* Originally published by Curt on the old RSC & his personal website

Take the air cleaner off and warm the bike up real good the given it a little throttle and spray SeaFoam Deep Creep spray into the carb.
Do this 4 or 5 times until it almost dies the last time spray it enough to kill the engine.

Let the engine cool and take the pipes off spray the SeaFoam Deep Creep spray into the exhaust ports soaking every square inch of them and the valves as well until it runs out.
Stick rags in the ports and let it sit over night. Next day put the pipes back on you can use the old cooper gaskets or put the FelPro #23588 crush gaskets.

Tighten the nuts down and crank it up it is going to smoke like crazy and run like crap for a bit then it will clear up and run better.
Get a bottle of the non-spay SeaFoam and add a treatment to a full tank of gas (4 oz to a full tank) now run the crap out of it hitting the limiter in the first three gears every chance you get. Ride it hard until the tank of gas is gone.

Change the oil and filter now and if you haven’t done so before now this would be a good time to change to synthetic oil.
DO NOT put over 4 quarts in. Now you’re ready to start your rejet process so e-mail me then.
BTW check the nuts on the pipes often as they tend to loosen up because of the crush gasket they will finally seat and you won’t have to tighten them any more but for a while carry wrench with you and check the often or you will loose a nut.

You can buy aftermarket FelPro gaskets, part # 23588, which are typically available at better auto parts stores (NAPA , Auto Zone, and OReilly’s has them in stock) for about $2-3 each.
You can also get the FelPro gaskets on-line from Rock auto (best price and fast shipping). Some folks stack the gaskets: You can stack 2 OEM gaskets, 2 FelPro gaskets or 1 OEM and 1 FelPro gasket.

Your jetting is very important to keeping SVS away. I fought with mine for some time and found there is nothing better than a Dyno run to tell you where you need to change your carb.
I had my bike dynoed a total of 5 times over the period of a year and finally got it nailed down.
Depending on your pipes and elevation you may get t nailed in less. Feel free to drop me a line and I will try and help you with it as much as I can.

The Jetting Process
I know you have heard time and time again in the clinic to do the WOT test. I tried it time and time again and never could tell much. Your best bet is to start with the idle circuit then move to the needle once you have the idle done and lastly to the main.
The main is the least important as we all very seldom run at FULL throttle. You can set the main for the fastest speed once you have the other circuits set.
To set the idle circuit you can tweak the PMS and/or change the idle jet. To set the PMS warm the bike up to operating temp. Screw the PMS in until the engine starts to stubble and idles rough.
From that point screw the PMS out a little at a time counting the number of full turns until the engine starts to stubble again. Now screw the PMS back in HALF the number of turn you counted screwing it out.
At this point the idle should have a nice repeating rhythm to it. You know the old Harley potato sound. You can tweak the PMS 1/8 to ¼ turn in or out at a time until you get the idle that you should. You want a nice smooth rhythm now you ready to move to the needle.

I started out with the needle on the 5th grove. If you don’t have a needle with multiple groves and still have the stock needle you will need to shim it. (OEM needle only has one grove for the e-clip)
You will need to purchase washers from some place like a hobby shop or some place that has small washers like the ones on the OEM needle. Take the bike out and test it for acceleration, backfiring, or coughing thru the carb.
You want smooth acceleration and deceleration thru the whole range up to full throttle. Pay close attention to the range of ¾ throttle to full throttle for a drop off in acceleration this will tell you what you need to do on the main jet later.
This test should be done in 3rd or 4th gear all the way to the rev limiter. I moved my e-clip to the 4th grove after my test and then tested again. Depending on what you get on this test you can change the main up or down one size until you get better performance.
You can also move the needle up or down if the main seems to be good. I suggest a Dyno run once you feel you have it dialed in. A Dyno run will tell you things your seat of the pants and trouble shooting won’t tell you.

I found that my bike was running a little lean around 2000 to 2500 rpm but the tech said it seemed to pull thru it fine. To cure this I came home and moved the clip to the 3rd slot and added a silver washer to the needle stack up.
By adding the silver washer my setting on the needle was now 3 and one half as the silver washer is equal to half a slot distance. The Baron kit also comes with a gold washer which I think is equal to a ¼ slot move.
Without the Dyno run I would have never known to add the washer to the needle and would have run a little lean in my cursing range.

You may have to go into the carb a few times ( I lost count on mine but am known on the forum for messing with my carb a lot).
Believe me once you get it dialed in all you have to do is tweak the PMS a little for summer vs. winter and you won’t have to worry about SVS again.

Good luck on you project and HAVE FUN!