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Weak lifter???  I can push down one lifter easily by hand , while Adjusting valves

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  • #41
    When you say it's worn, are you just talking shiny, or is it out of round? And if it is out of round, you could probably get away with used, if you buy it from a dismantler. Those guys know it's in their interest not to send out bad parts. I wouldn't buy from a private party though, you never know what you'll get or why. At least with a dismantler you know *why* they're selling it.

    Sounds like yet another argument for using the proper spec oil. The PO cut corners, and got the cheap shit, and now you're paying the price.

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    • #42
      Originally posted by Duke View Post
      Hydraulic lifters are self adjusting. As of the rocker arm adjustment, (no valve adjustments), the rocker fingers are to be synchronized to be pushing the 2 valves equally. The adjusting screw should be gapped at 0.0016" cold, because the screw will expand laterally when it gets hot.
      Lifters will pump up quickly when the engine starts, as what Davej has said. It's best to pump up the lifters before installing them.



      The 0.0016” gap is maximum allowable setting.

      You want to get to the 0.0000” setting, or as close as possible.
      Attached Files

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      • Duke
        Duke commented
        Editing a comment
        Remember the adjusting screw finger on the rocker will expand laterally more than the non adjusting finger.

    • #43
      Then, why would factory list 0.000” as acceptable?

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      • #44
        All of the 1600s I've ran across shows 0-0.04mm, true.
        Thank you for pointing this out Bikerron.
        I, myself will still set the lash at .001" to .002", as I have done this for 18 years with excellent results on two bikes.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_2495.JPG Views:	0 Size:	923.5 KB ID:	113468

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        • #45
          Originally posted by Duke View Post
          All of the 1600s I've ran across shows 0-0.04mm, true.
          Thank you for pointing this out Bikerron.
          I, myself will still set the lash at .001" to .002", as I have done this for 18 years with excellent results on two bikes.

          Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_2495.JPG Views:	0 Size:	923.5 KB ID:	113468

          I just don’t see a 3/4” long screw expanding lengthwise with any significance at those temps.
          Attached Files

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          • Duke
            Duke commented
            Editing a comment
            0.0016" is a very very small amount. You might be surprised on how much metal expands and contracts with temperatures.

        • #46
          hold on were talking lifter housing gap. they are noticeably worn with scuff marks, looked like 600 grit sand paper marks, i could feel the oil hole edge . i found one for 70 shipped new. weel see how she goes. none of the ones listed on sleabay have detailed enuf pictures of the bore.

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          • #47
            The lifters will rotate in the housing. That may just be normal wear. Can you post a photo?

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            • #48
              Click image for larger version  Name:	thumbnail.jpg Views:	1 Size:	77.0 KB ID:	113487 there is considerable wear , a friend who was a GM mechanic agreeed its toast AND HAS PLAY IN ONE BORE

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              • Duke
                Duke commented
                Editing a comment
                If you have noticeable play, then I would replace the lifter housing. Lifters should be able to turn and move freely in the housings, but not rock at all. If the lifters don't turn when the cam is rotating, they will be wiped out within the first few hundred miles.

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