forward and relatively quick on a roadstar…

you should at least remove the air filter and isolate where leak is coming from….

[EasyTargetRN]

Depends on where it is leaking….
if you just had it apart and re-jetted…. Did you remove float?…. Clean the flaot needle…? Is bowl gasket seated correctly..?….. are the bowl screws tight…. ?

carb removal is straight forward and relatively quick on a roadstar…

you should at least remove the air filter and isolate where leak is coming from….

I didnt replace the filter box, noticed the leak prior to reassembly and after idling for about 5 minutes. Dificult to determine due to location of the leak (engine side). Fuel collects at the base of the bowl and then drips downward. Everything was cleaned thoroughly, seated properly, and appropriately tightened. No leaks from the throat of the carb.

[Tcontrol]

The two options for you are…

a new float needle assembly (grizzly style if no fuel pump is being used)

a new bowl gasket…. Cheap insurance

i never screw around regarding gas leaks since the potential for fire can be very destructive….

Your bike… your call….

[EasyTargetRN]

Looks like the bowl gasket rolled and the float needle was a bit sticky, resolved with no leaks.

[Tcontrol]

Glad to see your leak has been resolved… i would still probably invest in a new bowl gasket (pinching the rubber gasket is never healthy for the gasket long term…)

if the float needle is sticky, your flooding issue may return at the most inconvenient time imaginable…. Seems like replacement would still be advisable since we are talking a potential fire hazard…

If we take care of the small things…. They do not turn into big things…. Preventive maintenance 101

Ride safe ….!!!