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Remove the two caliper mounting bolts (12 mm hex head socket)
Remove the brake pad cover (A black plastic cover)
Remove the Clips from the Pad Pins then remove the Pad Pins
The Brake Pad Spring lifts up (Denote that the spring has an arrow designating the direction of rotation of the rotor upon the top, see location of arrow 3 pictures below this one)
Remove the Brake Pads
The Caliper pistons collect dirt and this should be cleaned off to reduce the chances of it entering the caliper body and causing a failure of the caliper. I used a solvent and a scotch brite pad to clean the pistons.
Take a piece of small diameter hose place it on the end of the bleeder screw to drain the brake fluid into a container.
Loosen the bleeder screw and push the pistons back into the caliper body till all four are retracted.
Tighten the bleeder screw.
You can clearly see the remaining two pistons still extended.
Both sets of pistons fully retracted into the caliper body. Place new pads into the caliper body,
Important - Re-apply the Brake Pad Spring observing the direction of rotation arrow upon the top of the Pad spring.
Re-apply the pad pins
Re-apply the pad clips
Re-apply the pad cover
You are now ready to install the Caliper back on to the frame.
Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and fill if needed.
Re-apply the reservoir cap.
Place your hose on the bleeder screw and into a container to retain spilled fluid.
Pump your brake pedal several times and hold the pedal.
While holding pressure on brake pedal, loosen bleeder screw, fluid and excess air will expel from bleeder screw hose into container, hold pedal fully forward and tighten bleeder screw.
Pump brake pedal again and repeat process till all the air is expelled from the brake lines and the pedal is firm and not spongy.
Refill Fluid Reservoir and check operation of rear brake.
The Picture to the right is a set of front pads with 33,670 miles on them, they have plenty of pad left as you can see by the depth grooves. Both calipers looked the same.