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1600 2000 year model, 1600 jetting questions

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  • 1600 2000 year model, 1600 jetting questions

    1600 2000 year model, triked, has V & H exhaust (medium to loud), has factory needle set , one washer under plastic donut. 165 main, and 35 Pilot, all stock OEM? runs great, but hot as a MF, probly been like this for a decade from PO. I am trying to get the champion exhaust parts , one local bike shop is a champion trike dealer, so I can use an OEM, exhaust, stage 1 , what main should i use for that? . what main should i use for the vance nad hines, until i get my quiet exhaust.
    tjis is my first 1600...................... Oh, factory air cleaner
    Starts
    11-17-2020
    Ends
    11-30-2020

  • #2
    Stage 1 oem exhaust is a pretty good sounding quiet exhaust. If you leave the stock airbox you should be able to leave the jetting alone with either oem or V&H exhaust. if you pull the plugs that should give you a pretty good indication of the state of tune.

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    • #3
      plugs are dark brown, but I can feel the excessive heat from engine. we finally have days less than 90 out, last nite 55 yay. and really noisy in the valve and lifter area, runs good and fast tho. while tank is off, im going to a a valve inspection, jack rear trike up, 2 plugs out, straw in plug hole TDC on compression stroke, inspect. may need to do lifters down the road?? i guess it takes a good day to do the lifters?
      when i pull cylinder head cover(valve cover), it show 4 dowel pins per. do i have to worry about falling in the cases?
      also found on p 235 of pdf of service manual, it states the number of each bolt, and their lengths!
      i ordered the barons needle. i can take it from there, but tks. i have a 167.5 main in my box, , so ill give it a tryEDIT IN THE INTERIM. im thinkin the PO ran lean with AM exhaust, AND gunked up carb. best to be a little on the rich side IMHO?

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      • #4
        It is always a good idea to be carful when dowel pins are involved. About the only place they could fall into that would be an issue is if they fell into the pushrod hole I don't remember any place else that would be an issue. They are stuffed into the dowel holes pretty tight but still watch close when removing the cover. On a 1700 there are only 2 dowels on each valve cover to rocker plate seam. I don't know if a 1600 is different.

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        • brianmac
          brianmac commented
          Editing a comment
          MAYBE 4 IN TOTAL 2 EACH side

        • davej
          davej commented
          Editing a comment
          yes 4 in total, at least that is what the 1700 has.

      • #5
        OK, just rebuilt carb, PO had a shop do it. they did well, good float level, new inlet valve due to flooding. cleaned nicely, nonetheless, i blew out all passages, i found the coasting enricher diaphragm SUPER stiff, swapped it out one from spare carb, and put on alum cover.
        I THREW IN THE 167.5 , and she purrs, like to do 60 in 3rd nicely. I cant get past the sounds this one makes, not a rod knock, or piston slap, either a valve or a lifter.
        lugnut said it
        Ifnit sounds like a jackhammer f**king a sewing machine....then it's perfect. Hate to tell you but it's more likely you did no good/caused issues by setting the valve lash twice. I know the manual calls for it but it is extremely rare for these motors to have issues/fail duet on valve clearance...

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        • #6
          keep in mind that it is a valve synchronizing adjustment more than a valve adjustment.

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          • #7
            Tks davej I get that. One rocker 2 valves. I understand the hydraulic lifters are different than a regular motorcycle valve setup. And the lifter kind of self adjusts, so I'm questioning why why do you say synchronization rather than valve adjustment. I know you pretty well and there's always a method to your madness pardon the expression

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            • #8
              All the adjustment is doing is to make both valves open evenly at the same time (synchronizing their opening/closing). The lifter controls and maintains the base adjustment. The adjustment is simply adjusting the 2nd valve to open/close at the same time as the lifter controlled valve. It is an adjustment of sort but mainly a synchronization adjustment.
              I have adjustable pushrods on mine so I have an actual adjustment on the lifter side to make. These things are very forgiving as far as the adjustment goes before any performance would be affected. performance is more effected if things are to tight rather than loose. but as we all know they can get noisey

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              • #9
                Valve cover bolts are different lengths. Old trick for that is to draw the outline of the valve cover on a piece of cardboard. Poke holes where the bolts go. Then pull the bolt and stick bolt in associated hole. Install in reverse. Works for me!

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                • #10
                  Thanks I learned that trick a long time ago back in seventies from my brother

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                  • #11
                    ok, got it off, with a trike, gotta leave one wheel on ground in top gear to move motor. i move the left wheel Counter Clockwise, exhaust opens, closes, intake opens, closes , straw in piston comes up to TDC, check clearance. i can get 0.05 mm in one, and 0.06 in another, looks like i need to sync. daveJ is this a reliable method for TDC, and valve adjustment? 0.06 mm is way out of spec. ????

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                    • #12
                      1i think I'm gonna pull cam cover like docV says , also. That seems easy enuf.

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        I just watch the rocker at the top of the valve to reach it's highest point. it is unmistakable. then make the adjustment to the smallest side of the spec.alot of the guys even adjust them to "0" lash, that is putting the adjuster screw to just touch the top of the valve but no pressure on it.

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